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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-06-2013, 10:25 AM
  #7486  
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Originally Posted by jackcarter3
You should've asked one of us at the track. You never drove mine when I had it but it was dialed. 4x1.3 ghea pistons is what everyone is using.
Yeah I know Jay,

Seems that most are of the guys locally are opting for the 1.3-4 hole pistons. Say the car is way better with them. I think Mike said he has the Ghea ones. Not sure how many run the tapered ones though. I'll get it dialed in.
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:38 AM
  #7487  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
Yeah I know Jay,

Seems that most are of the guys locally are opting for the 1.3-4 hole pistons. Say the car is way better with them. I think Mike said he has the Ghea ones. Not sure how many run the tapered ones though. I'll get it dialed in.
Drive ramirezs car. Everyone is running tapered.
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:39 AM
  #7488  
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Originally Posted by jackcarter3
Drive ramirezs car. Everyone is running tapered.
It's hard to get the right amount of pack with more than 4 holes in my opinion. Especially when we have circus jumps on some tracks.
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:35 AM
  #7489  
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The ghea 12mm rb5 are the same as the rb6 pistons right?
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:53 AM
  #7490  
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I tried the 1.4/3 hole tapered and didnt like them. I keep going back to the 4/55 pitons I drilled from blanks. Been running 35/30 oil and AE brown front black rear springs. Car feels really planted especially on this off camber turn we have. Everyone else seems to slide down the side of it while turning and my RB6 is glued.
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:37 PM
  #7491  
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Hello guys...I want to try the RB5 front axles UM506 and I was wondering if they fit right in the new car or I have to buy some other bits...spacers? How many and do I put them inside or outside the axle??
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:11 PM
  #7492  
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Originally Posted by Gitsum
I tried the 1.4/3 hole tapered and didnt like them. I keep going back to the 4/55 pitons I drilled from blanks. Been running 35/30 oil and AE brown front black rear springs. Car feels really planted especially on this off camber turn we have. Everyone else seems to slide down the side of it while turning and my RB6 is glued.
I found that the AVID 1.3 is the same as the 4 55
As for what I am needing is anyone using the V2 rear hubs yet ? I just put a set on my car and seems like there is not much room for the wheel nut now did I do something wrong?I have tried taking out the brass washer in center still not enough bite take a look and let me know what you think.





Last edited by paintchip31; 07-07-2013 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:20 PM
  #7493  
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+1 on the ghea pistons
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:38 PM
  #7494  
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1.3 = 55 hole.. more or less. 1.3x4 was the way I went. Ghea tapers. I believe I went with the same oil / pistons / springs that's listed on Tebo's 2013 Midwest Winterchamps setup from CRCRC. It was pretty good. I would start with that setup and adjust off it.

The inner hub bearing doesn't look seated to me... maybe it's just the picture??
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:59 PM
  #7495  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
1.3 = 55 hole.. more or less. 1.3x4 was the way I went. Ghea tapers. I believe I went with the same oil / pistons / springs that's listed on Tebo's 2013 Midwest Winterchamps setup from CRCRC. It was pretty good. I would start with that setup and adjust off it.

The inner hub bearing doesn't look seated to me... maybe it's just the picture??
That is close to the set up I am running but I am running Luke Richards really close.
And yes it is all the way in for sure! I changed rims they bite more but not as much as I would like there to be!
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:51 PM
  #7496  
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Will associated big bore pistons fit the RB 6 shocks?
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Old 07-07-2013, 05:03 PM
  #7497  
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Originally Posted by EJF
Will associated big bore pistons fit the RB 6 shocks?
Yeah. I tried 2x1.6 tapered ae pistons. They were good too.
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:22 PM
  #7498  
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Well it seems that the 1mm spacer that I am missing is the UM505B..the question is should I put it inside the hub or outside?
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:25 PM
  #7499  
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Originally Posted by nitroargi
Well it seems that the 1mm spacer that I am missing is the UM505B..the question is should I put it inside the hub or outside?
It looks like your bearing are not in correctly. Make sure you have the correct black plastic piece installed for your bearing size, brass piece goes inside hub between bearings
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:35 PM
  #7500  
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Paintchip, your exposed axles look normal, which means your bearing seating is just fine. You should have 1mm of un-threaded axle showing, and about 11 threads... which you do. Which means you have an issue with your wheel. I doubt your hex is seating all the way into the wheel (that's a kyosho wheel right?.. if not, make the switch). It's the only thing it could be.
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