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Originally Posted by dirtracin52
(Post 14053546)
Yeah i guess im not use to poeple like him due to that fact that all the people at the track i go to are all nice and helpful. Ive ordered the parts and im looking forward to doing some work on my sc10 and painting a new raptor svt body for it.
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Originally Posted by pettyeagles
(Post 14053783)
Alot of his posts on here are disrespectful to others. Good luck with the body and getting your SC10 dialed in.
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan
(Post 14052589)
Yes, RPM makes ballcups for the SC-10 and they are way better than the stock ballcups. Ballcups are plastic and ballstuds are metal. The ballcups snaps into place. What do you think happens to the plastic as you snap the ballcups on and off a bunch of times? Spend the few dollars to replace the ballcups and your problem will go away. This hobby isn't that hard if you think about the way stuff works, and then use logic and common sense.
I know a moderator has spoken to you already... you don't want to hear from a supermod. Back on topic, boys. |
Originally Posted by Cpt.America
(Post 14054976)
Relax amigo... You DO know it's possible to be helpful, without being an ass, yeah? Not everybody is experienced enough to even know about different ballcup and ballstud options they can run. Our goal here should all be the same... to help grow the hobby.
I know a moderator has spoken to you already... you don't want to hear from a supermod. Back on topic, boys. |
Newbie questions sc10 2wd rtr
If there is a better place to post this let me know and sorry...
Bought this for my kids and I to bash. Learning this isn't a great basher so far. Snapped chassis 2x out. Fixed with braces, etc. Question is were ran with light snow on ground and it died. When I took off body chassis and components full of snow. Truck won't run now. Questions- -Best way to test esc? Light blinks once for nimh, long blink after that, but no sound/beep. Light turns red when pulling trigger but no motion. Not sure if damaged. - disconnected motor and tried to connect directly to battery and nothing. Dead motor? -should this happen? I thought this was water proof or too much water on components? -if motor or esc shot, recommended replacement parts using my nimh batteries? Think I want to go to brushless for low/no maintenance. No soldering preferably so using same connectors, etc. Thx! |
I've been a long time user of Associated's ball diff since...like forever. Now I am breaking out some geared diffs to run in a couple of SC10s for track bashing purposes only.
I was wondering which parts of the gear diff wear out first. Does the gear diff wear out faster than the sun and planet gears? |
I'm actually curious about the answer as well. Gear diffs tend to be so long-lasting that I don't recall having seen commentary on what part generally gives out first! Well, except that the outdrives might be the very first thing to wear out. Luckily SC10 gear diffs are quite affordable so replacing even the entire thing isn't so bad.
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Originally Posted by rustyus
(Post 15111209)
I've been a long time user of Associated's ball diff since...like forever. Now I am breaking out some geared diffs to run in a couple of SC10s for track bashing purposes only.
I was wondering which parts of the gear diff wear out first. Does the gear diff wear out faster than the sun and planet gears? |
Not quite the answer I was looking for.
Diff gear, or sun/planet gears... which one needs replaced more often? More or less a ratio answer. Do people find themselves rebuilding their gear diff once, twice, maybe three times before the 52T gear diff (#9828) needs replaced? FWIW, I'll be ordering a handful of complete gear diffs and a few gear diff rebuilds for my trucks...just to have on hand. My gear diffs in my two STs are my only way of judging tranny life expectancy of Associated's gear diff. |
Originally Posted by rustyus
(Post 15112653)
Not quite the answer I was looking for.
Diff gear, or sun/planet gears... which one needs replaced more often? More or less a ratio answer. Do people find themselves rebuilding their gear diff once, twice, maybe three times before the 52T gear diff (#9828) needs replaced? FWIW, I'll be ordering a handful of complete gear diffs and a few gear diff rebuilds for my trucks...just to have on hand. My gear diffs in my two STs are my only way of judging tranny life expectancy of Associated's gear diff. |
Hope this is the right place. Just picked up the SC10.3. Wondering about replacing the wheel hex adapters with these from Team Associated:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...sc9892/p236851 Will these work front and rear? |
Originally Posted by FastGT94
(Post 15219305)
Hope this is the right place. Just picked up the SC10.3. Wondering about replacing the wheel hex adapters with these from Team Associated:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...sc9892/p236851 Will these work front and rear? |
Thx, I was mostly concerned about the front as I know earlier SC10 versions didn't have hex fronts and there is a separate part number for the front only which involves new axles etc on the older models.
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#9892 are for the rear of the SC10. They are a bit wider than the fronts. And since the SC10.3 uses the same steering blocks, axles, and caster blocks as the SC10.2, I assume you would want to use #9893 front clamping wheel hexes.
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For those who might still be racing these trucks (seems to not be many), I found that the B4 ESC tray is a direct fit even though nowhere says it is compatible with the SC10.3 https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...red_esc_mount/ Definitely required suspension tweaks once I relocated everything. (removed the ESC fan and put it underneath, and modified the stock battery strap) So far, no issues with overheating during races. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...3f0efff31.jpeg |
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