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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-31-2013, 05:01 PM
  #5986  
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^^^^^^
is this what your looking for

KYOUM523
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay rb5
^^^^^^
is this what your looking for

KYOUM523
Yes sir, thanks for the help

Turbo
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:24 PM
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Hey guys you prefer Bulldog or kit Blade body? Cheers,
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:04 PM
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I like the,kit body
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:41 PM
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First time out with the RB6 this weekend and I must say its very impressive. I did break a rear ball stud so I am going to have to replace the stud and the rear hub. Is there a certain ball stud people are using over the stock? I have heard Losi but I am not sure exactly which one will fit
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:15 PM
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I dont run any of the black ones. If it calls for a black one I run the medium shiny one. I run them on the front bulkhead and caster. I run the long ones in the rear bulkhead and use a nut to secure it.
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:09 PM
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Default Ball Studs
Originally Posted by wild gopher
First time out with the RB6 this weekend and I must say its very impressive. I did break a rear ball stud so I am going to have to replace the stud and the rear hub. Is there a certain ball stud people are using over the stock? I have heard Losi but I am not sure exactly which one will fit
I switched to Lunsford Titanium ball studs, haven't broke one since but they are pricey.

Turbo
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:10 PM
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I have been running the J Concepts finisher body and its great.
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:22 PM
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What are you guys hitting to break a stud??

I liked the bulldog over the stock body slightly, the top of the cab has ridges - I dented the stock body first time i flipped. I also think the stock body looks a bit weird with the oversized cab. That being said I didn't notice any real different in downforce or balance.

I now have a pair of finishers to paint up for my next cup titles.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
Stock slipper pads are junk. I only ran the avid for their 69 tooth spur gear. Now that I'm no longer running stock I'm using the vented plates red pads and 78 t Kyosho spur.
If you had the avid, thought you'd just gone for the avid 78 spur?
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeyscott
If you had the avid, thought you'd just gone for the avid 78 spur?
Not a big fan, it works well, but it's loud.
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
Not a big fan, it works well, but it's loud.
soak it in water... it'll hush right up
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by silvalis
What are you guys hitting to break a stud?
I just bought it off here, got it Saturday am, and took it out to race that night. I cased a jump a bit sideways and snapped it. After inspection, I noticed the previous owner didn't have the balls screwed all the way in and there wasn't a washer shimming it up. I was surprised they lasted as long as they did without breaking
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbo911
I switched to Lunsford Titanium ball studs, haven't broke one since but they are pricey.

Turbo
Is there a certain length I should run in the rear hub? I ay just buy the ones for that first and slowly upgrade the rest
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
Not a big fan, it works well, but it's loud.
Shame RW Racing not doing them
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