TLR 22T Thread
#3154
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
#3155
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
And WHY do they have to release it in aluminum????? WHY can't they make it in plastic too so we don't have to spend fifty fricken dollars on a part that doesn't need to be aluminum????? They do this crap with the 8ight too. I can't even change the castor on my 8ight without spending like $100. Pisses me off.
#3158
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Extra springs are cheap, wheels aren't too bad either. The body isn't necessary. Most of us will probably never use the mid motor set up. But this isn't anything to do with what's included with the kit. An aluminum part is considered an upgrade. Going from inline spindles to trailing spindles isn't an upgrade, it's a set up change. I shouldn't have to "upgrade" my spindles to make a set up change. Plastic spindles cost about $8. Aluminum are $50. Am I ever going to need the strength of the aluminum spindles? Probably not. Haven't broken one yet, and I've been racing mine every week since they released the truck (I got mine when the first shipment went out). The aluminum spindle isn't necessary, it's an option. Therefore I shouldn't have to pay the $50 to make a set up change. When Associated releases different parts for their cars, the release them in plastic and aluminum. In fact, my T4 had inline AND trailing spindles in plastic as an option from the start. Losi should do the same.
#3162
Tech Regular
Im not 100% but I have a good idea why the spindles are aluminum and most other aftermarket parts are aluminum for that matter.
To make plastic parts you have to make a mold, which cost a LOT of money. They would have to sell a ton of spindles to justify that cost. In the long run it a better option for the manufacturer to go with aluminum, because you can michine them out one by one. You could say that's not fair to the consumer but if they made a new mold for that spindle, that manufacturing cost would have to be added somewhere. I'm sure there are other cost associated with making a plastic part as well.
Just my thoughts.
To make plastic parts you have to make a mold, which cost a LOT of money. They would have to sell a ton of spindles to justify that cost. In the long run it a better option for the manufacturer to go with aluminum, because you can michine them out one by one. You could say that's not fair to the consumer but if they made a new mold for that spindle, that manufacturing cost would have to be added somewhere. I'm sure there are other cost associated with making a plastic part as well.
Just my thoughts.
#3163
TLRacing
iTrader: (25)
And WHY do they have to release it in aluminum????? WHY can't they make it in plastic too so we don't have to spend fifty fricken dollars on a part that doesn't need to be aluminum????? They do this crap with the 8ight too. I can't even change the castor on my 8ight without spending like $100. Pisses me off.
Extra springs are cheap, wheels aren't too bad either. The body isn't necessary. Most of us will probably never use the mid motor set up. But this isn't anything to do with what's included with the kit. An aluminum part is considered an upgrade. Going from inline spindles to trailing spindles isn't an upgrade, it's a set up change. I shouldn't have to "upgrade" my spindles to make a set up change. Plastic spindles cost about $8. Aluminum are $50. Am I ever going to need the strength of the aluminum spindles? Probably not. Haven't broken one yet, and I've been racing mine every week since they released the truck (I got mine when the first shipment went out). The aluminum spindle isn't necessary, it's an option. Therefore I shouldn't have to pay the $50 to make a set up change. When Associated releases different parts for their cars, the release them in plastic and aluminum. In fact, my T4 had inline AND trailing spindles in plastic as an option from the start. Losi should do the same.
Please look through the 22 and let me know how many parts you find in aluminum that do not have plastic counter parts. I can only think of 2, wider hexes (more consistent track width without plastic compression) and rear toe blocks (these need to be aluminum to be durable/reliable).
All companies have some parts that only make sense to offer in aluminum as a tuning option. The B4(.1) only has aluminum rear hubs if you want to try additional rear toe (+.5, +1.0) as an example.
Trust me when I say, I race this car every week, usually more than once. We do everything in our power to provide the best customer experience, and that includes all reasonable tuning part at an affordable price, or maximizing durability when needed. Also, please keep in mind this is a competition racing platform, and some expense is required for additional tuning items, especially if you like to keep all the options handy.
#3164
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
I understand what you are saying. I used to work in a foundry and know the costs that go into molded parts vs. machined parts (I work at a machine shop right now). The cost to set up tooling for a machined part along with the cost of the time to machine the part usually equals out with the cost of a mold and the ability to mass produce the plastic part. I did some number crunching several times in school for that, comparing how much it would cost per part to machine vs. to mold it. However, you do offer the caster blocks in aluminum and molded and there are several different ones (0*, 3*, 5*, 10*). I know all four are available in molded and not sure which ones are available in aluminum. I know it's a racing platform and there are certain expenses involved, but keeping $100+ in option parts in your box "in case" you need them really isn't economical. I know you guys do lots of testing and what not, but each track is different and a lot of times requires minor tweaks to set up. I'm running into the same issues with my 8ight. Sometimes I would like to have 10* or 12* of castor, and sometimes I would like to have the stock castor. But having the ability of going to the 10* or 10* requires me to have $100+ worth of parts sitting in my box not getting used all the time. I simply don't have the cash to do that. On the grand scheme of things, $100 worth of parts is about 1/6th the cost of the 8ight new, but $100 worth of parts for the 22T is 1/3 the cost of the whole car, for two parts (if you go with both aluminum spindles). That's a bit excessive. I've already put $60 worth of aluminum parts on the truck out of necessity (front and rear camber blocks). I'm just saying that I understand the costs that go into developing molded and machined parts. I think if you offered the part in molded plastic you would probably sell a lot more because there's a lot of people out there who will be very reluctant to buy the aluminum part unless they are breaking spindles all the time. And even if that's the case (as it was with my 22 buggy), the cheaper solution to that was the threaded king pin.
Is there a reason why you guys didn't go with an adjustable rear hinge pin brace like on the 1/8th scales? I know size is probably a factor.
Is there a reason why you guys didn't go with an adjustable rear hinge pin brace like on the 1/8th scales? I know size is probably a factor.