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Originally Posted by J_Bone
(Post 11119609)
In my 23 years of owning rc's, I've never heard of diff lube being refereed to as glue. It does have that gluing affect, but it is a lubricant, when applied to or accidently gotten on any of the tranny gears it will act like a glue to create a resistance. Not because it is a bonding agent, but because the tolerance between each gear is tight enough that any lubricant will bind the gears. Add the heat and the force of the gears and it will break down any thing and cause an over shimming affect on the gears. You'll notice the gear teeth will start shark toothing and prematurely wear your gears out. I have tried everything under the sun and noticed nothing works best on the gears. Just deal with the noise.
Letsnot confuse people and call it glue. I don't want to see people think the glue stick. they have is a majic diff lube trick.:lol: In my 40+ years, I've seen people try anything. :) If you slather the part of the gear between the balls and the center bearing with lube, it will have a negative effect on your diff because it will stick the out drives and the gear together. Diff lube is for diff balls and rings, and Less is more when it comes to diff lube. |
what bb losi springs and shock oil does everyone run on a medium traction, small track? running 17.5t motor.
thanks! |
Thinking about picking up a sc10 FT. What upgrades out of the box are needed? I dove one once and it was crazy loose in the rear. I prefer my rear planted. Is it possible to make the sc10 rear planted on medium bite outdoor?
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 11128489)
Thinking about picking up a sc10 FT. What upgrades out of the box are needed? I dove one once and it was crazy loose in the rear. I prefer my rear planted. Is it possible to make the sc10 rear planted on medium bite outdoor?
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...eld_Cactus.pdf Out of the box i would recommend the JC Rear Body mount brace, helps to keep the body flat during cornering, the stock one flexes quite a bit. Seems to be out of stock at Amain and JC right now so if you cant find one get ahold of Chris Krieg out of Phoenix, hes one of the main guys behind the new xfactory truck and does amazing things with carbon fiber (screen name is SpeedyDad). click here I would also get one of the Hi Flow bodies for outdoor and experiment with cutting out the vents. Oh...and the Avid Rack for sure. |
Originally Posted by Eaglesrx
(Post 11128356)
what bb losi springs and shock oil does everyone run on a medium traction, small track? running 17.5t motor.
thanks! |
Originally Posted by Eaglesrx
(Post 11128356)
what bb losi springs and shock oil does everyone run on a medium traction, small track? running 17.5t motor.
thanks! |
Originally Posted by gamedog1966
(Post 11128767)
Well since now we just changed the layout on our track and traction will b low again ill have to soften my suspension but when the track was great I ran 30 rear oil and 40 ft with 2 piston all around and 6 limiters up ft and 2 rear so my truck was very responsive and changed directions flawlessly and quickly. I ran 22t springs green ft and white/ yellow ears depending on the time of the day .( track dryness and such)
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Can i use this combo in my sc10 stock esc overheated and old motor is sooooo slow
Hi guys i am new to the hobby i bought an sc10 2wd rockstar edition and was hopping you could shed some of your knowledge with me.
I am on a budget only use the truck for bashing and at the local DJ as no local track. i have a max of $90 to spend on a combo what would u recommend i am running a 6 cell nimh 6800mah battery. I found these combos just wondering what u think of these Ezrun eZRun Combo B2 35A ESC+9T/4300Kv motor 1:10 RC car 86$ Preferd Option Leopard SKYRC LEOPARD 60A ESC 9T 4370KV Brushless Motor 1/10 Car Combo w/program card 68$ If i need to i could go for a cheaper brushed combo or just use old motor and get an esc what would u recommend.I would post a link but for some reason the fourm is not letting me. Regards Luke |
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
(Post 11128510)
I have always ran this setup on my SC10 at CV, CH, SRS, Hobbytown...it works everywhere. It's Maifields go to setup for anything and he has fine tuned it over the years. Tires will be your biggest deal at CV...ask Casey, he will probably tell you to run some AKA Gridirons out there. I think I ran JC Double Dees (green) f/r last time I ran on a club night out there, Green 3D's would probably be really good on the rear. The truck will probably be a little bit on the squirelly side...fun but not a handful.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...eld_Cactus.pdf Out of the box i would recommend the JC Rear Body mount brace, helps to keep the body flat during cornering, the stock one flexes quite a bit. Seems to be out of stock at Amain and JC right now so if you cant find one get ahold of Chris Krieg out of Phoenix, hes one of the main guys behind the new xfactory truck and does amazing things with carbon fiber (screen name is SpeedyDad). click here I would also get one of the Hi Flow bodies for outdoor and experiment with cutting out the vents. Oh...and the Avid Rack for sure. |
Hey guys I'm installing the mcmaster o-rings today but I wanted to know if I need to modefy the spacer that goes in between the o-rings. I read on another forum(rcshortcourse) that they need to be trimmed to 3mm when using these rings. I'm confused because they said that they were x-rings but the part number they gave were for o-rings and that's what I ordered. Here's the part number I'm using.
item # 9396k11 silicone o-ring AS568a dash number 006 |
Originally Posted by Bondobird
(Post 11131702)
Hey guys I'm installing the mcmaster o-rings today but I wanted to know if I need to modefy the spacer that goes in between the o-rings. I read on another forum(rcshortcourse) that they need to be trimmed to 3mm when using these rings. I'm confused because they said that they were x-rings but the part number they gave were for o-rings and that's what I ordered. Here's the part number I'm using.
item # 9396k11 silicone o-ring AS568a dash number 006 |
Originally Posted by nismomike
(Post 11131764)
Mcnaughton stopped selling the x rings in silicone, so now you would have to buy the kyoshos. The reason for trimming the spacer to 3mm thick is because it eliminates stiction.
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Originally Posted by Bondobird
(Post 11131795)
Okay. Thanks. Just so I'm clear, I still should trim the spacer even with these o-rings correct?
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Nice paint job like the color scheme on it. Just order the same body for mine hope it come out as well
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Originally Posted by nismomike
(Post 11131812)
Yes, and it might suprise you but I get less weeping with the thinner spacer. Oh, the Kyosho X rings are $10 for 8. That I cannot justify, but when McMaster had them 100 for $5, I would use those vs the red ones.
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