likea45

iTrader: (2)

In reality all modern off-road cars share intrinsic things; like two sets of links for the front and one camber link for the rear as well as similar difs, shock types and the stock placements for each. I can't see how it's harder to setup than the other two. Having had a few B5Ms I can say it is a great car. But in my opinion the issue with both the TLR stuff and the AE cars are that after a few months the cars tend to slop out quickly. The Kyosho plastics and fit are to me, tighter and last longer. Where a b5m will lose its edge the Kyosho keeps it longer.

The same with battery modding can be said for the B5M, as you need to hack up the plastic to do it on that car. You don't have to grind the chassis if you don't want to. I just cut the side pods on my RT6 and it angles a bit but fits fine.

I'm my opinion the RB6 is the fastest 2wd car made today. It has loads of steering, can be made to drive easy or on the edge and setup changes are easily noticable making the car easier to dial in.

Leadfinger2012

Whats Up All,
I did a search on this and really didn't turn up too much so I'm throwing it out there hoping someone else has conquered the same issue.
How do you remove sheared ball studs from your aluminum hubs? I've used things like "easy-outs" working on full scale cars but I'm not sure something of this scale exists. Any help you can lend is much appreciated!!!
Kevin

dmcguire

iTrader: (38)

A guy I race with has these to remove stripped screws. I was very skeptical when he first told me about it, but sure enough he was able to remove a stripped screw in my chassis right before my eyes. Not sure how it would work with a broken stud though. I have two sets coming in the mail. Definitely something to have in your toolbox

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262102935543

oPAULo

iTrader: (10)

Is it in there with loctite?
If not try and exacto knife. See if you can catch a spot and thread it out.
Is the hub threaded all the way through? I've had luck with tiny carbide drill bits if you can get the drill started on center and not get into the threads. Usually the drill will catch and thread it on through. There is also left handed drill bits. Start it drilling and get it to catch and back out the stud.

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

just use a dremel and cutting blade, put a small notch in it so use can use a small flat head screw driver and unscrew it. You'll put mark on hub but it won't hurt anything.

steelers82

iTrader: (8)

I don't know if this is somewhere in the thread but can someone explain how to convert your chassis to run a shorty lipo sideways? or any pics of theres with the battery out to see where to mill the side guards. thank you

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I am not sure of a guide but let me try and explain how I would do it.

I want adjustability built in so I would want to move the battery back and forth. So I would go out and pickup a foam battery set from either the 22 3.0 or from the B5 line of cars. I am going with the foam because I am going to use the battery strap to keep the battery in place. If you don't want to use the strap then you will need to use double side tape.

Ok, now that I have the foam I am going to lay the battery across the rear of the car up against the waterfall. Now you will notice the two mounts for the battery strap holder to bolt to. Now it is decision time. Do you want to use those holes for that piece like Jared does or stick the strap into the rear waterfall. If you want to put it into the waterfall you will need to elevate that waterfall by 2 maybe 3 millimeters if you do not mill down the chassis. For what I am going to explain I didn't mill the chassis down because I didn't think it would be worth it. Sure the center of gravity will be raised but I like I said I didn't think it was worth it so I didn't do it. With that said, the choice is up to you. Back to those stubs on the waterfall, if I were to guess you are gaining an additional ~5mm of moving the battery back if you were to cut them off. Me personally, I left them on.

Now that you made the choice how to place the battery in the rear you will mark the side guards as far back as the battery will go. This will be your cut line. You will cut the side guards, inside of car to the outside, as much as it over hangs the inside of the chassis. So when you look at the bottom of the guards now you will see the plastic that is exposed and an area that isn't. The area that isn't exposed is what you will cut. Remember I am not grinding down my chassis and if I cut anymore then I will open up a hole on the bottom to allow dirt to get in.

Now take the amount of foam you want to use to allow you to move and place it as far back as the battery will go. Then install the battery next to the foam until you decide how far forward you want to move it. Keep in mind that you have to install the existing battery brace and still need room for your electronics. Once you did this then mark the side guards. So now you know how far forward to cut and how far back to cut. Then make a cut in the side guards that is parallel to the chassis.

Since I mentioned the batter brace I am willing to bet that there are no holes in the chassis to put the screws through to mount it. So if you are very handy with a drill and have a bit that makes 3mm holes and countersink you are ahead of the game. If not, I picked up part number 28145a71 from McMaster Carr. With the foam and battery in place I placed the battery mount assembly flush up against it. I then marked the chassis for future reference. You will notice that the inside holes of the mount, if you were to use the existing ones are right down one of the milled out areas of the chassis. Since that area is already thin I decided to use the holes where the posts come up since this is further out. In order to drill the holes I removed those posts and aligned the rest of it up against the battery and foam. I centered it as best as I could on the chassis and then used a center punch to mark in the chassis where I had to drill. I then used a small bit to make my pilot holes so that when I flipped the chassis over I knew where to using my new countersink bit to drill the hole for that piece.

With that done, I then installed the bottom piece and placed screws through it. Before inserting the posts I placed 2mm's of washers in the hole and then inserted the battery posts. This additional 2mm's gave me enough clearance for the battery strap to go over the battery.

The last piece of the puzzle is if you were going to secure the battery in place with the strap and use the piece like Jared did you will need to raise that up 2mm maybe even 3mm's as well.

Seems like a lot of work doesn't it. So maybe a couple of layers of double sided tape will work to hold it in place instead and just cut the side guards.

Here is a picture of Jared's car that I keep refering to.


Here is another angle. If you look at the antenna mount you can see where the plastic is no longer present and you see the chassis. You will be doing something like this to yours but just removing the plastic.


More pictures and his setup can be found by clicking here.

I am sure I missed something so I will update the posts as clarifications are needed. In the meantime, ask away with any questions you have. Make sure you take safety precautions when you start cutting plastic.

robbie_gtc

iTrader: (7)

I would say stick with the inline setup.

Coming over from the AE 5m series I much prefer the nimbleness of the rb6 and inline setup. I have 2 rb6's that I have been comparing inline vs sideways and 3 gear vs 4 gear on for the past 2 months...

What I have found is, with the inline batt I can run quicker laps and it requires less driver input to get around the track...... the sideways batt has a lazier feel. I find it does feel a little more planted.. but with that comes slower reaction time to driver input feels like I really need to drive it hard to go fast. he sideways setup is more forgiving and the inline a little edgier.

Myself I prefer my cars to be nimble vs docile. I found the same with my b5m running sideways batt aswell.

This testing has been done on a cool lower grip track as well. Running on higher grip tracks I would only expect the differences between layouts to be even more pronounced.

GIHOSU

iTrader: (5)

Sears sells a nice Drill-out extractor set, item number 52155. I buy American every chance I get.

glenng

iTrader: (1)

THIS ONE:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...p30104/p226189

RokleM

iTrader: (33)

What have you guys found for inexpensive .5, 1, 2, 3mm washers? Let's be honest, $8 for a small pack of "hobby washers" is a bit ridiculous.

RIchie-Peters

iTrader: (4)

These are pretty reasonably priced for getting all the different sizes

http://www.rc-tworks.com/collections...roducts/ta-012

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...k-8370/p456783

I found some nice serrated wheel nuts for cheap too. A pack of 100 for $3.09!

https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-De...?product=10683

oPAULo

iTrader: (10)

Searching for MIP axles!! Have paypal!
Both our cars are setup with pucks and kiddo broke an axle last night. I did have 1 spare but that's it. I have spares of everything else and rebuild kits.
Kinda upset that MIP isn't supporting the kits they sell because I have a lot invested in running pucks.

likea45

iTrader: (2)

I believe I have two axles with the dog bones on them that I'd probably sell.
Let me go through my stuff and confirm.

oPAULo

iTrader: (10)

Awesome. Let me know.
We're on a tight budget which is why I like the pucks. Outdrives just last forever. Stock Kyo stuff is expensive too. I'm looking at using Avid axles with MIP shafts.