Team Associated RC8.2e Thread
#5401
Thank you for your answer,
It's the same case for me, the center one is the first one.
I found the pictures then this is an example of my center ones :
Now I think it's more concrete.
If you have this "level" of wear, can you tell me how many packs do you have to run before the shaft pins look like the ones on my pictures ?
(whatever it's for front, rear or center position)
Thanks,
Bye !
#5402
Tech Regular
i can't tell how many packs because i got the car used and it was already quite worn, but i think the outdrives wear pretty fast considering that i only use 2s. But i won't replace them unless it makes a significant difference in handling.
#5403
Tech Adept
Well my rtr has a black chassis. Is that still a +3mm chassis just like the kit version?
#5404
The +3mm chassis is, at the beginning, an option for the RC8B.
Then it's now on the RC8.2, all versions, even the RTR version you have.
The 89476 ref named "RC8B +3mm chassis" is existing in two versions, the gold one and the black one, but they are both the same about the dimensions.
Now, I don't really know if there is a material difference, and what's about the treatment.
Your chassis is the +3mm version.
Bye !
#5405
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
When I finally get the car moving in reverse and attempt to change direction, there is no brake. The buggy just slams into forward regardless of how fast the wheels are spinning. After the first time seeing this I'm paranoid about even going in reverse.
According to the manual, this ESC should not do this. Anyone else get this behavior?
According to the manual, this ESC should not do this. Anyone else get this behavior?
#5406
Tech Adept
For most if not all ESCs, there is no braking while going in reverse. So I try to ease into forward to protect the gears, or I let my buggy slow to a standstill before I change direction.
I've had problems with the RTR ESCs going into reverse at all. But after tweeking the trims and such on the transmitter, and calibrating the ESC to it, I consistently get it to go in reverse after a 1 second delay. I'd rather there be NO delay, but I can live with it.
I've had problems with the RTR ESCs going into reverse at all. But after tweeking the trims and such on the transmitter, and calibrating the ESC to it, I consistently get it to go in reverse after a 1 second delay. I'd rather there be NO delay, but I can live with it.
#5407
Tech Regular
This isn't an esc issue guys its the rtr radio issue, when I first got an rtr I had the same issue. Well the radio lost its bind and would not rebind contacted ae and was told np send it in and in 7-12 days we will have a new one out to you. Well me being me and not wanting to wait I bought an m11x radio system and never had an issue with reverse again.
The outdrive wear you guys are asking about is normal and will not affect performance. I have 60 hours on my rtr and going on 110 hours on my factory team car and while I have changed the shafts once on each car replacing the outdrive cups has not been necessary. Mostly what the car will need changed most often will be the bearings.
The outdrive wear you guys are asking about is normal and will not affect performance. I have 60 hours on my rtr and going on 110 hours on my factory team car and while I have changed the shafts once on each car replacing the outdrive cups has not been necessary. Mostly what the car will need changed most often will be the bearings.
#5409
Tech Regular
Nice man! You running aka impacts?
#5410
With a 45 tooth spur gear,what pinion should i use with a tekin 2650 motor. I know its way overkill
but my other motor went south and its all i have for the last outdoor race of our season. Plan on dialin it down a ton and hopin for the best.
but my other motor went south and its all i have for the last outdoor race of our season. Plan on dialin it down a ton and hopin for the best.
#5411
I don't know where you find a 45 tooth spur gear, so maybe you have a fioroni diff ?
I recommend you a 17T max for the motor pinion.
Bye !
#5412
Its an ae plastic spur. Might be a 46. my bad. Was thinkin 14 to15 range. Have a 17 on a 1700 tekin and its pretty fast down the straitaway for a 1700. Heat killed it though. Not at once but enuf runs coming in at 175 to 185 degrees takes its toll.
#5413
Hi mv91pony
Yes you are right, 14to15 will be the best, I just wanted to say that in every cases, 17T will be the max. Depends of the track, your esc set-up....
Bye !
Yes you are right, 14to15 will be the best, I just wanted to say that in every cases, 17T will be the max. Depends of the track, your esc set-up....
Bye !
#5414
Tech Adept
homershoot: I suspected the reverse issue is a transmitter issue. But I kind of like the analog controls. My other radio controller is a Flysky and I haven't bothered to put it in yet; and although I like the Flysky too, I like the analog controls better. Also, the AE radio seems to last a lot longer. I haven't had to recharge my transmitter batteries yet.
Blacktiger355: I like the shell! The one thing I don't however like about the cab-forward shells on the Rc8.2e is that I imagine the cockpit would get damaged a lot on bad turn overs since it's taller than the shock towers. Nice paint, though.
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Anyone know the benefits of the blue alloy "top plate"? Seems mostly useless except that it adds pretty "blue bling" to the buggy.
Blacktiger355: I like the shell! The one thing I don't however like about the cab-forward shells on the Rc8.2e is that I imagine the cockpit would get damaged a lot on bad turn overs since it's taller than the shock towers. Nice paint, though.
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Anyone know the benefits of the blue alloy "top plate"? Seems mostly useless except that it adds pretty "blue bling" to the buggy.
#5415
converted my nitro to ebuggy, first one and its a lot of fun!! tight class at my track. Anyone using raps on there lids? what site and whats a good turn around time on it? thanks !