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Old 10-16-2013, 01:08 PM
  #5401  
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Originally Posted by Cody227
rear outdrive of the center diff and the pin in the center-cvd wears the most. Hardly no wear on the front and rear diffs/cvds compared to the centerdiff. (RC8b high grip with 2s setup)
Hi Cody227,

Thank you for your answer,
It's the same case for me, the center one is the first one.
I found the pictures then this is an example of my center ones :





Now I think it's more concrete.
If you have this "level" of wear, can you tell me how many packs do you have to run before the shaft pins look like the ones on my pictures ?
(whatever it's for front, rear or center position)
Thanks,
Bye !
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:59 PM
  #5402  
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i can't tell how many packs because i got the car used and it was already quite worn, but i think the outdrives wear pretty fast considering that i only use 2s. But i won't replace them unless it makes a significant difference in handling.
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Yello
It has the updated +3mm chassis (the "gold" color). There was a chassis prior to the one that is "gold" and it was not very durable from what I've read.

I've had no issues with mine so far.
Well my rtr has a black chassis. Is that still a +3mm chassis just like the kit version?
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Austin214
Well my rtr has a black chassis. Is that still a +3mm chassis just like the kit version?
Hi Austin214,

The +3mm chassis is, at the beginning, an option for the RC8B.
Then it's now on the RC8.2, all versions, even the RTR version you have.
The 89476 ref named "RC8B +3mm chassis" is existing in two versions, the gold one and the black one, but they are both the same about the dimensions.
Now, I don't really know if there is a material difference, and what's about the treatment.
Your chassis is the +3mm version.
Bye !
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:46 PM
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When I finally get the car moving in reverse and attempt to change direction, there is no brake. The buggy just slams into forward regardless of how fast the wheels are spinning. After the first time seeing this I'm paranoid about even going in reverse.

According to the manual, this ESC should not do this. Anyone else get this behavior?
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:48 PM
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For most if not all ESCs, there is no braking while going in reverse. So I try to ease into forward to protect the gears, or I let my buggy slow to a standstill before I change direction.

I've had problems with the RTR ESCs going into reverse at all. But after tweeking the trims and such on the transmitter, and calibrating the ESC to it, I consistently get it to go in reverse after a 1 second delay. I'd rather there be NO delay, but I can live with it.
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:15 AM
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This isn't an esc issue guys its the rtr radio issue, when I first got an rtr I had the same issue. Well the radio lost its bind and would not rebind contacted ae and was told np send it in and in 7-12 days we will have a new one out to you. Well me being me and not wanting to wait I bought an m11x radio system and never had an issue with reverse again.

The outdrive wear you guys are asking about is normal and will not affect performance. I have 60 hours on my rtr and going on 110 hours on my factory team car and while I have changed the shafts once on each car replacing the outdrive cups has not been necessary. Mostly what the car will need changed most often will be the bearings.
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:28 AM
  #5408  
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New body mounted and ready to fight!

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Old 10-17-2013, 06:45 AM
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Nice man! You running aka impacts?
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:21 PM
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With a 45 tooth spur gear,what pinion should i use with a tekin 2650 motor. I know its way overkill
but my other motor went south and its all i have for the last outdoor race of our season. Plan on dialin it down a ton and hopin for the best.
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mv91pony
With a 45 tooth spur gear,what pinion should i use with a tekin 2650 motor. I know its way overkill
but my other motor went south and its all i have for the last outdoor race of our season. Plan on dialin it down a ton and hopin for the best.
Hi mv91pony,
I don't know where you find a 45 tooth spur gear, so maybe you have a fioroni diff ?
I recommend you a 17T max for the motor pinion.
Bye !
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:26 PM
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Its an ae plastic spur. Might be a 46. my bad. Was thinkin 14 to15 range. Have a 17 on a 1700 tekin and its pretty fast down the straitaway for a 1700. Heat killed it though. Not at once but enuf runs coming in at 175 to 185 degrees takes its toll.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:35 PM
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Hi mv91pony
Yes you are right, 14to15 will be the best, I just wanted to say that in every cases, 17T will be the max. Depends of the track, your esc set-up....
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:23 PM
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homershoot: I suspected the reverse issue is a transmitter issue. But I kind of like the analog controls. My other radio controller is a Flysky and I haven't bothered to put it in yet; and although I like the Flysky too, I like the analog controls better. Also, the AE radio seems to last a lot longer. I haven't had to recharge my transmitter batteries yet.

Blacktiger355: I like the shell! The one thing I don't however like about the cab-forward shells on the Rc8.2e is that I imagine the cockpit would get damaged a lot on bad turn overs since it's taller than the shock towers. Nice paint, though.

---

Anyone know the benefits of the blue alloy "top plate"? Seems mostly useless except that it adds pretty "blue bling" to the buggy.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:33 PM
  #5415  
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converted my nitro to ebuggy, first one and its a lot of fun!! tight class at my track. Anyone using raps on there lids? what site and whats a good turn around time on it? thanks !
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