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Originally Posted by TimMo846
(Post 11026102)
LRP's sxx V2 does profiles for the timing, currently set it up at +4 on the boost timing, which is+1 on the stock setting. Is the 10.5 a good motor, power wise for it?
The thing is, you always wanna start with minimal boost and adjust your gearing first and see if you can get the truck where you want it. Boost and timing = higher temps which just isn't the best thing to do in the long run. Just do whatever combination of gearing/boost/timing that gives you the performance you want at the lowest temps. Your truck might be fast as heck but if you're coming off at +200 degrees after a 5 min heat it's not goint to be fast for very long. |
Originally Posted by MaplestreetRC
(Post 11026109)
It's a great motor.
The thing is, you always wanna start with minimal boost and adjust your gearing first and see if you can get the truck where you want it. Boost and timing = higher temps which just isn't the best thing to do in the long run. Just do whatever combination of gearing/boost/timing that gives you the performance you want at the lowest temps. Your truck might be fast as heck but if you're coming off at +200 degrees after a 5 min heat it's not goint to be fast for very long. |
Originally Posted by gamedog1966
(Post 11022165)
For my layout I actually have 6 limiters up front and 1 in rear, with 40 wt ft and 30 rear, 2 piston in all shocks. The limiters will allow the front to b more repsnosive and not dump over near as much. 25 drag may b a little too much and making u spin out. It acts like slaming on ur brakes and whipping the tail around. To b honest with 4 deg toe u shouldn't have a traction prob what so ever. Are u running the tires of choice of your track? I would thiink that you have a push prob if anything man. You should still b able to handle jumps just fine man. Add neg camber of 1deg on all wheels and ride height to start with is bone level in the rear and arms level up front is a starting point. I still run ae springs on me sc10 they seem more consistent than losi bb to me, I'm blue front and green rears just for a lil added traction and take away a little steering cause my truck steers from hell lol
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Does anyone use the LRP SXX Stock Spec v.2 ESC in your SC10? If so, are you happy with it?
I am currently using one in my VTA car and was hoping I could switch it back and forth with my SC10 but the thing seems to have no braking. I've been able to take my SC10 with its stock brushless system to the track once and I really use the brake. If I use the sxx, would I need to find some kind of set-up that doesn't need any brake to get around the track? |
Originally Posted by Zac_with_no_K
(Post 11027770)
Does anyone use the LRP SXX Stock Spec v.2 ESC in your SC10? If so, are you happy with it?
I am currently using one in my VTA car and was hoping I could switch it back and forth with my SC10 but the thing seems to have no braking. I've been able to take my SC10 with its stock brushless system to the track once and I really use the brake. If I use the sxx, would I need to find some kind of set-up that doesn't need any brake to get around the track? |
Originally Posted by Zac_with_no_K
(Post 11027770)
Does anyone use the LRP SXX Stock Spec v.2 ESC in your SC10? If so, are you happy with it?
I am currently using one in my VTA car and was hoping I could switch it back and forth with my SC10 but the thing seems to have no braking. I've been able to take my SC10 with its stock brushless system to the track once and I really use the brake. If I use the sxx, would I need to find some kind of set-up that doesn't need any brake to get around the track?
Originally Posted by TimMo846
(Post 11028089)
I'm using the TC version and it's supposed to have brakes on it and no reverse, but I've noticed that the brakes are like anti-locks. They do slow it down just a dead stop right away.
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I just completed my build on my factory team sc10 and was wondering is the setup that you follow a good starting point for setup. I am running on a indoor clay track with medium traction. I was thinking the 7 limiters up front was alot and didnt know if the gray rear and the red front were common since those were the only 2 it came with. I will have to post up pics latter i think it will become my new favorite over my my b4.1 since that one was a rtr built to world specs. Though these tires are a definitely a no go.
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Originally Posted by chancejeff
(Post 11028807)
I just completed my build on my factory team sc10 and was wondering is the setup that you follow a good starting point for setup. I am running on a indoor clay track with medium traction. I was thinking the 7 limiters up front was alot and didnt know if the gray rear and the red front were common since those were the only 2 it came with. I will have to post up pics latter i think it will become my new favorite over my my b4.1 since that one was a rtr built to world specs. Though these tires are a definitely a no go.
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Originally Posted by chancejeff
(Post 11028807)
I just completed my build on my factory team sc10 and was wondering is the setup that you follow a good starting point for setup. I am running on a indoor clay track with medium traction. I was thinking the 7 limiters up front was alot and didnt know if the gray rear and the red front were common since those were the only 2 it came with. I will have to post up pics latter i think it will become my new favorite over my my b4.1 since that one was a rtr built to world specs. Though these tires are a definitely a no go.
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Originally Posted by nismomike
(Post 11028841)
What track do you run at? Do you have lead weights?
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Hey guys, I have a quick gearing question. I'm sure its been asked a million times. I was running the stock 3300kv motor with an 19/84 gear setup. It ran a bit warm, but not too bad, I never had a problem besides alot of wheel spin. I upgraded to the Reedy 3900kv motor and I was wondering what gearing to run. We run a large, 1/8th scale track. Its pretty loose, and the jumps are big. Most of the guys I race with run crazy big motors, and tall pinions (21-27t). Right now I installed a 21/84 with the new motor, but I haven't been to the track, just a little bashing in the backyard. It isn't running too hot, but who knows at the track. Any opinions? Also where is the best place to temp the motor? Thanks in advance.
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Electronics...
I have a Race Spec SC10 and am looking to replace the electronics, and add a few mods. I have already gone to the threaded shocks and the ball diff, is there any recommendations that are needed?
Also I have received some help from the local guys and took some RC fuel tubing and used it for bump stops or shock limiters, was this a smart move or a WTF idea? |
Originally Posted by vintage Shu Cat
(Post 11035260)
I have a Race Spec SC10 and am looking to replace the electronics, and add a few mods. I have already gone to the threaded shocks and the ball diff, is there any recommendations that are needed?
Also I have received some help from the local guys and took some RC fuel tubing and used it for bump stops or shock limiters, was this a smart move or a WTF idea? I recently asked this same question about some good other upgrades and this was the only reply I got. "The Avid bell crank (Which eliminates the servo saver) and takes all the slack out of steering. The B44.1 aluminum rear hubs .5 is what I run but there is also 1.5-0 degree if you prefer. The carbon "C" towers for the B44.1 hubs. Car improved stability in corners and straights so much it's crazy. I also drill the 4th inner hole in my rear stock shock tower like many others do. I think this adds to the improved steering." |
Don't eliminate the servo saver if you don't have a metal geared servo.
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I recently got an SC10 in a trade, and put it together to race. Two years ago I had one of the early ones to come out, and I remember there being an issue with the chassis strength in front of the servo, so I ran a 4mm chassis protector/skid plate from ebay. I noticed that this piece is still available and my question is this:
Was there an improvement in the chassis material or design that makes this piece not necessary or is there still a problem with strength? Again I have been out of the 2wd SC class for a couple years now and a little help is appreciated. Thanks |
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