offroad dude

iTrader: (31)

I just looked up the price and WOW!!!! I'll just buy the cast parts!

SAMCRO

iTrader: (2)

I am getting ready for indoor season to start and would like to try out the mid motor configuration, but our track can be a bit dusty and is far from "high bite". Does anyone have a recommendation on a starting setup or is it a waste of time to even try mid motor on anything but a super high bite track?? Everyone at our local track is convinced it won't work, but no one as ever tried it either so I would like to be the first...

skhadka17

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone use the chassis protector on their Rb6, I am not sure if i need it and all the 8th scale guys say it decreases performance so not sure if i should protect chassis or increase performance. Does it even make a big difference in handaling

the big rc

iTrader: (40)

I run one on mine and haven't noticed any performance difference. It's so thin, not sure why you would.

skengines

iTrader: (226)

Gear diff from TSR.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TSR-Kyosho-U...item2a2e672e14

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

Do the MIP CVD's work with the Kyosho diff or do you need the MIP diff as well?

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

They work with the kyosho diff. I would recommend using the MIP diff as well, the wear on that thing is awesome, the outdrives still look fresh!

redskins

A chassis protector will decrease the performance only on a 1/8 because of many reasons due to the chassi sliding on the jumps. But with 1/10 it will not decrease the performance what so ever. Many people use them! Hope this helps

mdowney

iTrader: (21)

EDIT: Never mind. Someone on the B44.2 thread clarified that these are actually the new AE HD ball cups.

Is Cav running Kyosho ball cups and JConcepts Fin turnbuckles for the RB6 on his B44.2? I noticed the same cups on his and Maifield's C4.2. And I think AE just came out with new, higher-quality ball cups.

I'd ask on the B44.2 thread but I figured you guys would be more interested in this.

http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/u...alieri-cf6.jpg

http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/u...valiericf5.jpg

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I race with a another driver who is basically my speed, perhaps a tic faster depending on the day, and he and I both worked on our RB6s to get them as good as we could, me mid motor, and him rear (he did mid before though). He slaughtered me tonight in club racing because our track got a bit dry. Keep in mind that my lazer could still carve up the track and was stuck like glue. Other than mid motor vs rear, our cars are about as close as you can get -- both based on tebo setups, same pistons, springs, etc, and he was able to really push his car and fly fast and the whole night after the track dried out I just had to try and not over-rotate and baby it everywhere.

Don't get me wrong, I qualified #2, but he got TQ, so we both did well, but the week previous when the track was more ideal, I was running .5 second faster laps. This week, I was basically boned because of the track conditions.

Mid motor is great, but is at a significant disadvantage in medium and loose conditions, at least when there are a lot of direction changes, such is the case in a smaller indoor track. When the track was stuck, mid motor was dialed and super quick through corners, but loose -- just done, could not compete at the same level. This is why mid motor is marked as "for high traction" and is more popular in Europe on astroturf etc. Tebo just won the WC with it in mid motor, but that was a sugared "tires done in one run" track that was wide open with a lot of corners to carry speed through.

I am switching to rear motor before next week. Going a half second down in pace, when the folks around you don't, just because the track dried out a bit is a real bummer.

Wayne

Ostach24

iTrader: (104)

I have never heard of a sticker decreasing performance... its there to keep your chassis from getting beat up. I run them on all my cars and notice no differnce. When I put the de skid plates on my 1/8 I noticed a small difference it the way it comes off the jump bc it hangs down... other than that...

either you keep buying chassis protectors or you wear down the chassis and need to buy a new one and screws... eventually it equals out

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

Iv'e worn the anodizing off several square inches of more than one chassis with ZERO degradation in performance. Chassis protectors are nothing but a mess in an attempt to bling yourself into nirvana.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

I have been away for a while. Want to get some titanium ball studs for the coming season, I see amain has the 8mm nd 5mm ones. Which to get?

cnelson3

iTrader: (66)

.

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

Or try tuning for the conditions. Play with camber links and roll centers. Add toe. Take out some sideguard screws and get some flex in there for more traction.