I agree. I bought the Avid Hex conversion kit for my truck, and it's awesome. I've never had one slip, and they're beveled a bit so the wheels go on easier.

My son bought the Associated rear hexes and stripped a screw on one the first time he put them on. I was watching and he didn't twist on them very hard at all.

OK so I'm sure at some point throughout this whole thread these questions have been answered but I would like to maybe get one reply with most or all them answered in one shot.

I just picked up my SC10RS saturday and love it so far. I think my RC8.2e and my e-Truggy are going to get jealous of how much run time this little guy gets

Anyway..... I have a few questions to get me started. I just plan to club race it for the summer now and then just for fun then really get focused on the truck indoors this winter. I don't plan on touching the motor/esc until then so for now my questions are about handling. I noticed that the front end seems to REALLY push with the RTR tires up front. What are you guys using for a good front tire for a bigger outdoor track with kind of loose dirt (not clay/blue groove)? Also, what is a good starting point for oil weights in the shocks? I looked on AE's site at the setups and printed out a few that look like similar track conditions to my local track so we can start there, but does anybody have any little tricks/tips that I'm missing?

Also... last question..... what is a good gearing to run for a pretty big outdoor (1/8 scale) track? And would the stock motor/esc benefit at all from the Avid triad slipper setup or something similar?

Great questions. I'll be waiting on answers to those myself. Glad you asked.

All of those questions should be answered by asking the "fast guys" at that track what they are running, and what their recommendations are. None of us know what your track conditions are truly like...and that's the most important factor.

If you want a good starting point with shocks, etc....start with the 100% stock FT setup and go from there, change 1 thing at a time. the FT setup is pretty well rounded in just about any condition IMO.

Does anyone know the differences between the SC10 RS RTR, vs. the FT model?

I'm not talking electronics....... I'm talking about a-arms, shock towers, rear ballast, turnbuckles, diffs, axles, castor blocks, all those such things.

I plan on asking around for some suggestions but I was really looking for a tire suggestion for the front so I can get some ordered and have them here for this weekend. The track is a pretty big outdoor track that is pretty hard and rough with some dust on top but it gets a decent groove... not blue groove by any means but still a decent groove forms. Any ideas??

I think one cam with hexes and a different bat, and brushless and threaded shock I believe! Could be missing or adding sumn lol

I'm also running an RTR RS (with big bore shocks and ti-turnbux) and wanted to see if I could get a little more punch from the stock motor by toying with the gearing. I asked the worker (who is sponsored by AE) at my local track's hobby shop about what I can do to spice up the top end. His advice was to leave it as is because the OEM gearing combo is set up as optimal as it can be for that motor that comes with our truck. He mentioned that it would fry if I pushed it any harder than it currently is set up. I also dialed in the ESC profile to the "maximum" setting on the run profile.

My AE Big Bore Shocks feel amazing, definitely a great hop-up. I'm running the AE "White" springs up front and the AE "Green" springs on the back. I'm using 30w oil front and back. (too cheap to buy two bottles of different weight oils).

As far as tires go, my tracks are indoor with high-bite clay, Gold Barcodes front and back are the go-to set up. People also run Suburbs as well.

When you buy the BB conversion it comes with everything but the springs

Honestly, Calibers are a pretty decent all around tire from my experiences. M3 compound would be a pretty safe bet.

There is a lot of differences...if you want to know exact differences, download both manuals from AE's website and cross reference both.

just going from memory, these are the FT upgrades vs the RTR (old style FT)
alum. milled motor plate
Ball differential
CVA axles
Ti Turnbuckles
Carbon battery hold down
alum thumscrews for battery hold down
adjustable shocks
alum. rear hubs
customizable rear hub towers
Alum hinge pin brace
alum servo mounts
V2 slipper

and i'm sure there is more that I'm forgetting...
now if you want to compare the new sc10.2 FT to the RTR, there is even more on top of what I posted above
gullwing front arms
front shock tower/body mounts
alum hexes
alum steering rack
Big bore shocks
VTS slipper
Carbon hub towers

and again, I'm sure there is more im forgetting lol

Planing to order a new radio today if this guy buys some of my 1:1 car parts. turnigy 3xs (i dont have alot of money lol ),

but also tempted to buy the gullwing arms and shock tower at my lhs just to update the truck

I just want to share that I finally have my sc10 FT absolutely dialed in as perfect as "I" can make it. It handles so well now. Have found that goosebumps on the rear and half worn down gladiators on the front are a perfect combination for my local tracks.

Started doing the updated suspension
My local hobby store didn't have the body mounts (of course.. I read no one has it.)
http://i41.tinypic.com/kbc6c7.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/2liyidk.png

Will finish up later, i wanted to work out before it gets too late lol
I gotta see how I'm gonna mount the original body mounts, i seen a pic of it done.

Body Mounts are in at Tower in limited quantities.

Also with the gulwing arms, I decided to dremel the back of them off and run a longer screw so there is less chance of them pulling out. They had before in a race, so its just reassurance