55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
04-14-2010, 01:16 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
AE bleeder caps
I was going to upgrade to the bleeder caps. How do these exacctly work and why are they a lot better? Thanks in advance.
04-14-2010, 02:17 PM
New Bleeder Caps
They do not perform any better than the standard caps , however they make bleeding the shocks easy and are a big convenience...
04-14-2010, 02:21 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
04-14-2010, 02:25 PM
Fill shock with oil
Burp air under piston
extend the shock shaft & piston to the bottom
Install cap
Unscrew bleed screw
Push shaft & piston to the top
Tighten bleed screw
done
Burp air under piston
extend the shock shaft & piston to the bottom
Install cap
Unscrew bleed screw
Push shaft & piston to the top
Tighten bleed screw
done
04-14-2010, 04:08 PM
Here's how I build my shocks with the new bleeder caps.
-Fill the shock full. Make sure to remove all air bubbles.
-Then extend the shock shaft all the way out (piston down).
-Add a few more drops so that the oil looks like a contact lens (convex).
-Screw the cap onto the body and remove the bleeder screw.
-Push the shock shaft upward into the body to the point you want it to rebound back out once the screw is installed. The further in you push the shock shaft, the smaller the amount of air in the shock cap. Less air equals less rebound. And vice versa.
-Tighten the screw and you're finished.
I aim for about 30-40% rebound. I've found that building the shocks with zero rebound can cause the shock to have "reverse rebound" (shaft pulls into the body) at full extention. I always check to make sure the shaft doesn't try to pull itself back into the body. As this can lessen "pack" and can make for a slightly "softer" dampening feel than I want.
Is there only one right way to build shocks? NO. Different strokes for different folks. This is just what has worked for me.
Build on!!
-Fill the shock full. Make sure to remove all air bubbles.
-Then extend the shock shaft all the way out (piston down).
-Add a few more drops so that the oil looks like a contact lens (convex).
-Screw the cap onto the body and remove the bleeder screw.
-Push the shock shaft upward into the body to the point you want it to rebound back out once the screw is installed. The further in you push the shock shaft, the smaller the amount of air in the shock cap. Less air equals less rebound. And vice versa.
-Tighten the screw and you're finished.
I aim for about 30-40% rebound. I've found that building the shocks with zero rebound can cause the shock to have "reverse rebound" (shaft pulls into the body) at full extention. I always check to make sure the shaft doesn't try to pull itself back into the body. As this can lessen "pack" and can make for a slightly "softer" dampening feel than I want.
Is there only one right way to build shocks? NO. Different strokes for different folks. This is just what has worked for me.
Build on!!
04-14-2010, 05:57 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Tip:
If you guy are after a consistent rebound, clip one of the RPM up travel clips onto the shock shaft first before compressing the shaft. This will help with an even rebound.
If you guy are after a consistent rebound, clip one of the RPM up travel clips onto the shock shaft first before compressing the shaft. This will help with an even rebound.
04-15-2010, 06:56 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
FT B4 roller
I have a FT B4 roller for sale in the for sale forum if anybody is interested let me know
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post7275381
Also.....does anyone have an extra set of FT AE shocks for the B4 that they want to sell????
Thanks everyone
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post7275381
Also.....does anyone have an extra set of FT AE shocks for the B4 that they want to sell????
Thanks everyone
04-15-2010, 09:05 AM
just be happy a rebuild kit for rc10 shocks are so cheap.
No I buy a new kit every year. I like a fresh car that's why. I'm not no gods gift to rc, And Im not saying that every one likes me but I do know alot of people and they like me pretty good. I'm not an ass hole but when people say If your shocks don't leak your seals are bad. Sorry but that's crap. I don't care who you are.
04-15-2010, 09:37 AM
Shock Advise
Just because your shocks do not leak does not mean your shocks are in good condition ..
Swollen seals grip* the shock shaft and steal your traction..
Seals are usually swollen and are in need of replacement about two weeks time..
Replace the seals sooner if you did not coat the seals with Ae's Green Slime...
No brand available is immune to seal swelling due to the silicon oil we used inside the shocks...
* Striction
Swollen seals grip* the shock shaft and steal your traction..
Seals are usually swollen and are in need of replacement about two weeks time..
Replace the seals sooner if you did not coat the seals with Ae's Green Slime...
No brand available is immune to seal swelling due to the silicon oil we used inside the shocks...
* Striction
04-15-2010, 11:57 AM
I found the Tekin Rs makes a good difference running in spec SCT 17.5 classes. The right tuning and gear can help alot. A must have for 17.5 classes. 17.5 gets a big jump in power with this Esc on a track with smaller jumps. It only lacks on short runups to big jumps. Its nice having improved low speed torque from the low motor timing, yet have the timing kick in later for speed. And being to adjust when and where and how much timing gets put in is too cool.
In 13.5 buggy I noticed improved bottom end torque which gave me wheelspin. maybe improved midrange and I could gain some ground on old esc cars. But it really wasn't a big advantage. With the right gear the old esc's keep up fine. I'm going to try playing with this more, but I'm seeing lesser gains in 13.5 than 17.5 over my competition. But any gain....is still a plus.
I've been setting up my cars to run on boost with no turbo. Rarely do I add turbo, and only for the straight. And you still have to use the proper gear. I'm only a tooth lower on the pinion than I would be with an older esc. The Esc gets warm if your undergeared with my RS. Otherwise it never gets warm at all. The fancy Esc's are a bit overrated for offroad. Its a bigger deal onroad (everything is).
10.5 and faster I've had the best luck in dual mode. If I needed more power/speed in mod I'd change motors not esc settings. So with an 8.5, I have no use for Turbo or boost. I need neither more torque or topend in mod.
The RS is nice and smooth in duo mode with a gentel throttle tip in. And thats nice for low grip high horspower cars. Much more gental than the MM esc.
In 13.5 buggy I noticed improved bottom end torque which gave me wheelspin. maybe improved midrange and I could gain some ground on old esc cars. But it really wasn't a big advantage. With the right gear the old esc's keep up fine. I'm going to try playing with this more, but I'm seeing lesser gains in 13.5 than 17.5 over my competition. But any gain....is still a plus.
I've been setting up my cars to run on boost with no turbo. Rarely do I add turbo, and only for the straight. And you still have to use the proper gear. I'm only a tooth lower on the pinion than I would be with an older esc. The Esc gets warm if your undergeared with my RS. Otherwise it never gets warm at all. The fancy Esc's are a bit overrated for offroad. Its a bigger deal onroad (everything is).
10.5 and faster I've had the best luck in dual mode. If I needed more power/speed in mod I'd change motors not esc settings. So with an 8.5, I have no use for Turbo or boost. I need neither more torque or topend in mod.
The RS is nice and smooth in duo mode with a gentel throttle tip in. And thats nice for low grip high horspower cars. Much more gental than the MM esc.
04-15-2010, 12:56 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (29)
Hey guys looking for a starting point on my gearing for a 10.5 novak. Im gonna be running on a very loose track (sandy). My current set up on my 17.5 is 72/36. This is my first time changing motors and not looking to over heat
And not sure if that gearing would be appropriate. Thanks.
And not sure if that gearing would be appropriate. Thanks.
04-15-2010, 01:04 PM
I like 25/78 for a 10.5 Novak.
04-15-2010, 01:32 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (29)
Cool man thanks Ill try something around that today. BTW whats your heat?
04-15-2010, 01:36 PM
This shock conversation has went on forever, and I'm not an expert but if you coat the silicon o-ring with a petroleum based grease like green slime it's going to swell the orings. This is the same reason you don't use petroleum based grease on real cars/trucks brake parts (pin boots, piston boots etc.) because it swells the rubber and then locks the caliper. This is just my thoughts but if you coat a silicon rubber o-ring with grease it's going to swell even faster. To slow the swelling down you have to use silicon grease.
04-15-2010, 02:47 PM
I run on a high grip small track (60x40'), after 10 minutes you can still touch the motor. The heat thing isn't much of a factor with faster BL motors since they start to rev better than 13.5 and 17.5's.