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-   -   RC10T4.1 Thread. (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/580759-rc10t4-1-thread.html)

Hinecken 03-28-2012 07:46 AM


Originally Posted by Drtdvl5 (Post 10527149)
this is the setup i was looking at. question was what the motor may be in Turns? just for class placement knowledge.

:confused:http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_221_911_1949/products_id/156421/n/Castle-Creations-Mamba-Max-Pro-1-10-Scale-Brushless-Car-Package-w-Neu-Castle-1406-5700kV[/URL]

For class placement you would be in Open Mod.

bds81175 03-28-2012 08:09 AM


Originally Posted by Drtdvl5 (Post 10527149)
this is the setup i was looking at. question was what the motor may be in Turns? just for class placement knowledge.

:confused:http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_221_911_1949/products_id/156421/n/Castle-Creations-Mamba-Max-Pro-1-10-Scale-Brushless-Car-Package-w-Neu-Castle-1406-5700kV[/url]

That's a ton of motor. They are pretting smooth for a sensorless motor but not as smooth as a sensored by any stretch. There's nothing wrong with turning down the power and punch control. You won't win races when your head lights are pointed at the sky. :lol::lol:

Drtdvl5 03-28-2012 08:40 AM


Originally Posted by bds81175 (Post 10527460)
That's a ton of motor. They are pretting smooth for a sensorless motor but not as smooth as a sensored by any stretch. There's nothing wrong with turning down the power and punch control. You won't win races when your head lights are pointed at the sky. :lol::lol:

completely agree lol. well ill keep that setup in mind. im really wanting to swamp to a better esc/motor combo, but dont know which direction to go. im not quite familiar with a sensored motor as opposed to the sensorless simple rtr setup im using right now.:confused::lol:

MarkA 03-28-2012 08:42 AM

It is very difficult to run a fast lap time with a sensorless setup in any 2wd vehicle regardless of how fast you get down the straight.

I would advise looking for a used race-grade setup as you can often pair something like a used LRP with a new motor for about the same total cost.

ovalracer1m 03-28-2012 09:20 AM


Originally Posted by Drtdvl5 (Post 10527606)
completely agree lol. well ill keep that setup in mind. im really wanting to swamp to a better esc/motor combo, but dont know which direction to go. im not quite familiar with a sensored motor as opposed to the sensorless simple rtr setup im using right now.:confused::lol:

if you want a dialed sensored setup on the cheap, get a 60A Hobbywing Xerun and a sensored motor above 8.5T of your choice. Esc is $65 and a good sensored motor is $75-$85. You will love this setup. Works great and is bulletproof. Anybody that tells you any different has either not tried it or are brand biased.

bds81175 03-28-2012 09:53 AM

I've seen Noah's cars running the Hobbywing stuff. Super fast, although he usually gets his butt kicked by a 15 year old.

ovalracer1m 03-28-2012 11:13 AM


Originally Posted by bds81175 (Post 10527911)
I've seen Noah's cars running the Hobbywing stuff. Super fast, although he usually gets his butt kicked by a 15 year old.

haha, he was beating me when i ran an RT5 but my first day back with a T4 he got beat :lol: Feels good to be back with AE cars. The RT5 is a great truck but just didnt fit my driving style.

zeakemedia 03-28-2012 11:46 AM

Noah
I am a fan of the Crowd Pleaser as well and I am looking forward to getting my sprint season started. I was there when he set the record at Eldora. Do you make it to many races?

teeforb 03-28-2012 10:58 PM

hey guys, i have a t4. I purchased the gear diff today just to find out nothing fits. What all do i need to by to get the gear diff working on the t4? Not even the bearings fit. :( PLEASE HELP!

if you guys can just give me the list of part numbers, that'll be great!

ovalracer1m 03-28-2012 11:05 PM

The gear diff is made to fit in the new .1 diff case that uses metric bearings. You need the new cases, bearings, and Lower chassis plate.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nsmission-Case

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Bearing-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...is-Plate-B4-T4

racer1812 03-28-2012 11:07 PM


Originally Posted by teeforb (Post 10530772)
hey guys, i have a t4. I purchased the gear diff today just to find out nothing fits. What all do i need to by to get the gear diff working on the t4? Not even the bearings fit. :( PLEASE HELP!

if you guys can just give me the list of part numbers, that'll be great!

tranny case and out drive bearings for a t4.1, they went to metric bearings, this is why it won't fit your t4.

gguertin145 03-28-2012 11:08 PM

dont leave out that the 15 year old is stupid fast and never makes mistakes...

teeforb 03-28-2012 11:11 PM


Originally Posted by ovalracer1m (Post 10530778)
The gear diff is made to fit in the new .1 diff case that uses metric bearings. You need the new cases, bearings, and Lower chassis plate.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nsmission-Case

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Bearing-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...is-Plate-B4-T4

thanks! i'm assuming the remaining gears and bearings work as the t4, correct?

daverobbo5 03-29-2012 01:55 AM


Originally Posted by Hinecken (Post 10526997)
That would really depend on th length of the straight. DaveRobbo, please check the link I posted to RCgearhead. The above sounds like a decent starting point for you. I would go with that and monitor your temps. Temp too high, gear up, too low and gear down.

Thanks Hinecken. I ment to thank you the other day. for whatever reason that website won't work right on my old win XP machine. got log on but no go. strange one. i will keep trying

It's only shortish straight at about 50 to 60 feet. a racer suggested aiming for a 7.0 FDR

i'll keep looking.

daverobbo5 03-29-2012 02:09 AM

This might work
 

Originally Posted by daverobbo5 (Post 10530975)
Thanks Hinecken. I ment to thank you the other day. for whatever reason that website won't work right on my old win XP machine. got log on but no go. strange one. i will keep trying

It's only shortish straight at about 50 to 60 feet. a racer suggested aiming for a 7.0 FDR

i'll keep looking.

I should know this one. It doesn't have the T4 but the 2.6 ratio is the same as the B4
27/75 gives a 7.22 FDR I've got a 29T pinion to drop it to 6.8FDR if needed

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9538/t4gear.jpg


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