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Old 08-27-2015, 05:20 PM
  #15001  
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Originally Posted by justpoet
BTW, Happy Page 1000 everybody!

(as seen using default page size settings from when I joined)
Lol and it happens to post in page 1001
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75
Lol and it happens to post in page 1001
pwn'd! jk

Way to keep this active guys!
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:53 AM
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Happy page 376
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:24 PM
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Will the .3 arms fit on the .2? I don't want to have to change any hubs or anything, can I just swap the arms and that's it?
Also... I thought I saw somewhere that there was a .3 upgrade kit for like $140. Does anyone know the part number for that? I couldn't find it on the tekno website. I know you would have to swap the rear shocks to the front. Does this kit come with the new rear shocks you would need?
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Old 08-31-2015, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
Will the .3 arms fit on the .2? I don't want to have to change any hubs or anything, can I just swap the arms and that's it?
Also... I thought I saw somewhere that there was a .3 upgrade kit for like $140. Does anyone know the part number for that? I couldn't find it on the tekno website. I know you would have to swap the rear shocks to the front. Does this kit come with the new rear shocks you would need?
You will need more than just the arms to convert to the .3 setup. The rear hubs are not the same between the two.

Conversion isn't a kit from Tekno, it's from Fierce RC and it can be found here:

http://www.fiercercsolutions.com/PRE...kit-FRC010.htm
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Carter Flotron
You will need more than just the arms to convert to the .3 setup. The rear hubs are not the same between the two.

Conversion isn't a kit from Tekno, it's from Fierce RC and it can be found here:

http://www.fiercercsolutions.com/PRE...kit-FRC010.htm
I realize I need more than the arms to convert to .3 but I need new arms and was just wondering if I could use the .3 arms without switching hubs and all that stuff. But I would most likely just but the kit if I was going to convert. Thanks for the link I knew I saw it somewhere.
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:20 PM
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Up front you can keep the .2 spindles and carriers, they'll work with the .3 arms. Out back you'll need new hubs to be able to use the .3 arms.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:16 PM
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Need some assistance here guys I'm out of ideas!
I run on a hard pack extremely dusty local track that the town and a local rc club built. I have the .3 and can't get enough steering on this dusty track. I removed the front sway bar and still pushes. What can I do for Max weight transfer and steering. The best I can do is snap the steering and punch the throttle to kinda drift the turn but if it's not perfect I just drift wide. I tried a few different tires but it's so dusty it won't turn in like I want.
Funny thing is my sct410.3 is perfect. Plenty of steering with a soft front end and no sway bar.
I think the stiff front suspension on the .3 when compressed is actually hurting me on this slippery track.
Any input would be great.
By the way I can run the SCt on bald tires and thing still turns on a dime but the front doesn't get so progressively stiffer like the eb so it leans real nice and bites in.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragonfueled
Need some assistance here guys I'm out of ideas!
I run on a hard pack extremely dusty local track that the town and a local rc club built. I have the .3 and can't get enough steering on this dusty track. I removed the front sway bar and still pushes. What can I do for Max weight transfer and steering. The best I can do is snap the steering and punch the throttle to kinda drift the turn but if it's not perfect I just drift wide. I tried a few different tires but it's so dusty it won't turn in like I want.
Funny thing is my sct410.3 is perfect. Plenty of steering with a soft front end and no sway bar.
I think the stiff front suspension on the .3 when compressed is actually hurting me on this slippery track.
Any input would be great.
I just got my .3 on the track for the first time today. 2 different tracks, one grooved, one dusty and not maintained. I do have an occasional mid corner push, especially if the apex is not hit. I am going to look into set up ideas to allow the back to rotate more mid-corner and/or get the front end to bite more mid corner.

It does seem to have an odd difference in suspension feel from front to back. Back is super smooth and soft. The front is stiff and just doesn't feel right.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:44 PM
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Hey guys I am getting back into RC after being out for a few years. Picked up a used EB48.2 and can't wait to get it to a track. Is there a good baseline for a novice or is the stock setup the way to go? Also I picked up an SMC 6700 4C pack. Is this going to be too large/heavy for racing?

Also would you guys recommend any specific tools? I need to setup a new kit and need all the essentials. Thanks for the help!

Last edited by cap7ainclu7ch; 08-31-2015 at 11:10 PM.
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:38 AM
  #15011  
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Originally Posted by Dragonfueled
Need some assistance here guys I'm out of ideas!
I run on a hard pack extremely dusty local track that the town and a local rc club built. I have the .3 and can't get enough steering on this dusty track. I removed the front sway bar and still pushes. What can I do for Max weight transfer and steering. The best I can do is snap the steering and punch the throttle to kinda drift the turn but if it's not perfect I just drift wide. I tried a few different tires but it's so dusty it won't turn in like I want.
Funny thing is my sct410.3 is perfect. Plenty of steering with a soft front end and no sway bar.
I think the stiff front suspension on the .3 when compressed is actually hurting me on this slippery track.
Any input would be great.
By the way I can run the SCt on bald tires and thing still turns on a dime but the front doesn't get so progressively stiffer like the eb so it leans real nice and bites in.
What tires have you tried? What's is the rest of your setup like? Try going higher rear ride height run 27front 28 rear
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:27 AM
  #15012  
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Originally Posted by Dragonfueled
Need some assistance here guys I'm out of ideas!
I run on a hard pack extremely dusty local track that the town and a local rc club built. I have the .3 and can't get enough steering on this dusty track. I removed the front sway bar and still pushes. What can I do for Max weight transfer and steering. The best I can do is snap the steering and punch the throttle to kinda drift the turn but if it's not perfect I just drift wide. I tried a few different tires but it's so dusty it won't turn in like I want.
Funny thing is my sct410.3 is perfect. Plenty of steering with a soft front end and no sway bar.
I think the stiff front suspension on the .3 when compressed is actually hurting me on this slippery track.
Any input would be great.
By the way I can run the SCt on bald tires and thing still turns on a dime but the front doesn't get so progressively stiffer like the eb so it leans real nice and bites in.
Here are a few things you can try.
1. Remove the bottom of the front shock boots. Cut the bottom most part that forms a seal on the shock shaft. This will give you more up travel and eliminate the progressive feeling of the front suspension.

2. See if anything is binding on the front and rear suspension. Verify the hinge pins are free and can fall vertically through the arm. Make sure all pivot balls are free. Check the front shocks and make sure they are not binding.

3. Sounds like the rear of your vehicle has too much traction while turning.
a. Try raising the rear roll center (raise the rear inner hinge pin, lower the rear inner camber link). Running a shorter rear camber link will help the vehicle exit corners quicker.

4. Try front arm sweep back. Run the outermost hinge pin inserts in the A block.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:30 AM
  #15013  
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Tried soft hole shots lock downs and aka catapults all soft compound.
Stock shock springs and oils. 5-5-5 diff oils. Stock rear sway no front sway. Camber links up on the front tower and mid on rear tower.

Was gonna try a harder compound tire but not sure if that will hurt or help.
I also went up to 15k in the center diff and liked it better. I could use power to turn it and on the slippery track it puts power down better
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:49 AM
  #15014  
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Originally Posted by MattDub
Here are a few things you can try.
1. Remove the bottom of the front shock boots. Cut the bottom most part that forms a seal on the shock shaft. This will give you more up travel and eliminate the progressive feeling of the front suspension.

2. See if anything is binding on the front and rear suspension. Verify the hinge pins are free and can fall vertically through the arm. Make sure all pivot balls are free. Check the front shocks and make sure they are not binding.

3. Sounds like the rear of your vehicle has too much traction while turning.
a. Try raising the rear roll center (raise the rear inner hinge pin, lower the rear inner camber link). Running a shorter rear camber link will help the vehicle exit corners quicker.

4. Try front arm sweep back. Run the outermost hinge pin inserts in the A block.
Everything is free I checked and reamed the arms .
I haven't tried the boots or aem sweep so I'll will try that for sure. I messed with roll center but not with rear camber link length so I'll try that also thank you!!!
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:00 PM
  #15015  
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Originally Posted by Dragonfueled
Tried soft hole shots lock downs and aka catapults all soft compound.
Stock shock springs and oils. 5-5-5 diff oils. Stock rear sway no front sway. Camber links up on the front tower and mid on rear tower.

Was gonna try a harder compound tire but not sure if that will hurt or help.
I also went up to 15k in the center diff and liked it better. I could use power to turn it and on the slippery track it puts power down better
Try 7 7 5 diffs lockdowns suck on loose dusty tracks I think I like aka cityblocks on loose dusty tracks. Try front camber in middle hole and outer on the hub. Pm me your email or cell number and I will send you a setup sheet that I was using for low traction. Only thing you may wanna cage on it is shock oil weights for the temperature outside.
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