172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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07-01-2013, 10:05 AM
#7444
I recently changed my Rb back to rear motor because I plan to run at an outdoor track, was running RM with narrow hangers first, then MM which is only wide blocks, this time tried wide block RM, and the car was really good, I beat my best lap by .3ths and finally got a 18 lap run in, and won the 17.5 race.
07-01-2013, 11:03 AM
#7448
Being that I just converted it I am running a short lipo straight down the middle with the Esc between it and the servo. I ran the receiver on the left of the battery since I ran the motor wires down the right to offset it a bit. I will be dremeling the side pods to run the short lipo sideways right up against the tranny this week sometime and test again to see how the car reacts. I was able to get it to wheelie at will in the current setup and it jumped great. After the mods this week ill see if it will affect the jumping and turning. As of right now I have way more steering than I need so I could stand to give a bit.
07-01-2013, 11:14 AM
#7449
Im running on a slick indoor clay track. I just cant seem to get hooked up, steering or rear traction. Anyone have a suggestion on a set up to try?
07-01-2013, 11:36 AM
#7452
Orion 2ktc. The most important upgrade is the rear suspension hangers. Also go to the 1st page of this thread and all the info u need is right there. Carbon fiber shock towers are just bling. Money would be better spent on tires and track time. You will love this car its definitly quality components, fit and finish. As far as building it. Just take your time and pay attention to everything inthe manual and to the fit and free movement of all assembled parts. There is nothing that you should need to jam together it all fits together nice and smooth like every other kyosho kit. Any questions feel free to pm me or ask here theres always someone willing to help out
Last edited by Orion_2kTC; 07-01-2013 at 11:47 AM.
07-01-2013, 02:33 PM
#7453
Being that I just converted it I am running a short lipo straight down the middle with the Esc between it and the servo. I ran the receiver on the left of the battery since I ran the motor wires down the right to offset it a bit. I will be dremeling the side pods to run the short lipo sideways right up against the tranny this week sometime and test again to see how the car reacts. I was able to get it to wheelie at will in the current setup and it jumped great. After the mods this week ill see if it will affect the jumping and turning. As of right now I have way more steering than I need so I could stand to give a bit.
07-01-2013, 03:34 PM
#7454
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Q: What are the rear suspension hangers, and do I purchase the wide, or narrow track width hangers?
A: The rear suspension hangers are what mount the rear suspension arms of the car, to the chassis. There is one hanger in front of the rear arms, and one behind. The one in front is marked as a RF (rear front), and the one behind the arm is marked RR (rear rear). There are two different pairs of hangers you can use, and you can either use the plastic versions that come with the car with the metal bushings, or aftermarket aluminum versions with the plastic bushings. On the RB5, they were a weak spot on the car. The plastic ones that come with the RB6 appear to be stronger. So while aluminum versions are not necessary, they are certainly an advisable upgrade if your wallet allows. Always run the plastic or derlin bushings when running the aluminum suspension hangers.
Wide Hangers: The wide hangers provide a wider rear track width. A wider rear track width does two things to the rear of the car: a) Provides a bit more stability over small bumps, and b) raises the roll center in the rear of the car - A higher roll center provides more roll resistance - More roll resistance means the rear of the car will roll less in the corners - Less roll means less traction gain throughout the corner. (i.e. use the wide hangers for more steering)
Wide Rear Front Hanger, KYOUMW514GM - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=1787
Wide Rear Rear Hanger, KYOUMW515GM - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=1789
Derlin suspension bushings, KYOLAW32 - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=2143
Narrow Hangers: The narrow hangers provide a more narrow rear track width. A narrow rear track width does two things to the rear of the car: a) Provides a bit less stability over small bumps, and b) lowers the roll center in the rear of the car - A lower roll center provides less roll resistance - Less roll resistance means the rear of the car will roll more in the corners - more roll means more traction gain throughout the corner. (i.e. use the narrow hangers for more rear traction in corners)
Narrow Rear Front Hanger, KYOUMW511GM - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=1791
Narrow Rear Rear Hanger, KYOUMW512GM - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=1790
Derlin suspension bushings, KYOLAW32 - http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=2143
Now, you're going to ask, which to run? Well, it is all driver preference. When I ran the RB5, I found the car needed more stability and a LOT more rotation, so I ran the wide hangers. But the RB6 is an entirely different animal. The car is super stable, and is super aggressive right out of the box. I personally run the narrow hangers to help lock the rear end in, in the corners. My RB6 does NOT need more steering. But, your mileage may vary, and most setups are a constant work-in-progress. It might be a good idea to run the plastic hangers first to figure out which you prefer, before you shell out a lot of money for the aluminum version.
Source.....petit rc
Last edited by David Home; 07-01-2013 at 03:36 PM. Reason: *
