Hinecken

Everyone's given great advice for your issue. Just wanted to add that I find a tiny dab of thread locker on my motor screws helps to keep the motor from moving after a good tumble. Before I used the thread locker, after a crash my gear mesh would be off, thread locker fixed that.

Going to give my truck a try tonight at the track. Installed the 19t pinion, rebuilt the shocks, and got some barcodes for the front. Hopefully my lap times will improve. Just gotta remind myself, baby steps, baby steps.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

love your sig. that's funny

Hinecken

True story...

Cain

iTrader: (294)

so for the factory Team T4.1, are they coming with carbon front a-arms or are they going with a standard plastic a-arm?

Reason I ask is that when looking into my SC10FT for parts, i noticed the stock number for the a-arms was the same as the regular SC10s. Heck, a lot of the parts are the same material.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

SC10, SC10 FT, T4.1, and B4.1 all have the same plastic. If you want carbon parts for any of them you have to find the carbon specific part numbers from the original T4/B4. T4/B4 had carbon and plastic parts so make sure you get the right part number.

Hinecken

Regarding fluid in a gear dif. I remember from way back in my 1/8th days we used to tune with different fluids in the diffs. Why is it when I ask about running different weight fluid in this gear diff do people look at me like I'm crazy and tell me to stick with the grease? Can this gear diff not be tuned in a similar fashion? If so, what weight fluid would be a good baseline equal to the grease from the factory? I've been told 3k is similar.

mrubbermann01

Thanks! I'm going to try that today.

mrubbermann01

Thanks for the advice! I'm having a hard time trying to find the perfect mesh for the pinion and spur. I'm just tired of replacing the spur every time i take it out. My battery lasts longer than the spur.

mrubbermann01

everyone has been giving me great advice, I'm going to try the thread lock also, that sounds like a good idea.

bobbymbx5

Race my truck with bb springs last night and it did good not a big difference but seem to have a little more traction all around and little better jumping. I used siver rear 22 springs in front and yellow rear 22 in the back with traxxas 3768 upper/lower spring retainers they work good just have to get two of them cuz only come two to a bag but they r only 3.00 ea.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

nice i plan to run the 22t green springs in the front on the truck, the 3.2 silvers is alittle softer then i have noticed the truck likes.

wish they would come out with a tlr blue front or tlr green rear

bobbymbx5

Here is a video

+ YouTube Video

Hinecken

Ran my truck last night with the 19t pinion and the battery spaced slightly forward with a single foam block. Also added some barcodes up front. Wow, what a difference in handling and performance. Truck is actually controllable now. I just need to learn how to drive it.

Problem I've been having is my speed control keeps coming loose after a crash. Regardless of the servo tape I use, or how clean the contact surfaces are, it still comes loose. Any suggestions?

SirKarnage

iTrader: (123)

Is anyone Doing the hex conversion for the B4 front end on to your T4?

I just ordered the parts, plan to use the axels and spacers properly to just run my current Rulux rears without the hex, just the pin like the current rears are on the T4.

If you have any experience with this, post up!

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

clean with motor spray making sure to use a clean rag. FYI, new doesn't always mean clean either. We've all seen those red rags you can buy, ya I figured "they're new, they must be clean"......Wrong, they left a residue that you really couldn't see and I couldn't get servo tape or my chassis film to stick for the life of me.

If you use those red rags and wash them......don't wash them with anything else unless you want it pink