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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-28-2014, 11:43 PM   #10861
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Separately. I believe SC6 has it stock, but not RB6.
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:01 AM   #10862
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Tried Zack's setup indoors on turf yesterday and it was my first time indoors. It was great. I tried many different used tires left from the summer. Holeshots and handlebars rear seemed fine, rebar front. I also used the soft sway bar. Anyone noticed it's a bit too long? I cut it on both ends a bit. Mistake? Well anyways the car felt really nice. Had only stock springs so I gonna do that change yet. I had a new Tekin gen 2 8.5 conbo as well but had terrible cog issues. Tried everything, no relief. The motor worked well with my Orion r10 pro (own two rb6 cars). I guess I need to send it back to Amain for a change. Radio is a new MT-4S.
By chance, did you get any of the wires on the motor soldered backwards with the Tekin? I know someone that had a similar issue, and that's what the culprit was. Guy swore he soldered everything up right, and had two of the wires backwards causing the cogging. Just a thought.



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Separately. I believe SC6 has it stock, but not RB6.
That is correct, the Sc6 has it, but not the RB6. Pretty cool they did that, just wish they would have done they on the buggy as well. Maybe that'll be something they'll do with future kits.
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:21 AM   #10863
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I wish I were, but checked it like 10 times and it was supposed to be correct, thanks. When I changed to Orion ESC it worked properly instantly. I did the connections again for the Tekin ESC, re-checked A, B, C wires, and it cogged. Tough. I tried changin wires it didn't work at all. Also setting the timing from the ESC got the motor behaving a bit weird on full throttle.

Could it be a bad / cold solder ? All wires seem to be attached fine though.
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:15 AM   #10864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikaR View Post
I wish I were, but checked it like 10 times and it was supposed to be correct, thanks. When I changed to Orion ESC it worked properly instantly. I did the connections again for the Tekin ESC, re-checked A, B, C wires, and it cogged. Tough. I tried changin wires it didn't work at all. Also setting the timing from the ESC got the motor behaving a bit weird on full throttle.

Could it be a bad / cold solder ? All wires seem to be attached fine though.
you are re-calibrating the esc's when you swap back and forth yea?
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:34 AM   #10865
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Originally Posted by MikaR View Post
I wish I were, but checked it like 10 times and it was supposed to be correct, thanks. When I changed to Orion ESC it worked properly instantly. I did the connections again for the Tekin ESC, re-checked A, B, C wires, and it cogged. Tough. I tried changin wires it didn't work at all. Also setting the timing from the ESC got the motor behaving a bit weird on full throttle.

Could it be a bad / cold solder ? All wires seem to be attached fine though.


If all the wires checkout, A to A, B to B, and C to C on the Tekin and it's still cogging badly, maybe get it hooked up on the Hotwire to the computer and check that you have the ESC in the right motor mode. That would be the only other thing I could think of trying. They guys I know that run the Tekin stuff are either running the motor/ESC in Dual mode or the standard sensored motor mode. Don't remember exactly what Tekin calls the standard motor mode on the computer.

Of course, doing what the above post suggests could always help as well.

Last but not least, you can always contact Tekin and see what they have to say. Their pretty good at taking care of their customers and know that stuff inside and out.
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:41 AM   #10866
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Thanks, I don't have the hotwire. Motor type set to bl forward/brake (setting 1 if remember correctly).

Yes, I did the recalibration in between and many times actually. Tried setting the width and adjusting the throttle midpoint from the radio, no luck.

Could it be the sensor port on the ESC ? To me it looks like that. Motor is fine. I'm consulting A-main from where I bought it a week ago if I can send it back for a change/inspection. But I will recheck the wires and soldering once I get home from work today.

Thanks folks for all the support, even this the RB6 thread. Like I said in the beginning I liked Zack's "3-hole" setup indoors
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:51 AM   #10867
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Originally Posted by MikaR View Post
Thanks, I don't have the hotwire. Motor type set to bl forward/brake (setting 1 if remember correctly).

Yes, I did the recalibration in between and many times actually. Tried setting the width and adjusting the throttle midpoint from the radio, no luck.

Could it be the sensor port on the ESC ? To me it looks like that. Motor is fine. I'm consulting A-main from where I bought it a week ago if I can send it back for a change/inspection. But I will recheck the wires and soldering once I get home from work today.

Thanks folks for all the support, even this the RB6 thread. Like I said in the beginning I liked Zack's "3-hole" setup indoors
I think the setting of 1 should be the default correct setting. I know if the right mode setting isn't right, then it can be the cause for a lot of weird issues. Without a hotwire/computer to look at, you might be somewhat dead in the water. As for the sensor port? That could always be a possibility of being the cause or partial cause. If Amain doesn't get ya fixed up, get in touch with the folks over at Tekin and I'm willing to bet they'll get ya fixed up.
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:55 AM   #10868
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Thanks folks for all the support, even this the RB6 thread. Like I said in the beginning I liked Zack's "3-hole" setup indoors

Glad you liked it,

I've been running the 3rd hold mod for a while now and while not 100% exact to what Zack and Kevin King are running for setup (ESC./RX/battery and some small rear end differences), it's been a very good setup for me as well. For sure made my car better than it had been.
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Old 09-29-2014, 10:58 PM   #10869
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Yeah, nice.
Was busy last night and hadn't time to investigate more the Tekin ESC but I got a reply from Amain that all issues are handled with Tekin directly which I will do today.
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Old 09-30-2014, 08:19 AM   #10870
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Is anyone running the shorty against the motor? I see most people running the shorty forward with the ESC between the battery and motor and thought running the shorty all the way back would help with rear grip. Also, is there a brass RF hinge pin housing for adding weight similar to the 22 brass weight?
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Old 09-30-2014, 11:52 AM   #10871
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I'm sure it's been covered but I haven't been able to find the answer. Does anyone know the pros and cons to running a lightweight car in a 17.5 class?
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:30 PM   #10872
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Is anyone running the shorty against the motor? I see most people running the shorty forward with the ESC between the battery and motor and thought running the shorty all the way back would help with rear grip. Also, is there a brass RF hinge pin housing for adding weight similar to the 22 brass weight?
People will argue that shorty back is more weight, but I weighed my electronics setup vs the space difference where the shorty back vs short against the ESC, and its within a few gms of each other.
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:12 PM   #10873
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I'm sure it's been covered but I haven't been able to find the answer. Does anyone know the pros and cons to running a lightweight car in a 17.5 class?
A lighter car will tend to have better acceleration and a little bit more on the top end in terms of speed. It will also be a better transitioning car, and you will have better in air control. There aren't many cons. The only large one being that car can be a little less stable over rough track.

Think like making your car into a lotus Elise. Not very powerful at all, but that is compensated in the less weight it has to push around, so it is still able to be quite spritely.
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Old 10-01-2014, 01:18 PM   #10874
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People will argue that shorty back is more weight, but I weighed my electronics setup vs the space difference where the shorty back vs short against the ESC, and its within a few gms of each other.
I found the same thing. Also, i was able to drop about 20 grams in "wire weight" by putting the speedo in front of the motor. Handling and jumping did change regadless of the numbers being similar.
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Old 10-01-2014, 01:53 PM   #10875
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Yeah, nice.
Was busy last night and hadn't time to investigate more the Tekin ESC but I got a reply from Amain that all issues are handled with Tekin directly which I will do today.
Ok this is getting clearer. Tekin support sent me a link to a youtube video how the sensor readings can be checked. My old tekin gen2 7.5 gives readings where as the new one doesn't. It blinks only once after ESC put on. The old motor works fine without cogging on the car, too. Hope to receive a new sensor board to the motor to get this up and running.

Have my shorty batt next to the motor with long wires.
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