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Old 03-17-2013, 06:07 PM
  #6541  
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im running the 2.5 lrc toe
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:26 PM
  #6542  
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Originally Posted by TheBackmarker
Don't know about the SCTE ends but I'll tell you what does work well. I've posted this before, but things can get lost with over 4,000 posts on this thread. TRA3643 fit perfectly. They come with the tie rods and captured ends already assembled. You will also need four M3x12 screws to attach them. They do not limit travel in either direction and have been working for me and dozens of my customers for a couple months now. These are camber links for the Rustler and Stampede, so you know they can take a beating!
What is the TLR part #s for the M3x12 screws?
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:03 PM
  #6543  
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Originally Posted by kmags
Do yourself a favor and buy a gear diff. Losi part #LOSA2954. They are bulletproof, consistent, require no break-in, smooth as silk and leak very little (mine doesn't leak at all). (recommend 5k-10k oil) I service mine once a year whether it needs it or not. Complete diff cost less than a good Bfast rebuild kit. Most people say that a ball diff performs better but 98% of people won't notice the difference.
does the gear diff Losi part #LOSA2954 already come with diff oil in it when purchased new? Or, do I need to put in some diff oil in myself, when I get it out of its packaging?
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:16 PM
  #6544  
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Originally Posted by ussprinceton
does the gear diff Losi part #LOSA2954 already come with diff oil in it when purchased new? Or, do I need to put in some diff oil in myself, when I get it out of its packaging?
It's does come filled with fluid but I don't know exactly what weight. 1000 I think.
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ussprinceton
TLR should start making all metal transmission gears for the 22SCT. If not TLR, then some other aftermarket company. That way, we will have a choice of either running all metal transmission gears, or plastic, for those who want to stick with plastic.
Metal gears would add a TON of rotating mass to expect the motor to pull, added weight is ok since that is chassis weight but added mass in the drivetrain would make it accelerate much slower, esp in stock classes. Motor heat would be an issue also!

Originally Posted by losiracer120
still burning up/melting slipper pads to the spur gear and ive done everything i could to figure out why this is happening and ive even rebuilt the tranny following the instructions to ensure everything was there.... not sure what to do
I was not impressed with the stock slipper also, went to the Triad and it was night and day different, WAY better now with the triad!
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:01 PM
  #6546  
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Originally Posted by SRC_DRIVER
Looking for a good outdoor setup. Ran the stock setup yesterday and the truck just didnt feel "in" the track. On power was loose with a 17.5. I had to be easy on power. Also I couldnt seem to keep the front end down on the jumps. I typically backside all the jumps but I kept floating the nose yesterday even after adding 1.25oz. if lead in front of the body posts..

Very flustrated with the truck after yesterdays performance. Normally a contender for the win but I barley made the a-main and was about a lap and half off. 40 sec lap times.. SO I was way off.

Also track was loosely packed clay. My 22 buggy had great traction but the 22 SCT was JUNK!

Thanks,
So one day with the car running the kit setup and the car is junk?

Here are a lot of setups you can try out to get you closer to something that may work for you and your track conditions. 2wd SC will not handle anything like a 2wd buggy EVER.

Originally Posted by ussprinceton
What is the TLR part #s for the M3x12 screws?
TLR has a search function on there web site!

http://www.tlracing.com/Search/Defau...chTerm=m3+X+12

Originally Posted by thecman26
Metal gears would add a TON of rotating mass to expect the motor to pull, added weight is ok since that is chassis weight but added mass in the drivetrain would make it accelerate much slower, esp in stock classes. Motor heat would be an issue also!



I was not impressed with the stock slipper also, went to the Triad and it was night and day different, WAY better now with the triad!
I don't have a 22 gear diff but I did weight the XXX ball and the XXX gear diff and they were VERY close to the same weight. You may be surprised on the weight difference between the two. My issue with 2wd gear diffs is they heat up and change there settings through the run. Ball diffs are much more consistant.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:39 PM
  #6547  
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Originally Posted by thecman26
Metal gears would add a TON of rotating mass to expect the motor to pull, added weight is ok since that is chassis weight but added mass in the drivetrain would make it accelerate much slower, esp in stock classes. Motor heat would be an issue also!



I was not impressed with the stock slipper also, went to the Triad and it was night and day different, WAY better now with the triad!
the avid slipper is just amazing especially with mod motors,makes the car so much easier to drive,kinda like feels like cheating
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:37 PM
  #6548  
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Originally Posted by Casper
I don't have a 22 gear diff but I did weight the XXX ball and the XXX gear diff and they were VERY close to the same weight. You may be surprised on the weight difference between the two. My issue with 2wd gear diffs is they heat up and change there settings through the run. Ball diffs are much more consistant.
Very interesting. I've never heard that before. Gear diffs have been my choice because I don't like to spend a ton of time wrenching when I can practice more. How many sessions do you get our of your ball diffs prior to them requiring a rebuild? If I could get them to stay smooth for a long time, I could easily switch back. Thanks
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:43 PM
  #6549  
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why isn't the detailed Associated VTS slipper modification not included in the first page?
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:11 AM
  #6550  
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Originally Posted by Casper
So one day with the car running the kit setup and the car is junk?

Here are a lot of setups you can try out to get you closer to something that may work for you and your track conditions. 2wd SC will not handle anything like a 2wd buggy EVER.

TLR has a search function on there web site!

http://www.tlracing.com/Search/Defau...chTerm=m3+X+12
Didn't say the truck was Junk I said My truck was JUNK! I've ran it a few time on diff surfaces and had good results just on the outdoor tracks it does not seem to be as good IMO. And thanks for the Links. I've already checked those out and they are Indoor or blue groove setups.

Last edited by SRC_DRIVER; 03-18-2013 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:56 AM
  #6551  
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3rd race on my 22sct. one guy I am friends with has his sc10 dialed, and in the 1st qualifier we started too close, we were hurting each other. my truck was driving really well. I got a bad start in the main though, started 7th of 11, and finished there.
one thing i did do, was put a pack through my truck, then I brought it in and reset my shocks. by reset, I fully compressed the shock (on the truck) and opened up the vent screw. a little fluid and air came out. once I got everything sealed up, i put it on the track, and it was noticeable difference! felt a lot better.
I was a little distracted though, my 22T has been a little troublesome. but, Ill get that one figured out soon enough.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:00 AM
  #6552  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Switch over the the AE spurs and HD slipper pads.. Much better option..
considering this. cheaper spur gears, and looks like more slipper pad surface area.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:53 AM
  #6553  
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Originally Posted by ufoDziner
Very interesting. I've never heard that before. Gear diffs have been my choice because I don't like to spend a ton of time wrenching when I can practice more. How many sessions do you get our of your ball diffs prior to them requiring a rebuild? If I could get them to stay smooth for a long time, I could easily switch back. Thanks
I get a few race days out of a ball diff. 2wd SC is one of the hardest classes on the transmission as the cars are relatively heavy and large tires. A ball diff will be more work then a gear diff for sure but there is a performance advantage to it so there is a trade off.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:12 AM
  #6554  
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Originally Posted by Casper
I get a few race days out of a ball diff. 2wd SC is one of the hardest classes on the transmission as the cars are relatively heavy and large tires. A ball diff will be more work then a gear diff for sure but there is a performance advantage to it so there is a trade off.
Casper do you use new gear and balls or do you just rebuild the existing a few times before changing it out for new?
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:19 AM
  #6555  
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
Casper do you use new gear and balls or do you just rebuild the existing a few times before changing it out for new?
I will admit I am normally lazy and replace the gear instead of cleaning it but a little shot of motor spray to get the old grease off you can reuse the gear.

TLR sells a great little rebuild kit for servicing diffs.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR232001
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