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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-27-2013, 10:17 AM   #8281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
here for instance... makes it a VERY expensive diff

EDIT : sorry, just saw it's BO'ed... still crazy expensive though!
I just looked up the price and WOW!!!! I'll just buy the cast parts!
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:06 PM   #8282
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I am getting ready for indoor season to start and would like to try out the mid motor configuration, but our track can be a bit dusty and is far from "high bite". Does anyone have a recommendation on a starting setup or is it a waste of time to even try mid motor on anything but a super high bite track?? Everyone at our local track is convinced it won't work, but no one as ever tried it either so I would like to be the first...
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:27 AM   #8283
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Does anyone use the chassis protector on their Rb6, I am not sure if i need it and all the 8th scale guys say it decreases performance so not sure if i should protect chassis or increase performance. Does it even make a big difference in handaling
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:39 AM   #8284
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I run one on mine and haven't noticed any performance difference. It's so thin, not sure why you would.
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Old 09-28-2013, 09:52 AM   #8285
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Gear diff from TSR.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TSR-Kyosho-U...item2a2e672e14
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:45 AM   #8286
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Default MIP CVD's

Do the MIP CVD's work with the Kyosho diff or do you need the MIP diff as well?
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:06 AM   #8287
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
Do the MIP CVD's work with the Kyosho diff or do you need the MIP diff as well?
They work with the kyosho diff. I would recommend using the MIP diff as well, the wear on that thing is awesome, the outdrives still look fresh!
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:38 AM   #8288
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Originally Posted by skhadka17 View Post
Does anyone use the chassis protector on their Rb6, I am not sure if i need it and all the 8th scale guys say it decreases performance so not sure if i should protect chassis or increase performance. Does it even make a big difference in handaling
A chassis protector will decrease the performance only on a 1/8 because of many reasons due to the chassi sliding on the jumps. But with 1/10 it will not decrease the performance what so ever. Many people use them! Hope this helps
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:01 PM   #8289
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EDIT: Never mind. Someone on the B44.2 thread clarified that these are actually the new AE HD ball cups.

Is Cav running Kyosho ball cups and JConcepts Fin turnbuckles for the RB6 on his B44.2? I noticed the same cups on his and Maifield's C4.2. And I think AE just came out with new, higher-quality ball cups.

I'd ask on the B44.2 thread but I figured you guys would be more interested in this.

http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/u...alieri-cf6.jpg

http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/u...valiericf5.jpg
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Last edited by mdowney; 09-29-2013 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:30 PM   #8290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAMCRO View Post
I am getting ready for indoor season to start and would like to try out the mid motor configuration, but our track can be a bit dusty and is far from "high bite". Does anyone have a recommendation on a starting setup or is it a waste of time to even try mid motor on anything but a super high bite track?? Everyone at our local track is convinced it won't work, but no one as ever tried it either so I would like to be the first...
I race with a another driver who is basically my speed, perhaps a tic faster depending on the day, and he and I both worked on our RB6s to get them as good as we could, me mid motor, and him rear (he did mid before though). He slaughtered me tonight in club racing because our track got a bit dry. Keep in mind that my lazer could still carve up the track and was stuck like glue. Other than mid motor vs rear, our cars are about as close as you can get -- both based on tebo setups, same pistons, springs, etc, and he was able to really push his car and fly fast and the whole night after the track dried out I just had to try and not over-rotate and baby it everywhere.

Don't get me wrong, I qualified #2, but he got TQ, so we both did well, but the week previous when the track was more ideal, I was running .5 second faster laps. This week, I was basically boned because of the track conditions.

Mid motor is great, but is at a significant disadvantage in medium and loose conditions, at least when there are a lot of direction changes, such is the case in a smaller indoor track. When the track was stuck, mid motor was dialed and super quick through corners, but loose -- just done, could not compete at the same level. This is why mid motor is marked as "for high traction" and is more popular in Europe on astroturf etc. Tebo just won the WC with it in mid motor, but that was a sugared "tires done in one run" track that was wide open with a lot of corners to carry speed through.

I am switching to rear motor before next week. Going a half second down in pace, when the folks around you don't, just because the track dried out a bit is a real bummer.

Wayne
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:25 AM   #8291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skhadka17 View Post
Does anyone use the chassis protector on their Rb6, I am not sure if i need it and all the 8th scale guys say it decreases performance so not sure if i should protect chassis or increase performance. Does it even make a big difference in handaling
I have never heard of a sticker decreasing performance... its there to keep your chassis from getting beat up. I run them on all my cars and notice no differnce. When I put the de skid plates on my 1/8 I noticed a small difference it the way it comes off the jump bc it hangs down... other than that...

either you keep buying chassis protectors or you wear down the chassis and need to buy a new one and screws... eventually it equals out
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:09 AM   #8292
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Iv'e worn the anodizing off several square inches of more than one chassis with ZERO degradation in performance. Chassis protectors are nothing but a mess in an attempt to bling yourself into nirvana.
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:42 PM   #8293
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I have been away for a while. Want to get some titanium ball studs for the coming season, I see amain has the 8mm nd 5mm ones. Which to get?
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:13 PM   #8294
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.

Last edited by cnelson3; 09-29-2013 at 03:13 PM. Reason: useless post
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:13 PM   #8295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I race with a another driver who is basically my speed, perhaps a tic faster depending on the day, and he and I both worked on our RB6s to get them as good as we could, me mid motor, and him rear (he did mid before though). He slaughtered me tonight in club racing because our track got a bit dry. Keep in mind that my lazer could still carve up the track and was stuck like glue. Other than mid motor vs rear, our cars are about as close as you can get -- both based on tebo setups, same pistons, springs, etc, and he was able to really push his car and fly fast and the whole night after the track dried out I just had to try and not over-rotate and baby it everywhere.

Don't get me wrong, I qualified #2, but he got TQ, so we both did well, but the week previous when the track was more ideal, I was running .5 second faster laps. This week, I was basically boned because of the track conditions.

Mid motor is great, but is at a significant disadvantage in medium and loose conditions, at least when there are a lot of direction changes, such is the case in a smaller indoor track. When the track was stuck, mid motor was dialed and super quick through corners, but loose -- just done, could not compete at the same level. This is why mid motor is marked as "for high traction" and is more popular in Europe on astroturf etc. Tebo just won the WC with it in mid motor, but that was a sugared "tires done in one run" track that was wide open with a lot of corners to carry speed through.

I am switching to rear motor before next week. Going a half second down in pace, when the folks around you don't, just because the track dried out a bit is a real bummer.

Wayne
Or try tuning for the conditions. Play with camber links and roll centers. Add toe. Take out some sideguard screws and get some flex in there for more traction.
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