SC10 Thread Part 2
#4231
From the RTR? Big bore springs, aluminum steering rack, and if you have the $$ the big bore shocks too. I think when you look at the cost you will quickly realize that it is would be cheaper to sell the RTR and just buy a 10.2. However, if you are like me, you might be a bit stubborn and actually enjoy adding all these upgrades. The electronics in the RTR aren't all that great either. A nice sensored ESC with a decent motor is good too.
#4233
Just wondering what my sc10 might be worth if I were to sell it here on the forums.
SC10 RS roller, FT titanium turnbuckles, Avid Clamping Hex front and rear, FT CVD's, MIP ball diff, RPM front bumper and skid plate, FT carbon fiber battery strap, FT milled motor mount.
What do you think is a fair price?
SC10 RS roller, FT titanium turnbuckles, Avid Clamping Hex front and rear, FT CVD's, MIP ball diff, RPM front bumper and skid plate, FT carbon fiber battery strap, FT milled motor mount.
What do you think is a fair price?
#4235
I think the aluminum bell crank set is what BDS was talking about when he said steering rack. Avid makes a good set, too. Stock plastic units are a pretty poor design and break too easily.
I don't recall if the RS comes with the big bearing rear hubs or not, but that would be a good upgrade, too, if it doesn't have it already. Either FT set or B44, if I recall correctly. Little bearing wear out quickly in rear hubs.
I don't recall if the RS comes with the big bearing rear hubs or not, but that would be a good upgrade, too, if it doesn't have it already. Either FT set or B44, if I recall correctly. Little bearing wear out quickly in rear hubs.
#4236
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 210
I am probably going to wait until I start breaking stuff before those upgrades, as my LHS takes great care of our family, and is a mile from my house.
I know the plastic steering rack looks really weak, and while I love aluminum bell cranks in theory, they are scary in execution. My daughter broke the tip off the stock plastic one on her Slash 4x4, so I went aluminum. After that became a story of two stock Traxxas servos destroyed the same day at the indoor track, which ultimately led to a Savox 1256tg purchase.
The rear carrier bearings on this truck are tanks compared to the crap on the Slashes. Even the RTR shocks and springs are light years better than what comes on the Slash 4x4- It's progressive rate springs are junk.
I know the plastic steering rack looks really weak, and while I love aluminum bell cranks in theory, they are scary in execution. My daughter broke the tip off the stock plastic one on her Slash 4x4, so I went aluminum. After that became a story of two stock Traxxas servos destroyed the same day at the indoor track, which ultimately led to a Savox 1256tg purchase.
The rear carrier bearings on this truck are tanks compared to the crap on the Slashes. Even the RTR shocks and springs are light years better than what comes on the Slash 4x4- It's progressive rate springs are junk.
#4238
Does anyone have any issues with their trucks going straight back or nose diving? It seems like unless I am super focused on keeping the throttle even and just barely pressed my truck picks one of these to do at my local track. It's mainly on a big triple jump. I also have the battery seated about 3/4 the way to the rear.
The truck is a pretty much box stock sc10rs. I haven't messed with any radio or esc settings. It just feels like I have hardly any control once it hits the end of the jump.
The truck is a pretty much box stock sc10rs. I haven't messed with any radio or esc settings. It just feels like I have hardly any control once it hits the end of the jump.
#4239
Tech Addict
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 645
I bought a 2wd roller off CraigsList and the guy hooked me up with a ton of other parts, including another bare chassis. Can I use any of these parts to start a 4wd build? I'm not sure how much is shared between the two platforms and if it would make sense $$$-wise or if I'd be better off just buying a 4wd roller. Really my only concern is $$$. I have the time to learn and make sure everything gets put together correctly, I just don't want to break the bank doing it.
#4241
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 226
I bought a 2wd roller off CraigsList and the guy hooked me up with a ton of other parts, including another bare chassis. Can I use any of these parts to start a 4wd build? I'm not sure how much is shared between the two platforms and if it would make sense $$$-wise or if I'd be better off just buying a 4wd roller. Really my only concern is $$$. I have the time to learn and make sure everything gets put together correctly, I just don't want to break the bank doing it.
#4243
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 90
From: Rancho Cordova
Wife got me a SC10RS RTR for VDAY. Where can I find setup sheets for this truck on medium to high traction indoor track with the RTR shocks? Everything I see is big bore.
Also, thinking about buying a sensorless motor and running the SC700 ESC to gain some speed and stay on a budget. Truck feels slow compared to my 2wd buggy. Any suggestions or should I go sensored ESC/motor?
Also, thinking about buying a sensorless motor and running the SC700 ESC to gain some speed and stay on a budget. Truck feels slow compared to my 2wd buggy. Any suggestions or should I go sensored ESC/motor?
#4245
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 90
From: Rancho Cordova
I am not sure if they are Proline or Associated but most of the racers run SC10.2s or SC10s that are upgraded to SC10.2 specs.
The SC10./ kit comes with the threaded big bore shocks. I have the SC10RS RTR which came with "v2" shocks. They are not threaded or big bore, so I don't think using a setup sheet with BB shocks will work the same with my truck.
The SC10./ kit comes with the threaded big bore shocks. I have the SC10RS RTR which came with "v2" shocks. They are not threaded or big bore, so I don't think using a setup sheet with BB shocks will work the same with my truck.



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