Team Associated RC8.2e Thread
#3886
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Sorry man, I'm really not sure what you're referring to. Can you tell me what page in the manual covers this? All I see about Caster is the Red and Blue angle bushings. I got the kit second hand and have several of these bushings, red and blue. I'd like to reduce the Caster angle to "theoretically" get more steering in the middle of a 180 degree turn.
Edit: Ok I found the A plate and can drop a 1 dot bushing in. Is there no way to change the Caster at the hub? 16 seems like allot to me. I understand why several people would want to chill the steering out, but I want more.
Edit: Ok I found the A plate and can drop a 1 dot bushing in. Is there no way to change the Caster at the hub? 16 seems like allot to me. I understand why several people would want to chill the steering out, but I want more.
#3888
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Sorry man, I'm really not sure what you're referring to. Can you tell me what page in the manual covers this? All I see about Caster is the Red and Blue angle bushings. I got the kit second hand and have several of these bushings, red and blue. I'd like to reduce the Caster angle to "theoretically" get more steering in the middle of a 180 degree turn.
Edit: Ok I found the A plate and can drop a 1 dot bushing in. Is there no way to change the Caster at the hub? 16 seems like allot to me. I understand why several people would want to chill the steering out, but I want more.
Edit: Ok I found the A plate and can drop a 1 dot bushing in. Is there no way to change the Caster at the hub? 16 seems like allot to me. I understand why several people would want to chill the steering out, but I want more.
You cant make too many changes because the upper arms wont fit properly without changing more stuff. Thats why i suggested trying 1 dot in the A plate first, and as your only change.
You of course need to be sure your droop is the same as before, rideheight, etc. The idea is to feel the difference in kickup through the corner, moreso than the caster change.
#3889
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
You cant make too many changes because the upper arms wont fit properly without changing more stuff. Thats why i suggested trying 1 dot in the A plate first, and as your only change.
You of course need to be sure your droop is the same as before, rideheight, etc. The idea is to feel the difference in kickup through the corner, moreso than the caster change.
You of course need to be sure your droop is the same as before, rideheight, etc. The idea is to feel the difference in kickup through the corner, moreso than the caster change.
I really like this change because I feel that I'm adding steering rather than reducing rear traction to get the result I'm after. As long as the overall rotation remains, I'll happily replant the rear end as it was setup when I got the car.
Thank you!
#3890
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Well, I made the change and am impressed with the results. I got so much more steering that I plan to put 1 degree of rear toe back in. It now rotates through the corner much better.
I really like this change because I feel that I'm adding steering rather than reducing rear traction to get the result I'm after. As long as the overall rotation remains, I'll happily replant the rear end as it was setup when I got the car.
Thank you!
I really like this change because I feel that I'm adding steering rather than reducing rear traction to get the result I'm after. As long as the overall rotation remains, I'll happily replant the rear end as it was setup when I got the car.
Thank you!
On tracks with sweeping corners and medium sized turns, youll be surprised how much more speed through the corner you can carry (planted w/o rear grip loss). It only sucks on sharp faced jumps or severely rutted surfaces.
I had to modify the upper arm so it wouldnt bind between the shock tower insert and the top plate insert (shock off, suspension up and down freely) with my chosen kickup/caster/B plate/and upper arm position. Just a heads up to keep an eye out as you make adjustments.
#3891
Tech Rookie
Hello everybody. Which servo do you think would be better to use with a MMM : Ace 1015 or Savox SB 2271 SG ?
Of course I have the RC8.2 E and no other but I have this other doubt: should I put the ESc in 7 volts or like now in 6 volts? ( The Ace 1015 I think only goes in 6 volts)
Thanks in advance and a happy new year.
Of course I have the RC8.2 E and no other but I have this other doubt: should I put the ESc in 7 volts or like now in 6 volts? ( The Ace 1015 I think only goes in 6 volts)
Thanks in advance and a happy new year.
#3892
Tech Rookie
Hi everybody,
I just got a RTR package a few months ago and I must say I'm pretty happy with it. Of course, the servo is fairly slow and the car is doing poorly in the fast section of the track. Radio is not great either and manually adjusting the steering is a killer. I'm looking to get those two upgraded soon.
Other than that, pretty good!!! I like the car. It runs very smoothly, the motor-esc combo works great.
However, after 3 sessions at the track and 10 packs I am coming up with some questions.
Firstly, I have lost top and bottom knuckle screws on one side of the car. Is it something that regularly tends to get loose or just a thread locking oversight by the assembler?? What are you guys doing on your 8.2 to prevent this to happen?
Secondly, the ESC got loose as well from the chassis. It was just held by a sticky foam. That doesn't seem reliable. I am new to E-chassis but it looks a weak mount to me. Is there any best practice to hold the ESC onto the chassis?
Last one, regarding the shocks. The one provided in the RTR pack looks okay, anybody has tried those compared to the large bores? Do they worth it?
Thanks!!!
I just got a RTR package a few months ago and I must say I'm pretty happy with it. Of course, the servo is fairly slow and the car is doing poorly in the fast section of the track. Radio is not great either and manually adjusting the steering is a killer. I'm looking to get those two upgraded soon.
Other than that, pretty good!!! I like the car. It runs very smoothly, the motor-esc combo works great.
However, after 3 sessions at the track and 10 packs I am coming up with some questions.
Firstly, I have lost top and bottom knuckle screws on one side of the car. Is it something that regularly tends to get loose or just a thread locking oversight by the assembler?? What are you guys doing on your 8.2 to prevent this to happen?
Secondly, the ESC got loose as well from the chassis. It was just held by a sticky foam. That doesn't seem reliable. I am new to E-chassis but it looks a weak mount to me. Is there any best practice to hold the ESC onto the chassis?
Last one, regarding the shocks. The one provided in the RTR pack looks okay, anybody has tried those compared to the large bores? Do they worth it?
Thanks!!!
#3893
Tech Initiate
Hi everybody,
I just got a RTR package a few months ago and I must say I'm pretty happy with it. Of course, the servo is fairly slow and the car is doing poorly in the fast section of the track. Radio is not great either and manually adjusting the steering is a killer. I'm looking to get those two upgraded soon.
Other than that, pretty good!!! I like the car. It runs very smoothly, the motor-esc combo works great.
However, after 3 sessions at the track and 10 packs I am coming up with some questions.
Firstly, I have lost top and bottom knuckle screws on one side of the car. Is it something that regularly tends to get loose or just a thread locking oversight by the assembler?? What are you guys doing on your 8.2 to prevent this to happen?
Secondly, the ESC got loose as well from the chassis. It was just held by a sticky foam. That doesn't seem reliable. I am new to E-chassis but it looks a weak mount to me. Is there any best practice to hold the ESC onto the chassis?
Last one, regarding the shocks. The one provided in the RTR pack looks okay, anybody has tried those compared to the large bores? Do they worth it?
Thanks!!!
I just got a RTR package a few months ago and I must say I'm pretty happy with it. Of course, the servo is fairly slow and the car is doing poorly in the fast section of the track. Radio is not great either and manually adjusting the steering is a killer. I'm looking to get those two upgraded soon.
Other than that, pretty good!!! I like the car. It runs very smoothly, the motor-esc combo works great.
However, after 3 sessions at the track and 10 packs I am coming up with some questions.
Firstly, I have lost top and bottom knuckle screws on one side of the car. Is it something that regularly tends to get loose or just a thread locking oversight by the assembler?? What are you guys doing on your 8.2 to prevent this to happen?
Secondly, the ESC got loose as well from the chassis. It was just held by a sticky foam. That doesn't seem reliable. I am new to E-chassis but it looks a weak mount to me. Is there any best practice to hold the ESC onto the chassis?
Last one, regarding the shocks. The one provided in the RTR pack looks okay, anybody has tried those compared to the large bores? Do they worth it?
Thanks!!!
#3894
Tech Addict
iTrader: (38)
[QUOTE=joshuabordner;11630498]
Here ya go bro... http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=35792813653
#3897
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (53)
Can someone tell me how these optional pins work. Do they fit right in the arms? Or do I need something else to make them work??
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPYJ&P=Z
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPYJ&P=Z
#3898
Thanks for the carbon fiber link,..........if anybody knows if
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Hinge-Pins-4
are similar to the stock ones or are they ok to use
Thanks josh
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Hinge-Pins-4
are similar to the stock ones or are they ok to use
Thanks josh
#3899
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (53)
Can someone tell me how these optional pins work. Do they fit right in the arms? Or do I need something else to make them work??
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPYJ&P=Z
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPYJ&P=Z
#3900
Josh- I can't recall for the life of me which is which, but the Standard B plate and the Low B plate use different hinge pins so it would depend on which plate you have.
Car, those are for the Verticle Caster Blocks, in which case, you would also need...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPYH&P=M
and
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPYG&P=M
Car, those are for the Verticle Caster Blocks, in which case, you would also need...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPYH&P=M
and
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCPYG&P=M