1LikesTLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
03-21-2013, 06:38 PM
#6616
Guys have a weird problem, was out in front of the house testing a different motor and developed a weird clicking noise.
It happened after I power slid into the front lawn at full speed?? I have the motor/tranny out and it seems to spin smooth.
The stub axles were my first guess and they are fine. Don't know where else to look.
Thanks
It happened after I power slid into the front lawn at full speed?? I have the motor/tranny out and it seems to spin smooth.
The stub axles were my first guess and they are fine. Don't know where else to look.
Thanks
03-21-2013, 06:50 PM
#6617
03-21-2013, 07:17 PM
#6619
Guys have a weird problem, was out in front of the house testing a different motor and developed a weird clicking noise.
It happened after I power slid into the front lawn at full speed?? I have the motor/tranny out and it seems to spin smooth.
The stub axles were my first guess and they are fine. Don't know where else to look.
Thanks
It happened after I power slid into the front lawn at full speed?? I have the motor/tranny out and it seems to spin smooth.
The stub axles were my first guess and they are fine. Don't know where else to look.
Thanks
if it could be a warped wheel, try to balance the wheel,
is the noise on corner exit?
03-21-2013, 10:27 PM
#6623
Could someone help me with a setup question. What does raising/lowering the front camberlink ballstud do? The setup calls for 3mm but if I lower it, what effect does that have? Also what does unscrewing the front shock eyelets do?
03-22-2013, 07:36 AM
#6626
One trick is to spray out the coupler and the set screw with motor spray to clean these two parts and install it try (no black grease) and loctite it then. Then applly black grease to the joint after the set screw is set through the groove in the bone. Sometimes oils on the parts can keep the thread lock from holding properly.
so I will try the red
03-22-2013, 09:02 AM
#6627
I think raising (adding more shims) decreases front grip, and helps keep the front end level. works best for High Bite tracks.
lowering (removing shims) increases front grip, but in turn yields more body roll, usually better for low grip tracks.
I may have switched those, someone may need to double check.
unscrewing the eyelets adds more droop. its basically removing internal limiters from the shocks, but obviously its external and you don't need to disassemble the shocks.
03-22-2013, 09:05 AM
#6628
more on power, sorry, I should have been more specific.
the truck mainly pushed on an off camber corner and a drop off then turn left to the line, that was it.
but i think that was mainly due to tire choice (enduros) I think I will run the Blockades, I think they were better for this track.
rear traction is good, I have tried soft and super soft, both work really well. only when its a loose top layer (practicing, or on race days nobody wants to sweep the track) could I tell a difference. a lot of guys are running only soft compound all around.
the truck mainly pushed on an off camber corner and a drop off then turn left to the line, that was it.
but i think that was mainly due to tire choice (enduros) I think I will run the Blockades, I think they were better for this track.
rear traction is good, I have tried soft and super soft, both work really well. only when its a loose top layer (practicing, or on race days nobody wants to sweep the track
) could I tell a difference. a lot of guys are running only soft compound all around.More on power steering. You can move the hubs back, stiffer front spring, There are a few other things you can try but like I said it may effect the rest of the track.
03-22-2013, 09:19 AM
#6629
Just going to state the obvious. The car will push on an off camber corner. The fast way around those is to go slow and then the car roll around the edge. Just about any power you give will make it push. The drop off then left. Not sure what exactly that means but ask yourself is fixing these two corners that sound more like getting around obsticles worth sacrificing performance around the rest of the track?
More on power steering. You can move the hubs back, stiffer front spring, There are a few other things you can try but like I said it may effect the rest of the track.
More on power steering. You can move the hubs back, stiffer front spring, There are a few other things you can try but like I said it may effect the rest of the track.
03-22-2013, 07:25 PM
#6630
...here is a video showing my brother running one of our 2 new TLR 22SCT kits. I wish we had a third person to record the video for us, so that you all can see both kits racing at the same time. In this video, we are just using a Traxxas 3000mAh NiMh battery for testing purposes. We wanted to make sure the ball diff was not "barking" after the kits were freshly built. We are doing some changes to the track, so after these few videos, it will have a longer straight, as well as having higher/bigger jumps. But, here is the vid before the changes to the race track.
VID00035 - YouTube
VID00035 - YouTube
| + YouTube Video | |