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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-14-2013, 12:48 PM
  #4261  
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Has any one tried using the plastic R/F suspension holder for mid motor on the rear motor set up?
It looks like it has a thicker wall around the pin holes.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:53 PM
  #4262  
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Will work but might block the motor from being able to move forward.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:02 PM
  #4263  
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Originally Posted by Gitsum
Will work but might block the motor from being able to move forward.
I don't see that happening cause the R/F holder is in front of transmission on the rear motor set up!
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:13 PM
  #4264  
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Originally Posted by Nitronut3
Wide hangars with .5 hubs.
The choice of tire here is a Green barcode V1 and green barcode fronts shaved t o a little under half pin.
and where you running the .5 hubs w/the 6 arms?

i am looking to try the -1 arms next week but i'm really curious as to what ppl doing. im not sure if i would want less grip from the rear, i'm not sure if that would help because of how much steering i already have but i like to drive aggressively and could benefit having the rear a not as glued mid corner but still have the forward drive.

my times tend to drop when the track dries out a little because its looser and fits my driving style. if i could get that same feel when the track is being watered between rounds but not completely loose the the rear i'd be golden.

and it sounds like that's what this change will do..?
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:32 PM
  #4265  
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what are v2 parts on the rb6?
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:35 PM
  #4266  
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Originally Posted by t8rtot
and where you running the .5 hubs w/the 6 arms?

i am looking to try the -1 arms next week but i'm really curious as to what ppl doing. im not sure if i would want less grip from the rear, i'm not sure if that would help because of how much steering i already have but i like to drive aggressively and could benefit having the rear a not as glued mid corner but still have the forward drive.

my times tend to drop when the track dries out a little because its looser and fits my driving style. if i could get that same feel when the track is being watered between rounds but not completely loose the the rear i'd be golden.

and it sounds like that's what this change will do..?
No, ran 0's with the 6 arms. its not really a loss of traction, the rear end just slides a tick more in the corners.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:46 PM
  #4267  
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well.....I have a RB6 coming soon Nate
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:46 PM
  #4268  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
what are v2 parts on the rb6?
You mean, like after a running change? I have heard of the following 3

1. different chassis with fixed gearbox milling
2. beefier plastic steering rack
3. beefier shelf on rear upper bulkhead
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:48 PM
  #4269  
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Originally Posted by Nitronut3
No, ran 0's with the 6 arms. its not really a loss of traction, the rear end just slides a tick more in the corners.
Exactly what i'm looking for.

thank you,
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:49 PM
  #4270  
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thanks for the reply Brandon....my rb5 has been really good but I figured I have the chance to get into more current car so may as well...Im stoked to try it!
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:51 PM
  #4271  
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
thanks for the reply Brandon....my rb5 has been really good but I figured I have the chance to get into more current car so may as well...Im stoked to try it!
You know where to come for help and info! We want pics once you got it built and ready to rock.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:21 PM
  #4272  
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Originally Posted by Dirt Works
Has any one tried using the plastic R/F suspension holder for mid motor on the rear motor set up?
It looks like it has a thicker wall around the pin holes.
That is actually the part you are supposed to use for the rear motor config. That they sell it in a bag labeled mid motor is confusing. This part holds up well. The old thinner one will not usually last one run.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
You mean, like after a running change? I have heard of the following 3

1. different chassis with fixed gearbox milling
2. beefier plastic steering rack
3. beefier shelf on rear upper bulkhead
For 1, i will see if Kyosho can upgrade. For 2, i am getting alum parts. How do i fix 3?

thx
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:52 PM
  #4274  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
For 1, i will see if Kyosho can upgrade. For 2, i am getting alum parts. How do i fix 3?

thx
Easy, just run a longer ball stud, and put a lock nut on the bottom. Make sure you run the extra set screws in the empty holes, and you will be just fine.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:00 PM
  #4275  
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FWIW, all these are not exactly issues. Its way more durable than anything else out there. I started getting breakages only in the northern cal cold weather these past few weeks. Till then it was solid. Also for 3 I have the exotek bulkhead front and rear. My opinion is run the car, get a feel for it then see if you break it then replace it. If your buying used then maybe a good idea to upgrade stuff you thinks been roughly used and for that the steering rack is a must and so are the aluminum suspension holders.
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