2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
03-23-2013 | 07:32 AM
#5371
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 314
From: St. Helens, OR
Adds pack...when the shock is pushed into the body the fluid wants to go to the center (away from the piston holes) and when its pulling out the fluid wants to push to the outside( toward the piston holes)....it does roughly the same job as the double action pistons but in a way smarter way. At least that's how I understand it....slows the compression without slowing the decompression.
the reasons you listed are correct. conical shaped pistons affect the speeds at which pistons go up and down direction-ally... i.e. faster one way or the other depending on the direction of the piston.
some tracks this can be made to work. bumpy tracks you want fast compression and slower rebound so the car doesnt get upset in the ruts, and some tracks with bit air you want slower compression so the car doesnt chassis slap.
where it gets complex is with pack. because it changes each direction the pack changes as well. pack really helps the car get out of a corner and land properly. with conical pistons the car always feels floaty and disconnected to me unless you run thick oils (fine for a smooth track) but it compromises the car in any kind of bump.
if youre really wanting to tune the shocks and not get frustrated in the process just grab those normal kyosho 1.3 pistons i listed. its a simple answer and they are much easier to tune, more consistent.
Matt
some tracks this can be made to work. bumpy tracks you want fast compression and slower rebound so the car doesnt get upset in the ruts, and some tracks with bit air you want slower compression so the car doesnt chassis slap.
where it gets complex is with pack. because it changes each direction the pack changes as well. pack really helps the car get out of a corner and land properly. with conical pistons the car always feels floaty and disconnected to me unless you run thick oils (fine for a smooth track) but it compromises the car in any kind of bump.
if youre really wanting to tune the shocks and not get frustrated in the process just grab those normal kyosho 1.3 pistons i listed. its a simple answer and they are much easier to tune, more consistent.
Matt
Matt, the pistons you are referring to are they
part# KYOIFW405-138 Kyosho SP Big Shock Piston (1.3 x 8 hole)
or
part# KYOIF347-138 Kyosho Big Bore Shock Piston (1.3 x 8 hole)
Not sure what the difference other than the SP are black.
03-23-2013 | 07:45 AM
#5372
sand the diff case
Something that i have learned when building diffs, is to lightly sand the flange of the plastic diff case prior to assembly. Prevents leaking where the flange meets the gasket.
Just get some fine to medium grit sand-paper on a flat surface. Take the plastic diff case (empty with no parts or o-rings inside) and turn it flange side down. Lightly moving it across the sand paper back and forth while turning it slightly. Only remove enough material so that it removes the "shine" from the mold and is now flat. Clean the diff case and be sure there is no debris in the threaded holes.
This should help with leaks at the flange.
If leaking at the o-rings, use a little more grease on assembly and give the o-rings time to seat or swell after break-in. This shouldn't take more than a few runs.
Just get some fine to medium grit sand-paper on a flat surface. Take the plastic diff case (empty with no parts or o-rings inside) and turn it flange side down. Lightly moving it across the sand paper back and forth while turning it slightly. Only remove enough material so that it removes the "shine" from the mold and is now flat. Clean the diff case and be sure there is no debris in the threaded holes.
This should help with leaks at the flange.
If leaking at the o-rings, use a little more grease on assembly and give the o-rings time to seat or swell after break-in. This shouldn't take more than a few runs.
03-23-2013 | 05:04 PM
#5373
Hi Doc, I have heard of that with other brands, it didn't seem to be an issue with the Tekno stuff, but is probably good practice with all.
I may very well have overfilled. Once again, I wasn't entirely sure so I didn't want to be under filled.
So it may stop? This is what the area looks like after running the diffs in.
I may very well have overfilled. Once again, I wasn't entirely sure so I didn't want to be under filled.
So it may stop? This is what the area looks like after running the diffs in.
03-23-2013 | 05:23 PM
#5374
Hi Doc, I have heard of that with other brands, it didn't seem to be an issue with the Tekno stuff, but is probably good practice with all.
I may very well have overfilled. Once again, I wasn't entirely sure so I didn't want to be under filled.
So it may stop? This is what the area looks like after running the diffs in.
I may very well have overfilled. Once again, I wasn't entirely sure so I didn't want to be under filled.
So it may stop? This is what the area looks like after running the diffs in.
03-23-2013 | 07:26 PM
#5375
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 609
From: oakdale,new york
since the screw bosses go all the way through the diff cup i found that diff oil got in mine and was thrown out when i did the diff break-in....i took the center diff out and could see that it wasn't coming from the gasket area...
03-23-2013 | 08:02 PM
#5376
Ah, that could be it too, I'll clean it up and gun it again, see what happens......all good, quite a learning process.
I must say it's very cool that there is a perfect spot for a Mylaps transponder, and even the screws are provided, and a little hole in the side for the cable!!! Very good stuff!
I only got the transponder recently and was surprised it didn't come with mounting screws, just the frame.
I must say it's very cool that there is a perfect spot for a Mylaps transponder, and even the screws are provided, and a little hole in the side for the cable!!! Very good stuff!
I only got the transponder recently and was surprised it didn't come with mounting screws, just the frame.
03-23-2013 | 08:09 PM
#5377
What do you guys think of these connectors instead of soldering in bullets in between the ESC and motor?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4800
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4802
Not sure if 5mm ones are available anywhere, these guys don't seem to have them. Otherwise seem good if crimping offers less resistance compared to soldering.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4800
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4802
Not sure if 5mm ones are available anywhere, these guys don't seem to have them. Otherwise seem good if crimping offers less resistance compared to soldering.
03-23-2013 | 08:25 PM
#5379
Was hoping to have a kit put together for the TLR Shootout this weekend, but can't find an EB48 anywhere 
Backordered and nothing on Ebay or the For Sale section...
I've got my pile of electronics ready to go, but no car...
Backordered and nothing on Ebay or the For Sale section...I've got my pile of electronics ready to go, but no car...
03-23-2013 | 08:42 PM
#5381
03-24-2013 | 10:27 AM
#5384
What do you guys think of these connectors instead of soldering in bullets in between the ESC and motor?
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4800
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4802
Not sure if 5mm ones are available anywhere, these guys don't seem to have them. Otherwise seem good if crimping offers less resistance compared to soldering.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4800
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4802
Not sure if 5mm ones are available anywhere, these guys don't seem to have them. Otherwise seem good if crimping offers less resistance compared to soldering.