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Old 03-07-2012 | 10:56 AM
  #781  
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Originally Posted by joshuabordner
WHAT'S WRONG WITH THE STOCK BUMPER?
There's nothing wrong with the stock bumper if you like replacing aluminum parts after they are all worn away.
The DE racing bumper wraps under the front and protects the chassis. Bumper/skidplate
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Old 03-07-2012 | 10:57 AM
  #782  
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Or you could lawn dart a lot less.

Just kidding.
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Old 03-07-2012 | 11:27 AM
  #783  
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Originally Posted by heavyjeffd
Trim the inner bevel off of both plastic pieces, that's enough for proper camber when using the 3rd hole.
Cool thanks for the explanation!
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Old 03-07-2012 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN-
Don't forget to trim the tapered end off the plastic tie rod ends or you won't be able to get proper camber without them bottoming out.
Thanks for the into Brett, I didn't know we had to do that.
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Old 03-07-2012 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew Jensen
There's nothing wrong with the stock bumper if you like replacing aluminum parts after they are all worn away.
The DE racing bumper wraps under the front and protects the chassis. Bumper/skidplate
While skid plates do save the chassie plate they effect the way your car leaves the face of a jump. I have used them in the past and have seen a large differance when I removed them. I will never run another skid plate front or rear.
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Old 03-07-2012 | 12:53 PM
  #786  
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Originally Posted by reeltech
While skid plates do save the chassie plate they effect the way your car leaves the face of a jump. I have used them in the past and have seen a large differance when I removed them. I will never run another skid plate front or rear.
I just never felt the need for one. But I guess a lot of it depends on the surface you race on, driving style, etc.
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Old 03-07-2012 | 05:41 PM
  #787  
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Originally Posted by reeltech
While skid plates do save the chassie plate they effect the way your car leaves the face of a jump. I have used them in the past and have seen a large differance when I removed them. I will never run another skid plate front or rear.
They work well on the 8ight but are horrible on the AE.
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Old 03-07-2012 | 07:06 PM
  #788  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Looking to run the bulldog body, does pretty much any 4s battery fit in or do you have to run a soft pack??
i put a shock piston under the front body mount to raise the front body mount, front of body is still below the hole in the shock tower and then no more chopping holes in the front corner for hardpacks.
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Old 03-07-2012 | 07:14 PM
  #789  
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Old 03-07-2012 | 08:19 PM
  #790  
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Originally Posted by -WHEELMAN-

pimpin!!
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Old 03-08-2012 | 06:23 AM
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Hey guys,

I's there an easy way to get the larger 15x21x4mm bearing out of the front hub? I cant get it out for the life of me! Will heating the aluminum make it easier?
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Old 03-08-2012 | 07:40 AM
  #792  
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Originally Posted by Lapster v2
Hey guys,

I's there an easy way to get the larger 15x21x4mm bearing out of the front hub? I cant get it out for the life of me! Will heating the aluminum make it easier?
Put it in the freezer for an hour or two and try to pop it out.
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Old 03-08-2012 | 07:50 AM
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What exactly does freezing it do?
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Old 03-08-2012 | 07:56 AM
  #794  
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Originally Posted by Lapster v2
What exactly does freezing it do?
Reduces the size of the bearing, hopefully more than it reduces the size of the steering knuckle.

You dont need to leave them in there for that long normally, toss em in there for 15 min see if that works, if not try it a little longer.
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Old 03-08-2012 | 09:36 AM
  #795  
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I'm thinkin just the opposite. Alum ( I'm assuming the hub is Alum? ) is going to be more susceptible to temperature than the steel from the bearings. Try heating it up a bit. My .02

Now, if you were trying to install it, then you would freeze the bearing.
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