Yello

Not all buggy wheel nuts are the same. The thread pitch for the Ofna wheel nuts, for example, are different from the AE. I learned that the hardway, after I wasted 12 bucks.

Try going to Harbor Freight where they sell thread locker/loctite for real cheap. I use the blue on my wheel nuts and never have a problem with them coming off.

For replacement wheel nuts, try this part number: ASC89094

Or: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350872779494...84.m1439.l2649

This is an even better deal:

http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/servlet/...ry-Team/Detail

BTW, Be sure to mind your steering EPA. I'm always careful to make sure the dual rate is not dialed up all the way as this might burn out the servo. Also, try loosening the steering horn/servo saver a few threads. I hear when that's tightened down too much, it puts a strain on the servo which can lead to the servo prematurely failing.

And, also, since I was asked for them through PM:

B-Plate part number and link: ASC89461 or http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A-Plate: ASC89460 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/350808304203...84.m1439.l2649

Tires:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw...at=0&_from=R40

20t pinion: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181193541350...84.m1439.l2649

And Mudguards: ASC 89561

^ IMO, essential upgrades. The mud guards are essential because w/o them I often get stones and pebbles jammed in the axles and dogbone outcups.

homershoots

Deffo good advice on the servo saver yello, on the rtr its way to tight from the factory. Upgade your servo then get yourself a good radio, everything else can wait. Great car enjoy! P.S. get yourself some spare steering block bushings and bolts-locktight and tighten the crap out of them.

Mizchief

Yes but be careful to only get loctite on the threads and not on the bushing, is normally what causes them to get loose. I got fed up and went with the vertical caster blocks once I rounded out the hub where the bushing fits in.

Rkapi128

I'm interested in a second 1/8 buggy. I've been looing at the RC8.2E and the Serpent 811BE. Both RTR. Any thoughts?

Devin

I have the RC8.2e rtr. I would not recommend it, the electronics are a poor value. This is the collective conclusions of 3 RS owners at our track:

3 dead servo's (2 within two weeks, the new upgraded servo that ships with newer packages lasted two months before seizing.

1 dead ESC
2 requiring replacing the ESC Deans. It can't seem to handle the heat (poor soldering?)

Tires are hard as a rock and of no use for racing


Far better value in buying a used roller and adding in a budget electric system.

RC RUSH

Thanks for all the comments.

Is it normal for the wheels not to move left to right by hand when the car is powered off? I was doing it on day 1 to see where the body was hitting the nut, today the wheels won't move???

Markah

iTrader: (2)

I just picked up an RC8.2e RTR and I'm curious what kind of current the stock esc/motor draws. I'm trying to figure out what batteries to get. I went ahead and picked up a 4s 5000mah 50c venom but I'd like to have more than just one when I'm at the track and I'd like to avoid paying that much for each one. I'm planning all 4s 5000mah and up.

Devin

My rtr will do about 25 minutes of track run time on 5200 mAh 60c. I would gt a 3800 mAh pack for racing. You need to run big 5000+ mAh pcks sideways to fit them under the body, and when you roll over, it damages the battery and especially the battery wires.

Guys are running like 30c without puffing.

Devin

Is it the rtr? The rtr servos are known to seize on day one, mine did. AE ships thr same servo as with their 2wd 10thscales, it is shameful.

Yello

I always hear of bad news for the servos for any RTR. But so far I've been lucky. I've been bashing for about 20 minutes almost everyday for the past week since I've gotten my new suspension mounts/plates in.

I try not to drive too often with the steering wheel locked extreme left or right and do backoff on the dual rate adjustment. These practices seem to be saving my servo, and I take care because I know it's an RTR servo, which means it's crap.

If it ever fails on me I'm going to buy a Turnigy 1259 titanium gear servo (60 degrees in .14 seconds at 6v, and 222 ounce/inch torque). Pretty darn good, and at half the price of a similarly speced Savox.

I love this buggy so far. And I love my bashing spots. Can't wait for it to rain again. And I'm looking forward to the snow.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

RTR's are good to play with but a kit is for racing. Building a kit is so valuable, it is a love hate for me building them. You just want to drive but have to deal with building but the first time it breaks you are thankful. The RC8.2e was my first eighth scale, bigger pain.

Running stock springs but looks like blue kyoshos are a standard, any thoughts?

Mizchief

I love building the kits, it's like legos or an erector set that can go 60mph in 2s. I was big into the plastic models as a kid as well.

RC RUSH

Yes RTR. Damn already lol

Will a spectrum 60/40 be a good upgrade? Or Hitech 795?

Mizchief

I like the Savox 1256TG in my 1/8 scale stuff. A little more power hungry so many need a cap when running spectrum rx's not saying it's any better that other brands but have had good experience with them personally and pretty good bang for the buck.

Devin

File a warranty claim with AE. You can keep in for a 10th scale 2WD or sell it nib to offset the hurt from having to buy a proper 8th scale servo.