justpoet

iTrader: (16)

There are a lot of EB48.2 and EB48 setups on the Tekno website here:
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...p_sheets/EB48/
I would just pick one for your track conditions and start there.

That battery is slightly heavier than some run, but if you have a heavy metal servo and/or a larger ESC, it will balance out better. You may find the car slightly less reactive and slightly more stable than with a lighter pack (aka, easier to drive), but you won't find any problems running it either with that pack or with a lighter one.

If you are using the stock pistons (10x1.2), then you'll want the shocks mounted in and a stiffer spring. If you use the 6x1.5 pistons that many setups went with, you'll have the shocks all the way out in order to get enough piston speed for them to work well.

As for tools, make sure to get good hex drivers (Tekno has very nice tools now, especially the ball drivers). Then get a set of nut drivers to match the sizes you need (again Tekno has great options). If you need to skimp someplace on tools for budget, do it with nut drivers. Needle Nose Pliers are a godsend in any RC kit, as is a good Xacto knife. For 8th scale you'll want a good 17mm wrench for the wheels, and Tekno's tool here is great as it also works for the top of the shocks. Shock shaft pliers are very helpful and once Tekno's new ones come out, they'll be my next purchase. I've used them a few times at big races where the top Tekno folks were there, and they're awesome (and helpful for all the other stuff they do too). Lastly, if you plan to do a LOT of work on it, or other kits, then consider an electric screwdriver with a clutch mechanism and some MIP speed tips to put into it for 2.5 and 2mm sizes.

coombes

iTrader: (6)

Hey guy has any convert there eb48.2 to the eb48.3 with the basic kit upgrade and how did you like it

turtle189

Yes I did works really good. Switch shocks towers a steering to .3 felt it lost abit of steering. Made some changes seems better. Also very stable running black front orange rear springs 32.5wt front 35wt rear.

Dragonfueled

Is it possible to go to the .2 front end setup for more steering. I'm just not liking the weight transfer on the .3 on a very slippery track. I can't get the front to dig in and turn it just kinda stays flat

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

If you're not getting enough weight transfer to the front try increasing the front kickup. You should also check your bumpsteer and ackermann if you feel you need more initial turn-in. You can give yourself some bump out or try moving to the rear most ackermann hole.

turtle189

Yes you can

jhengis

iTrader: (4)

I know bds81175 has done fredswain's method of balance tuning the springs on his eb48. Has anyone else tried it on their eb48 and care to review?

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

Finally got another race day on the Tekno .2-3 with the upgrades. Last time I had a lot of push issues with it in some of the tight turns and 180s and not the best finish.

This time I out I switched to the Lutz Enats setup but using 7-7-5 in the diffs instead and also Green fronts and Yellow Rears. The car felt super planted and tons of steering. I was able to keep tight lines in the 180s and hammer thru the sweepers no problem. I was able to stay on the lead lap with the fast guys and finished 3rd with a tight battle for 2nd for a good portion of the 8min Amain.

With only a couple races left for outdoor before our indoor starts in October, finally glad I got the bugs worked out and have a setup to put on paper so when outdoor starts up next year.

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

I should probably note that the only .3 option I'm not using or not using yet is the V2 Hinge Blocks. I'm still using the stock .2 blocks front and rear and in the rear using the 1.5 Block

coombes

iTrader: (6)

Has any one try weight in the rear to have the rear end planted to the ground main is really taily off throttle and on throttle in and out the corners and have anyone to a higher diff oil combo like 10/10/7 what did it do as mine is really taily on a lose smothe dusty track

advpball

iTrader: (30)

ran 15 8 5 last night was better than 885 might try 15 10 7 ...worked better stayed on lead lap..now to just get rid of heavy throttle finger!!!

suzukipro

iTrader: (33)

I did the upgrade and was impressed with it on a small indoor layout. I used the 10° spindle carriers and .2 hinge pin braces (LRC) and could tell there was a noticeable improvement with handling from the .2.

Tbone17

iTrader: (10)

Just picked up a used EB48.2, haven't run it yet but quickly looked it over last night.

It has some slop at the wheels, will need some wheel bearings but also noticed that the hexes wobble on the axles. The setscrews are tight and am wondering if this is something that wears over time(the axle bore in the hex)?

I would like to find a new body that fits well and allows enough space for the electronics to clear easily. Is the stock wing the best to go with?

Also looking at picking up some spares:
-spur gear, is there a difference between the white and black plastic ones? Is a steel spur necessary or advisable?

-would like to have some spare arms/caster blocks/steering blocks and am wondering if I should get the .3 parts or just stick with .2 parts. I realize that with .3 parts if one breaks I'll have to switch both sides to the new ones

-need to pick up a set of the suspension tuning pills and shims, is there a set available or should I just order the stock replacement parts?

Aside from that I want to run the car and see how it feels before making any changes. I will probably rebuild the diffs and shocks to the stock settings as a baseline as I don't know what oil is in them now.

Thanks

one8updragracer

iTrader: (5)

tear down and rebuild. .3 parts only work if you have everything for the .3 I can't suggest mix and match with it.
My .2 still runs great. I have a spare spur gear but never needed it, no difference just color. I still run composite.

pfraser2488

iTrader: (14)

i just did the upgrade for my .2 to a .3 kit. after i did the build and i went to check my ride height i noticed that my rear shocks (xl bodies) would shot oil out of them whenever i would drop it to check ride height. when i built the shocks i put the new piston with the cone down like the .3 instructions say do. i used pt racing shock oil at 450 weight. did i do something wrong? my other shocks would not do this. thanks for any help or advise you can give. i also put the new pistons in the shock bodies for the front the same way, and they do not do this.