Yes.

Excellent, thanks!

I tried the CSI blacks last Friday. Pretty cool piston. Used the same oils as I would have used with the stock undrilled pistons. Buggy had just a touch too much pack for the track but it wasn't bad so I left them in. I'm going to try the blues next time.

This buggy continues to perform. I have not raced in over a month and got 2nd in our A Main. I love this car.

For the first time, the car is sounding a little strange at high RPM. Bearings seem to be OK at low speeds. Kind of like a crunching sound. It's got full power. I guess I have to look at the diffs.

i don't think anything went wrong with the bearing nor with diff unless there's a previous error when installing them because i ran mine more than the highest rpm anyone would get - sure above 45k rpm - and so far no issues at all.
continue enjoying !

Check the spur gear , sometimes dirt and tiny rocks can get jammed into the teeth and it will get pretty noisy ......

It's strange because I got this car when it first came out. I did not put the shims in the diffs. I got the new rear diff coupler and drive shaft. I have only broken 1 A arm the entire time. The gears on this car on tiny. The diff case is also small. Kind of cool if you ask me. I wonder if the diff gears are gone. It's like a crunchy, flapping noise when you hit full throttle and the rear drops down. You also hear this noise during a jump when you spin the wheels in the air. I switched from VP PRO oils to Team Associated oils. Still at 5,5,3.

I will pull the car apart tomorrow. The car still has full power. I will check the spur gear.

See if your wheels are dragging a bit on the mud guards on the rear arms. Mine would rub at full droop an sound like you are describing. I just had to notch the guard a bit for clearance.

Now that I think about it....the rim on one of my rear tires has a small notch in the back part. That has to be it.

My experience with the pistons on my other 1/8 ebuggy required a much thicker oil.

I am surprised that with just the CSI piston change you had more pack than the 10x 1.1s; did you change the stock bladder?

CSI bladder and very cold temps.

I was gonna wait 'til I actually have mine and installed, but this already seems to be going around on Fb so,
A friend and fellow racer has recently started making chassis skinz. So, I contacted him about one for the 410, which being the chassis is the same, also will work on the EB48.

https://www.facebook.com/TwistedSkins

I'll post actual installed pics once I get mine which should be probably sometime next week, I think.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/painting...sis-skins.html

I have a 2050kv and will probably use my 2 2s packs or go one 4s but i wanna use what i have for now. Any help greatly appreciated.

Hello
You have tekin motor right which is delta wound they do have slightly more top end then Y wound motor . The Y wound motor gets up through the rpm range a little faster on take off hence slightly faster acceleration but the delta pulls away at the top end but remember the delta is not as efficient producing that extra rpm / torque will draw more current thus producing higher temp so Iam thinking a good starting point for an outdoor track would be 17t on the motor you have

ok cool ill see what i have laying around,thanks.