x60Driver

iTrader: (4)

I've ran the GT2 c hubs on my T4 and still do. Also never broken one just worn out.

not home

iTrader: (23)

1/4 oz? i think thats what i was told
just dont hit things, you'd probably be better off getting some gt2 30d blocks.

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

I've ran the lunsfords for over a year without a single one breaking

The best driver always wins.... your local fast guys could continue to woop you with a traxxas BL system, get over it.

pakk

iTrader: (80)

What does the b4.1 have that the B4 doesn't have?

Bobby Z

iTrader: (4)

B4.1 has new shock towers and new battery strap. It also has gear diff instead of ball diff. And the front suspension and steering bellcranks are different material that is softer

pakk

iTrader: (80)

How much of that can be upgraded on the b4?

Dlewis4

iTrader: (148)

....all of it

teambighead

I can't say I agree with any of this, aside from the fact that the black ball stud is shorter than the standard one.

Moving the axle up or down changes your roll center. Generally when you raise the axle, the car will cause the car to 'whip' more mid way through the corner. While lowering the axle will give the car more of a stable feeling, however, lower tends to carry a bit less corner speed.

As for axle height changing your camber... How is this possible? It's still on the same angle as your vertical hinge pin. To make the camber sweep differently through out your suspension travel, you would have to make a change to your camber link location, or balls stud heights. The axle height has nothing to do with this.

Usually, the more forward on the ackerman rack you are, the more aggressive the car is entering the corner, while moving the ackerman location back gives more steering in the middle and exiting sections of the corner.

The axle height does effect how the car lands a jump, lower axle height is more stable on landing, but can cost you corner speed.


Weight on the nose of the car can numb up your initial steering, this can calm down a twitchy car and make it easier to drive. It also will give you more on power steering, as the car will not be able to transfer the weight of the front as easily. Be careful when adding weight to the nose as this will decrease your amount of forward bite. Too much weight on the nose can get you into trouble quickly.

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

Chris - dont argue with George Cherry, he knows EVERYTHING.......... but how to make the A main ohhhhhhhhh boo blip

birdie_in_texas

iTrader: (8)

Wow..now that is some cold-blooded shizzle right there..

not home

iTrader: (23)

yes, we all know he knows EVERYTHING

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

George will get over it quick, and probably flip some $hit my way.... no worries

Wild Cherry

Blockhead

Not the most current source of info maybe ....
but,
where most of my info came from . My mistake not accounting the vertical kingpin ball stud use on the b-3 ....:

Quote from vRc-10 B-3 tuning guide pg 4


"Regarding white spacers on the kingpin top or bottom:Moving the king pin up raises the amount of camber gain in the ft tires,giving the car a more forgiving feel.
Moving the kingpin down will make the buggy slighty more difficult to drive."




Another source , I wish I used instead...

Rc10.com tech tips

"When you raise the blocks, the front of the car drops. This will give you better steering into the corners and less coming out.
Its would be just the opposite if you lower the steering blocks."

teambighead

You must not remember how the b3 front end went together compared to the new car.

On the b4, the shims are between the castor block and the steering knuckle. When you move the shims, the axle height changes, low/middle/high.

On the b3, the shims are on the top and or bottom of the castor block, they have no effect on the axle high. But rather the ballstud height of the kingpin ball stud.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Man, I can't imagine rebuilding shocks every 2 weeks, let alone every month, just to stay on top of it. I just periodically flip my cars over and feel how much air is in the shocks by tapping all the arms down a bit. If there's one that is low, leaking, or sticky, then they get serviced. I check ride height, tires, foam feel, diff smoothness, and slipper bite (i.e. re-sand pads) every night and service as needed, but generally speaking, I don't service *anything* on my electric 1/10 off road cars on a schedule -- just when it needs it.

One of the most critical things I see folks do that erks me is ignoring their servo savers. You'll never find me gluing one down.