172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
08-26-2015, 10:05 AM
If you're using something like the Exotek slipper eliminator with a avid/schelle spur, it should fit either car. Don't see a reason it wouldn't work
08-26-2015, 11:34 AM
I did some more looking into the differences and kyosho used the same part number top shaft for both cars and you can buy the RB6 vented slipper plates and put them on RB5, so I went ahead and ordered the Exotek.
08-26-2015, 03:51 PM
Just joined the club boys, picked up a used one and a brand new one. Used one came with some great exotek parts, a KO propo rsx servo that I couldn't pass up and about 3-4 extra of each part brand new. Jonesing to race, used to race 10L's back in the day at SoCal raceway in Garden Grove and ABC in Costa Mesa. My son just turned 6 and I bought him the RCT5M, hoping he has a blast like I used to.
Heard great things about this RB6 and I can't wait to get her on the track. Thanks for all the info in this thread as well
Cheers
Any advice for my first time building this car? Anything I should be aware of?
Heard great things about this RB6 and I can't wait to get her on the track. Thanks for all the info in this thread as well
CheersAny advice for my first time building this car? Anything I should be aware of?
08-27-2015, 07:07 PM
well guys i found one in france and as soon as i get the paypal address it is on its way.. i know its not really pertaining to this forum but im super stoked and cant wait to see it in person..
08-27-2015, 10:49 PM
Do any of you guys still run the avid rear axles? Wondered if there was ever a fix for the rear wheels binding??
08-28-2015, 09:02 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
A couple lessons learned:
- Install your steering rack so it points backwards
- Tebo's setups are typically a great starting point (for my track at least)
- Put grub screws in extra holes (Rear Plastic Hubs, Rear center brace, F shock tower)
- Shim your axles correctly (you can shim to different wheel sets too).
Good luck!
08-28-2015, 09:13 AM
08-28-2015, 10:02 AM
I guess I'm jumping late into this conversation, but unless you run on carpet or some other high-bite surface, I don't recommend this.
The Schumacher KF2 (excluding the recent MM conversion) suffers from the same problem you are likely to encounter with this mod. Having the motor closer to the CG drastically affects the amount of rear traction you'll have on anything other than high-bite.
The further forward your motor is the less effect the motor rotation will have on the chassis generating forward traction due to a shorter leverage arm. Adding weight to the rear will help a bit, but not enough to to be effective and will only make the car heavier.
08-28-2015, 05:05 PM
That looks similar to the Dirtybits conversion, the DB6. I think the company is called Dirtybits???
I guess I'm jumping late into this conversation, but unless you run on carpet or some other high-bite surface, I don't recommend this.
The Schumacher KF2 (excluding the recent MM conversion) suffers from the same problem you are likely to encounter with this mod. Having the motor closer to the CG drastically affects the amount of rear traction you'll have on anything other than high-bite.
The further forward your motor is the less effect the motor rotation will have on the chassis generating forward traction due to a shorter leverage arm. Adding weight to the rear will help a bit, but not enough to to be effective and will only make the car heavier.
I guess I'm jumping late into this conversation, but unless you run on carpet or some other high-bite surface, I don't recommend this.
The Schumacher KF2 (excluding the recent MM conversion) suffers from the same problem you are likely to encounter with this mod. Having the motor closer to the CG drastically affects the amount of rear traction you'll have on anything other than high-bite.
The further forward your motor is the less effect the motor rotation will have on the chassis generating forward traction due to a shorter leverage arm. Adding weight to the rear will help a bit, but not enough to to be effective and will only make the car heavier.
08-29-2015, 04:48 AM
That looks similar to the Dirtybits conversion, the DB6. I think the company is called Dirtybits???
I guess I'm jumping late into this conversation, but unless you run on carpet or some other high-bite surface, I don't recommend this.
The Schumacher KF2 (excluding the recent MM conversion) suffers from the same problem you are likely to encounter with this mod. Having the motor closer to the CG drastically affects the amount of rear traction you'll have on anything other than high-bite.
The further forward your motor is the less effect the motor rotation will have on the chassis generating forward traction due to a shorter leverage arm. Adding weight to the rear will help a bit, but not enough to to be effective and will only make the car heavier.
I guess I'm jumping late into this conversation, but unless you run on carpet or some other high-bite surface, I don't recommend this.
The Schumacher KF2 (excluding the recent MM conversion) suffers from the same problem you are likely to encounter with this mod. Having the motor closer to the CG drastically affects the amount of rear traction you'll have on anything other than high-bite.
The further forward your motor is the less effect the motor rotation will have on the chassis generating forward traction due to a shorter leverage arm. Adding weight to the rear will help a bit, but not enough to to be effective and will only make the car heavier.
Rudebits, England-based, makes the DB1 and DB2.
Redworkshop, France-based, maker of the Stonem, B5M Low Rider...
The car on the pic is a Stonem 615 (RB6 front, ZX5 rear, 2015 version).
08-29-2015, 05:26 AM
The RB6 build is straight forward. At first it might seem confusing with all the Japanese characters, but it's a really good/tight build.
A couple lessons learned:
Good luck!
A couple lessons learned:
- Install your steering rack so it points backwards
- Tebo's setups are typically a great starting point (for my track at least)
- Put grub screws in extra holes (Rear Plastic Hubs, Rear center brace, F shock tower)
- Shim your axles correctly (you can shim to different wheel sets too).
Good luck!
Are you running at OCRC? Just curious cuz I'll be running at Coyote Hobbies which is an indoor clay track. Waiting on my lightweight chassis to show ups before I start my build though.
What do you guys think about the titanium screw set for the car is a worth waiting for them as well or just build the car with the screw set it comes with? Was also looking at a few of the exotek parts like the whole steering assembly and the front c hubs, thoughts?
08-29-2015, 10:11 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
Are you running at OCRC? Just curious cuz I'll be running at Coyote Hobbies which is an indoor clay track. Waiting on my lightweight chassis to show ups before I start my build though.
What do you guys think about the titanium screw set for the car is a worth waiting for them as well or just build the car with the screw set it comes with? Was also looking at a few of the exotek parts like the whole steering assembly and the front c hubs, thoughts?
What do you guys think about the titanium screw set for the car is a worth waiting for them as well or just build the car with the screw set it comes with? Was also looking at a few of the exotek parts like the whole steering assembly and the front c hubs, thoughts?
Drive Time > Track time > Tires > Setup > Everything else > Titanium screws
I suggest to build it as is. However, that being said... I do have the steering assembly, screws. Kyosho plastics are VERY good, and creating a metal car would just add extra weight and stiffness.
I prefer to keep extra weight off. Rear Hubs are the first and probably only needed upgrade as the ballstud will probably rip out quickly (that's why I asked to add the grub screws).
Kuya
08-29-2015, 10:21 AM
Coyote Hobbies is a great place to race and has plenty of traction! I do run @ OCRC, but I really enjoy myself at Coyote when I'm in town.
Drive Time > Track time > Tires > Setup > Everything else > Titanium screws
I suggest to build it as is. However, that being said... I do have the steering assembly, screws. Kyosho plastics are VERY good, and creating a metal car would just add extra weight and stiffness.
I prefer to keep extra weight off. Rear Hubs are the first and probably only needed upgrade as the ballstud will probably rip out quickly (that's why I asked to add the grub screws).
Kuya
Drive Time > Track time > Tires > Setup > Everything else > Titanium screws
I suggest to build it as is. However, that being said... I do have the steering assembly, screws. Kyosho plastics are VERY good, and creating a metal car would just add extra weight and stiffness.
I prefer to keep extra weight off. Rear Hubs are the first and probably only needed upgrade as the ballstud will probably rip out quickly (that's why I asked to add the grub screws).
Kuya
Thanks Kuya! Gonna take my time and start today. Gotta wait for my body to get painted as well. I want to drive now but gonna stay patient
08-29-2015, 05:07 PM
i got the car for turf only and this is the redsworkshop conversion but it is coming to me with this conversion and the rudebits db2 aswell
08-31-2015, 08:18 PM
I went 10.5, shorty, esc, Rx and servo in my Mod buggy. My shorty is inline backed up against the bolt-on battery stop. I have to admit my batteries were pretty warm coming off but I was certainly draining them hard to get used to the latest to get a transponder. After the 3 first packs it runs really well with dirtwebs at Cruizin, no plans to move it anytime soon. Time to try more tires.