172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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04-25-2013, 05:20 AM
#6379
reari
thanks. holy money butt. I just took apart the rear end because I wanted to see if the .5mm shim was under the rear holder.....well, the entire rear end literally fell apart. pillow balls, washers, spacers and shims fell all over the floor...those hinge pins are soooooo free that they made it a pain to get them to stay in place longer enough for me to get he holder, shim and read bumper into place. I really dislike how the bumper stacks with the shim and holder. grr, maybe with practice..... If I ever break a holder parts are going to be all over the track.......good thing I have some delrin pillow balls coming. if you guys loose the 2mm plastic spacer in front of the rear arms, aside from buying and entire parts tree, what do you use? the losi plastic ball stud shim pack?
ok, gitsum, I will run without the screws this weekend. I am really nervous about how loose people say the rear of this buggy is. I keep having sc10 4x4 flashbacks, lol.
ok, gitsum, I will run without the screws this weekend. I am really nervous about how loose people say the rear of this buggy is. I keep having sc10 4x4 flashbacks, lol.
04-25-2013, 05:23 AM
#6380
Hi,
As far as i know only this company at the moment produce them:
http://www.yaiba-racing.com/products/YRG038_eng.html
Ciao,
Lorenzo
As far as i know only this company at the moment produce them:
http://www.yaiba-racing.com/products/YRG038_eng.html
Ciao,
Lorenzo
04-25-2013, 06:59 AM
#6383
Pretty much any small issue or question you may have during the build has been covered here, so just search the thread if you're unsure. Car goes together great with no "fitting" of parts. Make sure you have a good 2mm hex, I personally pre-threaded my ballstuds after almost cross threading the stock ones. (stock do not have a hex in the head, so using a nut driver they tend to go in crooked, prethreading with a screw solves this).
04-25-2013, 07:01 AM
#6384
My "in case of midship" setup is almost done, I'm going to leave the speedo in the rear with the battery mid, I think the 40% of the battery and speed control are about the same weight, and this makes wiring much nicer. If I had an LRP comp without the heat sink, it would fit on the receiver tray, but it's a bit tall with the heatsink on now.
04-25-2013, 07:45 AM
#6386
yeah, I really dont want to get all crazy with rb5 parts and what not. I prefer to keep it all rb6 parts and keep the mods to a minimum. Are the pivot balls in the rear holder supposed to snap in or be loose. So if I put them in and turn over the holder, should they fall out? I am just trying to gauge the wear on the ones i have. everything seems snug and not clapped out when mounted on the car.
04-25-2013, 08:13 AM
#6387
yeah, I really dont want to get all crazy with rb5 parts and what not. I prefer to keep it all rb6 parts and keep the mods to a minimum. Are the pivot balls in the rear holder supposed to snap in or be loose. So if I put them in and turn over the holder, should they fall out? I am just trying to gauge the wear on the ones i have. everything seems snug and not clapped out when mounted on the car.
04-25-2013, 08:58 AM
#6389
thanks. holy money butt. I just took apart the rear end because I wanted to see if the .5mm shim was under the rear holder.....well, the entire rear end literally fell apart. pillow balls, washers, spacers and shims fell all over the floor...those hinge pins are soooooo free that they made it a pain to get them to stay in place longer enough for me to get he holder, shim and read bumper into place. I really dislike how the bumper stacks with the shim and holder. grr, maybe with practice..... If I ever break a holder parts are going to be all over the track.......good thing I have some delrin pillow balls coming. if you guys loose the 2mm plastic spacer in front of the rear arms, aside from buying and entire parts tree, what do you use? the losi plastic ball stud shim pack?
ok, gitsum, I will run without the screws this weekend. I am really nervous about how loose people say the rear of this buggy is. I keep having sc10 4x4 flashbacks, lol.
ok, gitsum, I will run without the screws this weekend. I am really nervous about how loose people say the rear of this buggy is. I keep having sc10 4x4 flashbacks, lol.
Also you might be happy with the stock setup to start with, it's pretty dang good everywhere. Best out of the box setup on any car I've had. It's a grat starting point to get the feel of the car. Also this car seems to be pretty responsive to changes unlike a few other buggies, making it a pleasure to tune and test with.
04-25-2013, 11:35 AM
#6390
yeah, I pulled the one off my 22 to try. worked good. my 22 kinda need a new gear cover anyway. sadly the kyosho cover is cheaper, lol. ok, the shocks. WOW so freaking nice to build. just like the old losi xx shocks. I am gonna run losi 55x4 with 30/27.5 for now. I have read the 55x4 is sweet. I might get the ae 1.3x4's once they come into stock. My front pin brace is tweaked a little not a ton, but a little. I am not sure if it is the 1mm thicker version. how thick is the upgraded brace? is the xxx brace better, thought i read it works. Honestly the pin brace design is a little weak. The plastic bumper is suppose to keep it on and support it I guess. I notice the previous owner was trying to put the Team Stock setup on the buggy. he even removed the 3x screws from the side pods. the only screws in the pods are the end ones. should i put more screws in? And yeah, avid rear wheels dont really fit. I used the locked hut on it, but it looks like it only threaded 1/2 way. I am unsure if the serrated surface will be enough. sadly I just mounted all of my tires on avid wheels for my b4.....so I kinda wanna use them. ok, gonna get back to the buggy.