4* is usually on all the setup sheets, I run 4* haven't tried 5 but I don't see a need to on my track, middle is 4*

Turn topic for a min . lol thus is our results for our last club race . finally got my car where I want it to stay consistent . my son was running a more numb setup and was fast with it he is 12yr lol but cased a jump on edge and broke a front arm .

Nice!

Keep it up!

Any news on a split center diff? Will it ever be a reality? Any time soon?

/Birger

My wish list:
1. Split center diff standard
2. Beefier motor mount (especially around the bottom lip/flange)
3. Center/front driveshaft that doesn't bend/wobble (titanium maybe?)

These would make the car as close to flawless as possible. (you know, cause nothing's perfect)

I would prioritize the split center diff. That would ease the maintenance of the entire drive line. And I would like a somewhat more durable rear body post. I broke my first one the other day when I landed upside down on a track wood barrier. However fortunately the body did not break.

/Birger

Is it possible to use some sort of CVD boot to help center the driveshaft?

The split center diff mount just to make the center diff easier to get out... I have had mine out several times and I never thought it was that tough to get out. I've done it without removing the motor to. Just remove the top, and the rear support. Takes a little wiggle, but it comes right out.

Front shaft that doesn't wobble...probably not without going to CV joint (or similar) on both ends. Dog bone type shafts will just wobble. Not sure there is any way to completely remove that. Is it the non-so-straight stock shaft that's the concern?
I went to the alum center shaft and haven't really noticed any issues.

curious, anyone got tips on tranny case assembly to keep the shims from moving when doing assembly. That is probably the biggest annoyance for me is when I got to change up the diff, the shims want to move on me when I do assembly.

About the split center diff: I agree that it is not a big deal, but it would definitely ease the maintenance. And I am not that fond of unscrewing the screws from the bottom of the chassie plate too often as they get worn enough by the wear and tear from rubbing the track surface.

/Birger

Anybody know what tekno springs ( front yellow rear orange) what are they closest to in kyosho. Yes i know there is a spring chart on 1st page but they measure differently to compare spring rates at the same rate. is it kyosho front orange and rear yellow ??? i'm just guessing. Don't want to buy all there springs they cost to much.

Yea
The kyosho baby blue front is in between the green & yellow tekno
The kyosho orange rears r heavier than any tekno spring (heaviest tekno spring being red)
My sons car runs yellow front /red rear and its really easy to drive . just not as much off power steering as the kyosho orange

+1, same thing here. It's just one of those tedious elements of buggy maintenance. They don't so much move on me when I get them in the output shaft diff half. It's just that it is not easy to get the other half of the case over them w/o bending or deforming the shim in some way. The shims are .1mm and bend/deform easily.
I have put a VERY little amount of black grease between the two shims and the inner shim and the bearing, and they seem to stick together and to the bearing so at least they go into the case evenly with the diff. Then its just getting the other half on.
Don't know if this is the 'best way' since the grease is a dirt/dust magnet but like I said a minute amount of grease.

kyosho Lt blue is stiffer than kyosho orange ? Now i'm confused lol

I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say they measure differently?