Does anyone know if it is possible to use the B5 rear motor motor mount plate on our SC10?

I absolutely HATE having to remove the wheel to remove the pinion/spur cover.

My SC10 bounces in the rear after drop. It's not terribly bad, but it happens slightly. Any fixes? Softer spring? Lighter oil?

I'm running 40wt oil all around with silver springs all around.

Is the chassis bouncing off the ground? If so raise your ride height.

si i got a used sc10 for cheap. i turn the spur and hold one tire the other doesnt turn no matter how tight i put the slipper. also there is tension at some points while turning the spur

really? no one knows what i should do to fix that

Take it apart and rebuild the diff. Thats about the 1st thing I'd do if I got one used is go thru the tranny and renew it all. Sounds like a burned diff. Assuming it is a ball diff. Either way rebuild it.

its for my 8 year old brothers b day tomorow lol glad it costed my mom only $100 with everything brushless i have had multiple rc cars but dont know how to rebuild the diff time to go find out thanks

ok i think i fixed it but also may have locked the diff by tightening the hex screw in the diff cup completely. it was loose idk how it should be but i will test soo and make sure

The general rule of thumb with a ball diff when it comes to that screw is to tighten it all the way down, and then back it off about 1/4 turn.

ok ill change that now. thanks for the response cuz i need it running for my brothers 9th b day tomorrow

ok question about my sc10 at my dads house. he doesnt want lipos there but fine at my moms house. i run a 7 cell 4200 mah nimh battery with sidewinder v3 4600kv motor on my sc10 ive tried moving battery forwards and backwards tried different amout of shock spacers (currently have all plus more in the rear for my desired ride height) everytime i jump fuul speed of a speed bump it nose unders and slides upside down even while holding throttle in air the whole time. what is a solution to this still have stock shock oil in but have 40wt that was put in my brothers helion recently

Don't jump over a speed bump if you can. Pretty much any racing vehicle is going to do that over a speed bump. If you really want to do it, you are going to need to tinker with oil weights and probably substantially increase your rear ride height. If you are packing up and the back end kicks up without compressing at all, try decreasing oil weight or going to a larger holed piston. If you are driving through and brutally chassis slapping, go in the opposite direction.

Anyone still racing these? I've been hitting practice nights with a new rs I bought a few weeks ago to re-introduce myself to the fun. First time doing off road, all my experience is with nitro touring cars.

There are still people out there racing RS's and small bore shocks. Depending on the track conditions they are fairly competitive. You can still get info from the 10.2 thread too.

I just got an RTR yesterday, and it is the nicest driving little truck ever for the money! I've already put three 5000mah packs through it, and can't wait to do more tomorrow. We have a little makeshift on road track: sidewalk, curb, and street path that the kids and I drive outside my house, and it's perfect there. It drives so much better than my daughter's LCG Slash 4x4 at substantially less cost. Can't wait to hop it up and maybe race it at the indoor track. It seems a bit fragile, though, and I don't want to damage it the third day I own it, lol. That track is serious business for a newb.

Common good upgrades? I've done a number on those back tires, but am working on not braking too hard and roasting them.