Look at the picture I posted a few posts up,you have to use the new shock tower with the new arms,v2 and bb shocks are the same length

Gotcha.. Thanks alot Mxracer! I have some on order from amain. Can't wait to try out my SC10.1.5 :smile:

One more question. Do the older body mounts work with the new towers. The new body mounts are on back order.

The rear uses the same mounting points so you can use the old on until new ones are available. The front, on the other hand, are new to match the new tower.

With the 3 ounces of weight added to the back of the battery tray this was the worst jumping truck I have ever driven. Pretty much would land on the rear bumper. Is the weight only used on flatter tracks or am I missing something?

I ran mine 3oz in the back and battery back this weekend and it jumped fine. I was able to down side easy mode, but I scrub speed on the face almost always in sc. I just assume the wind will want to get me, lol.

So, you have to have new mounting posts to use the gullwing a-arms along with the new shock towers?

What's the difference with the mounting posts???:confused:

U mean the sc10 2 or the sc0 in general?

Okay, maybe something else was off if it jumps fine for others. Will have to experiment with it again.


SC10 in general

when people say something jumps wrong, most of the time I think to myself, they are doing it wrong. I was helping a novice learn to jump the sc10 into a head wind this weekend. He went from land on his roof to downsiding in 1 pack. Jumping SC's requires more work than buggies or ST's, but Unless the wind it retarded fast, I can normally set myself up on the jump and scrub speed to keep the nose down. SC trucks are very hard to correct once air gets under them. You really need to set them up of the face of the jump right. With buggies i can just flat jump and bring the nose down for the landing with brakes.

Alright stupid question, I'm getting a sc10 chassis on Friday. It has rpm from a arms. That's the only aftermarket part I can think of besides jconcepts wheel hex adapters that's on the chassis. What else should i look into?

Well IMO the sc10 is a very light and easy to handle on the track, but is a tad bit tricky on jumping...because it is very light...so it does take a lil practice to get it jumping right!!


It's a legit Q man lol, it depends on what u will be doing, racing, or bashing!

the right tires for your track. sc tires are expensive and you really dont want the wrong tires or you will not have any fun. The sc10 is a little tail happy, so many people put 3oz of lead in the rear of the battery tray. I also play with battery position to get the rear traction I want. But none of that means anything if you have the wrong tires. You might be able to get away with worn out tires up front and the "goto" tire in the rear. Aside from that you really dont need any upgrades at this point. if the truck has the "white" slipper pads, you might want to replace those with the yellow pads.


Always, go through used trucks. Check for stripped screws, bent motor plates, dry or worn out diffs, cracked chassis in the front under the bumper. Dump out the shock oil and check to see what pistons are inside and put the right oil in and make sure they are bleed out properly. Check the wheel bearing to make sure they are not gritty or locked up. Used cars/trucks can be a nightmare. Hopefully you got a good one.

Thanks for the info. I'll keep this information in mind once I go look at the chassis.

i run on some high bite and med bite tracks out here in so cal,my truck is stuck like glue,i only have the ballast and 1/4 oz in rear triangles with no other weight,i hope to get some shortys also to try out and see how it handles since that what most guys are doing out here