Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Separately. I believe SC6 has it stock, but not RB6.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Tried Zack's setup indoors on turf yesterday and it was my first time indoors. It was great. I tried many different used tires left from the summer. Holeshots and handlebars rear seemed fine, rebar front. I also used the soft sway bar. Anyone noticed it's a bit too long? I cut it on both ends a bit. Mistake? Well anyways the car felt really nice. Had only stock springs so I gonna do that change yet. I had a new Tekin gen 2 8.5 conbo as well but had terrible cog issues. Tried everything, no relief. The motor worked well with my Orion r10 pro (own two rb6 cars). I guess I need to send it back to Amain for a change. Radio is a new MT-4S.
That is correct, the Sc6 has it, but not the RB6. Pretty cool they did that, just wish they would have done they on the buggy as well. Maybe that'll be something they'll do with future kits.
I wish I were, but checked it like 10 times and it was supposed to be correct, thanks. When I changed to Orion ESC it worked properly instantly. I did the connections again for the Tekin ESC, re-checked A, B, C wires, and it cogged. Tough. I tried changin wires it didn't work at all. Also setting the timing from the ESC got the motor behaving a bit weird on full throttle.
Could it be a bad / cold solder ? All wires seem to be attached fine though.
Could it be a bad / cold solder ? All wires seem to be attached fine though.
I wish I were, but checked it like 10 times and it was supposed to be correct, thanks. When I changed to Orion ESC it worked properly instantly. I did the connections again for the Tekin ESC, re-checked A, B, C wires, and it cogged. Tough. I tried changin wires it didn't work at all. Also setting the timing from the ESC got the motor behaving a bit weird on full throttle.
Could it be a bad / cold solder ? All wires seem to be attached fine though.
Could it be a bad / cold solder ? All wires seem to be attached fine though.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
I wish I were, but checked it like 10 times and it was supposed to be correct, thanks. When I changed to Orion ESC it worked properly instantly. I did the connections again for the Tekin ESC, re-checked A, B, C wires, and it cogged. Tough. I tried changin wires it didn't work at all. Also setting the timing from the ESC got the motor behaving a bit weird on full throttle.
Could it be a bad / cold solder ? All wires seem to be attached fine though.
Could it be a bad / cold solder ? All wires seem to be attached fine though.
If all the wires checkout, A to A, B to B, and C to C on the Tekin and it's still cogging badly, maybe get it hooked up on the Hotwire to the computer and check that you have the ESC in the right motor mode. That would be the only other thing I could think of trying. They guys I know that run the Tekin stuff are either running the motor/ESC in Dual mode or the standard sensored motor mode. Don't remember exactly what Tekin calls the standard motor mode on the computer.
Of course, doing what the above post suggests could always help as well.
Last but not least, you can always contact Tekin and see what they have to say. Their pretty good at taking care of their customers and know that stuff inside and out.
Thanks, I don't have the hotwire. Motor type set to bl forward/brake (setting 1 if remember correctly).
Yes, I did the recalibration in between and many times actually. Tried setting the width and adjusting the throttle midpoint from the radio, no luck.
Could it be the sensor port on the ESC ? To me it looks like that. Motor is fine. I'm consulting A-main from where I bought it a week ago if I can send it back for a change/inspection. But I will recheck the wires and soldering once I get home from work today.
Thanks folks for all the support, even this the RB6 thread. Like I said in the beginning I liked Zack's "3-hole" setup indoors
Yes, I did the recalibration in between and many times actually. Tried setting the width and adjusting the throttle midpoint from the radio, no luck.
Could it be the sensor port on the ESC ? To me it looks like that. Motor is fine. I'm consulting A-main from where I bought it a week ago if I can send it back for a change/inspection. But I will recheck the wires and soldering once I get home from work today.
Thanks folks for all the support, even this the RB6 thread. Like I said in the beginning I liked Zack's "3-hole" setup indoors
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Thanks, I don't have the hotwire. Motor type set to bl forward/brake (setting 1 if remember correctly).
Yes, I did the recalibration in between and many times actually. Tried setting the width and adjusting the throttle midpoint from the radio, no luck.
Could it be the sensor port on the ESC ? To me it looks like that. Motor is fine. I'm consulting A-main from where I bought it a week ago if I can send it back for a change/inspection. But I will recheck the wires and soldering once I get home from work today.
Thanks folks for all the support, even this the RB6 thread. Like I said in the beginning I liked Zack's "3-hole" setup indoors
Yes, I did the recalibration in between and many times actually. Tried setting the width and adjusting the throttle midpoint from the radio, no luck.
Could it be the sensor port on the ESC ? To me it looks like that. Motor is fine. I'm consulting A-main from where I bought it a week ago if I can send it back for a change/inspection. But I will recheck the wires and soldering once I get home from work today.
Thanks folks for all the support, even this the RB6 thread. Like I said in the beginning I liked Zack's "3-hole" setup indoors
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Glad you liked it,
I've been running the 3rd hold mod for a while now and while not 100% exact to what Zack and Kevin King are running for setup (ESC./RX/battery and some small rear end differences), it's been a very good setup for me as well. For sure made my car better than it had been.
Yeah, nice.
Was busy last night and hadn't time to investigate more the Tekin ESC but I got a reply from Amain that all issues are handled with Tekin directly which I will do today.
Was busy last night and hadn't time to investigate more the Tekin ESC but I got a reply from Amain that all issues are handled with Tekin directly which I will do today.
Is anyone running the shorty against the motor? I see most people running the shorty forward with the ESC between the battery and motor and thought running the shorty all the way back would help with rear grip. Also, is there a brass RF hinge pin housing for adding weight similar to the 22 brass weight?
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
I'm sure it's been covered but I haven't been able to find the answer. Does anyone know the pros and cons to running a lightweight car in a 17.5 class?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
Is anyone running the shorty against the motor? I see most people running the shorty forward with the ESC between the battery and motor and thought running the shorty all the way back would help with rear grip. Also, is there a brass RF hinge pin housing for adding weight similar to the 22 brass weight?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (68)
Think like making your car into a lotus Elise. Not very powerful at all, but that is compensated in the less weight it has to push around, so it is still able to be quite spritely.
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
I found the same thing. Also, i was able to drop about 20 grams in "wire weight" by putting the speedo in front of the motor. Handling and jumping did change regadless of the numbers being similar.
Have my shorty batt next to the motor with long wires.