48,000+ rpm is why. That's way, way more than you would ever need unless your goal was to destroy as many motors as possible.

i know that the rpm is that much but my motor, esc and even the battery packs still holding no issue .
I think that if you're not doing WOT for over than 3-5 sec you'll be safe.

i got one just havent installed it yet. dying to get it finished . just got some christmas dough to finish it up so should be going in the next day or so

I killed a Castle 2650 Kv motor on 4s in a 1/8 SCT just going down the straightaway racing . Depending on gearing you could run 6s reliably on that motor for sure , but its really only good for bashing at that voltage IMO and way too much for racing anything accept maybe a monster truck ......

motor pretty much gets that kind of usage pushing around the savage 1/5 scales. Personally if it would have fit I was thinking of trying a 1518 motor.

It's all about drivebility. Unless you are bashing a 6s setup will be faster and easier to drive on the track with a lower kv motor like 1200-1400 kv. I run a 1750 on 4s and it's more than enough. Even on a big outdoor track I just gear up and it's as fast as I need and very controllable.

so motors have more punch on the low end than others, at least, that is what I saw going from the 1900Kv tekin to the 2050Kv one. For some of the jumps with no run up, thats a real benefit.

Anything over a 2100 on 4s in buggy is overkill and not needed. 6s with a 1400kv motor is a great combo. Nothing higher is needed.

Thanks for the inputs about this topic..
Yes i'm a basher not a racer but practicing to do well
When needed to particepate in any race event.

going 6S is like getting lipo instead of nimh stick ..
Yes it's not that important for normal size racing track but
who ever try it will find it diffecult to go back to 4S.

I'm using the Hot Bodies 24T horn on my Hitec servo (http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/67168.html). It fits well except that I noticed that it rubbed the paint off the body. Anyone else have that issue?

Regarding skids, I picked one up from T-bone Racing (great customer service btw). After 10 packs though I've already worn out the back section of the skid and started eating into my chassis.

I saw the posts about the servo saver. My car seemed to drive fine. Is there a way to test for that issue or do all cars have it since the plastic mold is the way it is?

I had trouble getting the front end of the body to sit fully no matter how much of the corners of the nose I removed. A couple of flipovers caused the front end to crack. How did you cut the body nose to get it to go down all the way on the front post?

I have the same issue, so I'm going to velcro the next one instead of using the clips and keep the body a little taller by not cutting off as much on the bottom, so it lifts the body up a little.

The APE rear skid is stainless steel, so should hold up well. I have one and it fits well but haven't had a chance to run since I got it.
http://ape-rc.ecwid.com/product?15662778

Turn the car on, grab the wheels and try to turn them. If you can without much issue and the servo itself doesn't move, then you could use some trimming or tightening of the servo saver. If they don't really move much, then you're good.

I can't say I've had this issue with the body sitting down far enough, though I've cracked it both on the front and back where it clips down. The key for me was in trimming the back too, so that the body would easily slip under the 2 screw heads coming from the shock tower.

That sucks hope they do soon. I got an email from upgrade rc for those interested, you can get Tekno on their wraps, shirts, hats, etcetera, although they don't show Tekno as an option on their site.
Basically you make your design and leave blank the sponsor sites you want Tekno in and once you place the order reference it in an email or a call to them and they'll get the blank areas filled with the Tekno logo.

Ill ping then again about a body wrap!!!
Just an FYI.

Hope you guys & gals had a Merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year!

Aaron.

Speaking of servo savers, I seen the serpent double shear looks solid. Can't find it in 25t though! Anyone know of a true double shear servo saver other than the serpent? Would make a nice solution to the body clearance.

To all the guys that have ran a bunch of other brand buggies.

How would you compare the EB48 to them? Which other brand does it drive or handle the closest to? I'm debating on picking up an EB48 and a SCT410 and would just like some more opinions.

Thanks!

I've had a ve8, tekno v4 mp9, rc8b ft, 8ight and driven an mbx6 rc monster conversion and the eb48 feels like a big b44 in comparison. Out of the box the kyosho was the best as far as corner speed and traction, but my tekno is getting better as I work on the setup. And the eb is a lot more durable than the kyosho. I also like how sensitive the eb is to setup changes.