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Originally Posted by teeforb
(Post 10530793)
thanks! i'm assuming the remaining gears and bearings work as the t4, correct?
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Originally Posted by daverobbo5
(Post 10530997)
I should know this one. It doesn't have the T4 but the 2.6 ratio is the same as the B4
27/75 gives a 7.22 FDR I've got a 29T pinion to drop it to 6.8FDR if needed http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9538/t4gear.jpg |
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...us_Classic.pdf
new t4 setup from the classic, cavs didnt change very much. i like seeing what avid springs on the truck tho... now just to find out where to order them hah. |
I'm dying for the BB's to come out. The FTSC10 4x4 has big bores, and all the factory drivers are using them. Can't be long. I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on the Losi BB springs and Traxxas collars when I know the AE stuff is around the corner.
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Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 10539263)
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...us_Classic.pdf
new t4 setup from the classic, cavs didnt change very much. i like seeing what avid springs on the truck tho... now just to find out where to order them hah. Those Avid BB springs are NICE. Friend of mine got a set last week. I just got my T4.1 FT on Thursday :) Going to be racing it next week.. |
Originally Posted by Hinecken
(Post 10540363)
I'm dying for the BB's to come out. The FTSC10 4x4 has big bores, and all the factory drivers are using them. Can't be long. I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on the Losi BB springs and Traxxas collars when I know the AE stuff is around the corner.
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Race Results!
1 Attachment(s)
We had a big race in Nashville TN yesterday. The Thunder RC Winter Champs, at Thunder R/C Speedway. 101 entries! This was the biggest turnout we've ever had at Thunder, a lot of guys came from the surrounding states.
I was running my T4.1 in MOD Truck, I qualified 4th in the A and ended up in 3rd place. I chased second down from 6 seconds back, and passed him but I got tangled up with lap traffic a few corners later and had to settle for 3rd. Not a bad day overall! I was running a standard T4.1 with .5 aluminum hub carriers and C towers, the rest of the truck is all stock. Using Cav's crcrc setup, it's a very tight track and I really could have used more low speed steering, but I made no changes to the truck all day and it was dialed by the mains. For electronics I'm running a Futaba low pro steering servo, Castle MMP, Reedy Sonic 7.5, Gens Ace 5000 40c battery, Losi red BK Bars stock foams. |
Originally Posted by LoudOne
(Post 10500841)
A few photos of my FT T4... I put some old school Square Fuzzies on the back..
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...1018/003-1.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...1018/001-2.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...1018/002-1.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...1018/005-1.jpg |
I was going over the Ryan Cavalari setup sheet that was posted earlier. Does anyone know what they mean by "shaved brace" on the rear setup ? I'm assuming they are shaving that brace flat where the ball stud screws in. I'm trying to get my truck to turn better when lightly on throttle. It pushes pretty bad and it would be nice to get this thing to trun better. Thanks folks
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Originally Posted by copey70
(Post 10545416)
That's a good looking truck right there. Do the ST parts help on it ? I have thought about upgrading some of my parts buy hear to much aluminum is a bad thing. I'm hoping someone has already been down that road and know which parts help versus hurt.
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yes, shave it flat, but only if you are running the C tower on the hubs. if you want more steering either reduce the front camber link space from 2mm to 1mm or add a .030 space under the inner rear ballstud. Cav's setup is a bit on the pushy side.
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Originally Posted by driftkinginc
(Post 10546735)
Alum. parts just sent the stress to other parts, aka the A arms or whatever they are attached to . I see no benifits in alum parts in offroad. Thats why you dont see the factory guys running a bunch of alloy parts on there cars .
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Originally Posted by markt311
(Post 10546755)
yes, shave it flat, but only if you are running the C tower on the hubs. if you want more steering either reduce the front camber link space from 2mm to 1mm or add a .030 space under the inner rear ballstud. Cav's setup is a bit on the pushy side.
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Originally Posted by Hinecken
(Post 10546773)
Why only with the C tower?
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In my experience, you lose sidebite and/or need less rear negative camber if you dont combine the lower inner and outer studs together.
Raising the inner stud rolls more, lowering the outer stud rolls more. Lowering them both equal amounts changes rollcenter without negatively affecting camber gain. |
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