For my layout I actually have 6 limiters up front and 1 in rear, with 40 wt ft and 30 rear, 2 piston in all shocks. The limiters will allow the front to b more repsnosive and not dump over near as much. 25 drag may b a little too much and making u spin out. It acts like slaming on ur brakes and whipping the tail around. To b honest with 4 deg toe u shouldn't have a traction prob what so ever. Are u running the tires of choice of your track? I would thiink that you have a push prob if anything man. You should still b able to handle jumps just fine man. Add neg camber of 1deg on all wheels and ride height to start with is bone level in the rear and arms level up front is a starting point. I still run ae springs on me sc10 they seem more consistent than losi bb to me, I'm blue front and green rears just for a lil added traction and take away a little steering cause my truck steers from hell lol

Idk bro I have my truck set up where I can drive it hard as hell, I'm stock and run full throttle damn near the entire track with great traction. I actually put a tad of push in my truck so I can drive it harder than a truck with too much steering. My truck is able to b pushed the way my k truck is lol

All this is great advise and also your suspention may b too soft for your track

Whats a good starting camber for rear and fronts? Any of you running toe in up front?

Im currently not running camber in fronts or rears nor toe in up front. I am running 4 degree toe in in the rears.

Whats a good starting point with cambers and toe in on a high traction indoor clay track?

I would start with -1 camber front and rear and 0 tow in the front

sounds good, thanks.

Agree 100%

Solid advice

Also.... I just fried my three week old Hi-Tech POS servo I bought new for 39.99 and am in need of advice for what servo I should purchase for my SC-10 2wd.

I run Savox 1258 in both my trucks. run great for me. .09 speed and i think 160/oz torque. $69.99 pretty much everywhere. If you run a spectrum radio and/or castle products esc you might need a receiver cap.

I have a 1258 in mine with an SR200 and BH120a. I put the cap in just because I had it. It would brownout with the stock ESC, so it's just insurance.

Have the Savox 1258 in 5 cars in my family. 0 issues with any of them. For the price and performance, cant think of any reason to ever run anything else.

And I have either the Avid bellcrank or the Servo Saver bolted on every one of them, still no issues.

For the Castle and certain Novak ESC's, we have to run a cap. My Vipers dont need it.

Well its amazing what a simple tyre change can do.

After being severly dissapointed with JConcepts Subcultures on my local track at my last race meet, I threw on a set of ProLine Snipers on the rear and put the SubCultures on the front.

It was like a totally new truck, planted in every corner, no hint of traction rolling, I could roll on the power without worrying about the rear stepping out.

Think I found my new tyre choice.

Hey everyone, just picked up a FT SC10. Currently running a LRP sxx V2 ESC and a Tekin 10.5 redline. Just wondering what might be a good gearing for this set up? Track I'll be running at is a clay surface with a 90ft straight and some tight turns. Any advice would be great.

Also what would be some good 1st upgrade for it that might be a weak point? I already have the RPM front bumper/skid plate and chassis brace and the Proline hex conversion for it.

I run 78/22 with the 10.5 in my T4.1 and I think I ran pretty similar to that when I had a 8.5 in my SC10.

My advice is to start everything stock (ESC boost and Motor timing), and start gearing around 81/22 and see where that gets you with power and temps. I like to run as big a spur as possible because every mm you can move your motor back shifts that little bit of weight.


As far as weaknesses go. I hated the RPM A-arms. They are very durable but they flex like crazy and change the whole handling of the truck.

The upgrades that I have noticed the BIGGEST difference in the truck have been:

The Avid bell crank (Which eliminates the servo saver) and takes all the slack out of steering.
The B44.1 aluminum rear hubs .5 is what I run but there is also 1.5-0 degree if you prefer.
The carbon "C" towers for the B44.1 hubs. Car improved stability in corners and straights so much it's crazy.
I also drill the 4th inner hole in my rear stock shock tower like many others do. I think this adds to the improved steering.

LRP's sxx V2 does profiles for the timing, currently set it up at +4 on the boost timing, which is+1 on the stock setting. Is the 10.5 a good motor, power wise for it?