Thank you all for the help! I'm sure I'll get used to the noise

The Lunsford kit is made to be used with standard size ball studs. I assume you are talking about the SD Lunsford turnbuckles (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXYDL1&P=ML). I have used the Lunsford ball cups with great results, I did not realize how good they were until I built my new FT with the stock ball cups and turnbuckles. Several pops later I was digging through my parts bin to get them back out. I am not sure if Lunsford builds the ball cups in house or not but they work great, I would recommend using the same ones. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKXX7&P=7

I have the SD series but I was reading that the Lunsford ball cups are prone to popping off when adjusting camber. I tried threading the RPM 4-40 ball cups into the lunsford turnbuckles and it didn't thread correctly.

Here are the ones I found but it says they are for lunsford ball studs only.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Duty-Rod-Ends

So maybe the 3.5mm will work?http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nd-Set-Grey-12

Anyone have any sway bar pictures they can share? I know the rear is the standard set up but the front looks tricky to do.

Here is my post and how to on RCSC :http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...tml#post222188

Just an update, the setup using the Losi big bore springs were great, my average lap time was 34.5-35's and I threw down a long string of 32's and a few 33's. Overall a great mod.

Which Losi springs did you go with? I ordered some avid springs to try next week.

White rear 1.8lbs Green front 3.5 Losi 22t, losi cups trax retainers. It did feel great and I did try the Avids at the NW SC race and I didn't feel much difference other than the set up I have was a total cost of $25, the Avid set up would be $60.

I ended up putting the thin spacers on mine. The servo saver arm seemed just a little too close to hitting the case, plus it lines up the connecting rod a little better. The thick spacers might be even better.

Im using the same cups with my standard balls too. They are very tight, but still move freely. I replaced my FT turnbuckles with the Lunsford ones as well.

Those should work fine. I guess I never realized how much stuff Lunsford makes. If you convert your truck or car over to the 4.8mm ball studs you better have spares on hand, not sure how many hobby shops would stock all these different ball cup sets.

I run AE green springs on the rear of my SC10, and AE Gold Springs on the front.
I have not changed it because it felt good the last time I ran the truck.
35wt Associated Shock oil all 4 corners, it's a little soft but I like it.

Gear ratio is unknown but im running 17.5 Team Epic motor geared 75 spur, 25 pinion. On a big 8th scale track, but I might change to a 78 Spur for indoor.

Im running a cheap servo for the steering, it's a losi plastic geared servo, but it's digital so I have not had any steering problems.

So if anyone was curious to what I was running then that's it.
Im sure most of you are running a better setup than what im running.:sweat:

I have done this with a number of chassis with no issues at all. Demel a slot next to the servo and another slot on the brace next to the first. Each slot make big enough for the servo end to fit through.

hey bys im new to this side of the thread only been in the buying and selling section but im looking for reccomendations on a motor setup for a sc 10 i just traded for. it came with the castle sidewinder sv2 esc and the 5700 kv 4 pole motor. wondering if theres a better motor i can go with. esc should be fine as its gonna be my 2wd track truck. would a 3800 kv be more suitable for it? also wondering if i can ask questions about my slash 4x4 and slash 2wd trucks here? running a mmp race sct system in my slash 4x4 with the castle 3800 kv motor. would i be better off switch the motors and running the 5700 kv motor in my slash 4x4. or should i just trade my 5700 kv motor for a 3800. im also running the vxl system in my slash simply because its my everywhere truck. simply sits in the back of my truck in a pop crate with two batteries so whereever i go and i find i decent spot i can rip up or for winter time driving ect. ive got a spare 5900 kv hoobyking motor from the sc10 trade so im wondering if i could run that with the vxl 3s esc without blowing it. thanks any help would be appreciated also wondering if theres any suggestions for gearing and what batteries to be using as i have a ton of 2s and 3s lipos.

It all depends if u are gonna race or bash. If racing u can go with that for mod but most racers have a turn motor instead of kv. For stock running a trinity imo is the make the best stock motors and a esc by, tekin are lrp are what I recommend. Mod motors u can go with reedy sonic, trinity, orion any of these are high quality motors. There are others also .