birdie_in_texas

iTrader: (8)

shoe goo..

BrianTx01

iTrader: (5)

I just bought a brand new factory team T4. I am recently coming back from a couple years off from the hobby and I haven't been able to get my XXX-T MF to hook up. Back many years ago I had great success with a T3 so I thought I would give it a try. I notice that many of you are using various aluminum hubs and pivot blocks. Since this stuff is kind of expensive where should I start out? I was thinking the rear arm mounts because this is where I used to have trouble with my old B2s and B3s. Also, has anyone used the RPM arms and pivot blocks for the T4? I remember I once had a RPM front end kit on a old RC10 pan and that thing was bullet proof. I once was running modified dirt oval and got hack on the straight, send over the wall, and hit a pivot table head on. The marshall picked it up and put it back on the track and I finished the race. Now I race offroad on an indoor, medium to hard clay surface. I am going into a losi dominated track so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Wild Cherry

start with the best set-up* for your track conditions , most track conditions do not need the alluminum hubs and such..


*
http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups.php





B-4 set-up I have been using and like .....


http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups/b...ampr3_2010.pdf

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

Same thread and stud size. Just drop them in.

wayboarder

iTrader: (14)

Thats the new one thats been gettin real popular down here. Weight placement is crucial with this setup.

If you dont have the new rear tower, you have to add the fourth hole to run that setup.

BrianTx01

iTrader: (5)

I am not sure if I would know if I had the new shock tower. I have heard it did not get a new part number.

Does anyone have his truck setup? I would imagine it would be a little different than the buggy set up?

x60Driver

iTrader: (4)

The best i found was to stop crashing. JC bodys are thick and strong.

Bobby Z

iTrader: (4)

That setup is definietly different than others I have seen lately. A few questions though for everyone to discuss and give their 2 cents on.

Why the non-milled motor plate?
Why plastic hinge pin brace and plastic bulkhead?
And why back to running weight in front of transmission and in the rear triangles again?

This can not qualify as a 'light weight' setup any longer and instead is now the new standard for 'Lipo Setup' that still uses weight to better balance the car?

Bob

rc10 ryan

iTrader: (11)

the plastic parts are probably used for flex but the non milled motor plate is just random

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Could be a way to add additional weight.

071crazy

iTrader: (8)

the non-milled plate flexes less than the milled one. More consistent gear mesh, probably more important with mod motors.

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Hey guys, I have a race ready lipo set-up Factory Team B4 for sale if anyone is interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ns-extras.html

not home

iTrader: (23)

big deal, not going to do anything having little slots in a piece of metal and not.

rcman1993

iTrader: (33)

Just thought that someone here would want to buy this :
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...y-team-b4.html
price is negotiable to a point.

Wild Cherry

* weight
*more flex,less weight =more steering
* more traction,rotation & balance & stability..
* more like a lite set-up designed for high traction conditions.....