17LikesTeam Associated RC8.2e Thread
10-11-2013, 11:51 AM
#5371
I also run the 1256tg and love it. I run all savox servo's in all of my cars, last servo's you will ever buy IMO. If you are running Spektrum (as my son and I both do) you have to be sure you are running DSM2 TX/RX's. The brown out/glitch problems are completely gone when running a DSM2 system. No need for caps/glitch busters at all anymore. At least that has been my experiences over the last year of running DSM2.
10-11-2013, 09:47 PM
#5372
Tech Adept
Today my RC8.2E died for a second. It works now. But the ESC was flopping around. If you have the RTR, don't delude yourself into thinking it won't happen to you. It's only a matter of time before that ESC comes loose. I'd highly recommend strapping it down with zipties or something.
10-11-2013, 09:49 PM
#5373
Tech Adept
I'm still a bit fixated on chassis braces. I feel as though I'm setting myself up for a bad break if I don't upgrade, since I don't mind a broken plastic chassis brace but what if the chassis bends too?
Are the aluminum rod braces good upgrade vs the alloy chassis brace?
Apparently the Rc8t uses it:
https://www.google.com/search?q=ASC8...&bih=370&dpr=1
I wonder if the above would fit the RC8.2.
Seems like the rods give the best of both worlds - flex/traction AND protection.
Are the aluminum rod braces good upgrade vs the alloy chassis brace?
Apparently the Rc8t uses it:
https://www.google.com/search?q=ASC8...&bih=370&dpr=1
I wonder if the above would fit the RC8.2.
Seems like the rods give the best of both worlds - flex/traction AND protection.
10-12-2013, 03:28 AM
#5374
Tech Regular
I'd say the rod braces have the worst feel because they develop slop really fast and thus have the least linear flex-characteristics and that makes the car unpredictible. At the moment i prefer front alu-brace, rear plastic-brace on a highbite indoor track.
10-12-2013, 07:50 AM
#5375
Tech Regular
Today my RC8.2E died for a second. It works now. But the ESC was flopping around. If you have the RTR, don't delude yourself into thinking it won't happen to you. It's only a matter of time before that ESC comes loose. I'd highly recommend strapping it down with zipties or something.
10-12-2013, 10:10 AM
#5377
Tech Regular
it would have even more flex then the plastic brace wouldn't it? I found that the alu brace on high traction calmed the steering down, it was a bit less steering but also more predictible and the car somehow felt more responsive. Even though it weighs nearly 2 times as much as the plastic brace (and im running the car with 2s!) i wouldn't go back to a more flexible setup.
10-12-2013, 01:39 PM
#5378
Out of curiosity,
Has anyone tried smaller 10th scale electronics and 4pole 10th scale motor in the 8th scale?
Was discussing this with a fellow racer and how plausible it is. We race on a smaller indoor 10th scale track and if some expansion takes place, its possible they will allow 8th scale buggy, but imo 4s would be too much, so the discussion about the use of 2s or 3s and smaller systems so not to overpower them.
Thoughts?
Momo
Has anyone tried smaller 10th scale electronics and 4pole 10th scale motor in the 8th scale?
Was discussing this with a fellow racer and how plausible it is. We race on a smaller indoor 10th scale track and if some expansion takes place, its possible they will allow 8th scale buggy, but imo 4s would be too much, so the discussion about the use of 2s or 3s and smaller systems so not to overpower them.
Thoughts?
Momo
10-12-2013, 01:44 PM
#5379
Tech Regular
many people at my track (me included) are doing that, we converted our rc8s to shortcourse. It definitely is possible, but i wouldn't recommend using 2s packs unless you are limited to them. With >3.1kg you have to spend a fortune in good batteries and electronics to be competetive but with 3s it's cheap enough. I am still struggling with the idea to change to 3s because it wouldn't be legal then. I can post a pic of my truck tomorrow
10-12-2013, 03:17 PM
#5380
Tech Initiate
Ran my 8.2e at the track today fun times!
The binding light on the RTR transmitter constantly flashes. I tried the binding process and no change???
The binding light on the RTR transmitter constantly flashes. I tried the binding process and no change???
10-12-2013, 05:24 PM
#5381
Out of curiosity,
Has anyone tried smaller 10th scale electronics and 4pole 10th scale motor in the 8th scale?
Was discussing this with a fellow racer and how plausible it is. We race on a smaller indoor 10th scale track and if some expansion takes place, its possible they will allow 8th scale buggy, but imo 4s would be too much, so the discussion about the use of 2s or 3s and smaller systems so not to overpower them.
Thoughts?
Momo
Has anyone tried smaller 10th scale electronics and 4pole 10th scale motor in the 8th scale?
Was discussing this with a fellow racer and how plausible it is. We race on a smaller indoor 10th scale track and if some expansion takes place, its possible they will allow 8th scale buggy, but imo 4s would be too much, so the discussion about the use of 2s or 3s and smaller systems so not to overpower them.
Thoughts?
Momo
many people at my track (me included) are doing that, we converted our rc8s to shortcourse. It definitely is possible, but i wouldn't recommend using 2s packs unless you are limited to them. With >3.1kg you have to spend a fortune in good batteries and electronics to be competetive but with 3s it's cheap enough. I am still struggling with the idea to change to 3s because it wouldn't be legal then. I can post a pic of my truck tomorrow
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...c10-2-4wd.html
Its been done, and its very competitive and effective. Only problem is its at 299 mm's. Max legal width for 4x4 SC is 296.
Myself and another guy ran them on 2s with RevTech 4800kv 4 pole motors and Tekin RX8's for nearly 6-8 months and they worked great.
10-12-2013, 06:26 PM
#5382
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
I'm having a problem with reverse. The car takes more than 10 seconds after being stopped before it will let me drive reverse. I have not gone through the calibration process described in the ESC instructions. Could that be the problem? I get a pretty solid throttle range when I finally do get it to go in reverse. I had a hard time getting the tx to bind once today. Maybe related, or a fluke? The bind light is always flashing on the tx.
After bashing and some light track time the last two days I've noticed a few things about this RTR. Assembly quality is quite a bit lower than my previous experience with AE.
A sway bar link separated, it appears that the screw that holds the two plastic eyes together wasn't threaded all the way in. Nothing broken, it's just separated.
The tires weren't glued very well at all, spun one off and butchered the foam within 5 minutes....my bad for getting excited to try it out and not giving it a shakedown first.
Stickers were peeling. Nitpicky, but still makes me think shoddy QC.
Steering trim had to be adjusted nearly all the way left out of the box. The steering servo has about as much torque as a dead mouse.
and a few more odds and ends. I would strongly recommend that anyone purchasing the RTR completely dissect the car and reassemble it before doing anything strenuous. I'm still mostly pleased with the material quality but I'm really questioning what makes this buggy $150 better than the duratrax 835e.
After bashing and some light track time the last two days I've noticed a few things about this RTR. Assembly quality is quite a bit lower than my previous experience with AE.
A sway bar link separated, it appears that the screw that holds the two plastic eyes together wasn't threaded all the way in. Nothing broken, it's just separated.
The tires weren't glued very well at all, spun one off and butchered the foam within 5 minutes....my bad for getting excited to try it out and not giving it a shakedown first.
Stickers were peeling. Nitpicky, but still makes me think shoddy QC.
Steering trim had to be adjusted nearly all the way left out of the box. The steering servo has about as much torque as a dead mouse.
and a few more odds and ends. I would strongly recommend that anyone purchasing the RTR completely dissect the car and reassemble it before doing anything strenuous. I'm still mostly pleased with the material quality but I'm really questioning what makes this buggy $150 better than the duratrax 835e.
10-12-2013, 06:32 PM
#5383
I raced mine today at the track and the buggy was awesome I was doing really good came in second but didn't make the mains cause my servo horn got stripped I run a savox waterproof servo I guess it has to much torque cause this is my second horn that got stripped I need to get an aluminum one.
10-12-2013, 09:01 PM
#5384
Tech Regular
Marka the reverse problem is a known issue with the rtr radio, buy yourself a new radio and never look back, the sway bar links on the rtr will seperate easily especially if the droop isn't set correctly, get the ft links and swaybars (eBay or dollarhobbyz directly) center your trim back up then remove the servo horn screw and center that after doing that if the wheels still or off adjust the link from the servo horn till they are.
Marka and MO3racer loosen the servo saver adjustment nut some (make sure you can grab both sides of the saver and feel the spring action) the will help save the stock servo for a little while and prevent the plastic servo horn from breaking. An aluminium would be best though.
Marka and MO3racer loosen the servo saver adjustment nut some (make sure you can grab both sides of the saver and feel the spring action) the will help save the stock servo for a little while and prevent the plastic servo horn from breaking. An aluminium would be best though.
10-12-2013, 11:56 PM
#5385
it would have even more flex then the plastic brace wouldn't it? I found that the alu brace on high traction calmed the steering down, it was a bit less steering but also more predictible and the car somehow felt more responsive. Even though it weighs nearly 2 times as much as the plastic brace (and im running the car with 2s!) i wouldn't go back to a more flexible setup.
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html