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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 03-08-2010, 08:43 PM
  #11821  
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Originally Posted by yourstruly22 View Post
Dose any one have some tips for making my wing on my t4 last as long as my body. I know better driving but what else.

shoe goo..
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:59 PM
  #11822  
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I just bought a brand new factory team T4. I am recently coming back from a couple years off from the hobby and I haven't been able to get my XXX-T MF to hook up. Back many years ago I had great success with a T3 so I thought I would give it a try. I notice that many of you are using various aluminum hubs and pivot blocks. Since this stuff is kind of expensive where should I start out? I was thinking the rear arm mounts because this is where I used to have trouble with my old B2s and B3s. Also, has anyone used the RPM arms and pivot blocks for the T4? I remember I once had a RPM front end kit on a old RC10 pan and that thing was bullet proof. I once was running modified dirt oval and got hack on the straight, send over the wall, and hit a pivot table head on. The marshall picked it up and put it back on the track and I finished the race. Now I race offroad on an indoor, medium to hard clay surface. I am going into a losi dominated track so any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:02 PM
  #11823  
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start with the best set-up* for your track conditions , most track conditions do not need the alluminum hubs and such..


*
http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups.php





B-4 set-up I have been using and like .....


http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups/b...ampr3_2010.pdf

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 03-08-2010 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:59 PM
  #11824  
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
Sorry for my ignorance, but if I go with a lungsford ball studs are they all the same thread size and ball size? Or will I need new ball cups as well? Thanks

Same thread and stud size. Just drop them in.
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:13 PM
  #11825  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
b-4 set-up I have been using and like .....


http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups/b...ampr3_2010.pdf

Thats the new one thats been gettin real popular down here. Weight placement is crucial with this setup.

If you dont have the new rear tower, you have to add the fourth hole to run that setup.
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:25 AM
  #11826  
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I am not sure if I would know if I had the new shock tower. I have heard it did not get a new part number.

Does anyone have his truck setup? I would imagine it would be a little different than the buggy set up?
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:03 AM
  #11827  
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Originally Posted by yourstruly22 View Post
Dose any one have some tips for making my wing on my t4 last as long as my body. I know better driving but what else.
The best i found was to stop crashing. JC bodys are thick and strong.
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Old 03-10-2010, 01:28 PM
  #11828  
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Originally Posted by wayboarder View Post
Thats the new one thats been gettin real popular down here. Weight placement is crucial with this setup.

If you dont have the new rear tower, you have to add the fourth hole to run that setup.
That setup is definietly different than others I have seen lately. A few questions though for everyone to discuss and give their 2 cents on.

Why the non-milled motor plate?
Why plastic hinge pin brace and plastic bulkhead?
And why back to running weight in front of transmission and in the rear triangles again?

This can not qualify as a 'light weight' setup any longer and instead is now the new standard for 'Lipo Setup' that still uses weight to better balance the car?

Bob
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Old 03-10-2010, 03:33 PM
  #11829  
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the plastic parts are probably used for flex but the non milled motor plate is just random
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Old 03-10-2010, 04:03 PM
  #11830  
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Originally Posted by rc10 ryan View Post
the plastic parts are probably used for flex but the non milled motor plate is just random
Could be a way to add additional weight.
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:18 PM
  #11831  
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the non-milled plate flexes less than the milled one. More consistent gear mesh, probably more important with mod motors.
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:20 PM
  #11832  
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Hey guys, I have a race ready lipo set-up Factory Team B4 for sale if anyone is interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ns-extras.html
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:24 PM
  #11833  
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Originally Posted by 071crazy View Post
the non-milled plate flexes less than the milled one. More consistent gear mesh, probably more important with mod motors.
big deal, not going to do anything having little slots in a piece of metal and not.
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:41 PM
  #11834  
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Just thought that someone here would want to buy this :
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...y-team-b4.html
price is negotiable to a point.
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:19 PM
  #11835  
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Originally Posted by Bobby Z View Post
That setup is definietly different than others I have seen lately. A few questions though for everyone to discuss and give their 2 cents on.

Why the non-milled motor plate?
Why plastic hinge pin brace and plastic bulkhead?
And why back to running weight in front of transmission and in the rear triangles again?

This can not qualify as a 'light weight' setup any longer and instead is now the new standard for 'Lipo Setup' that still uses weight to better balance the car?

Bob

* weight
*more flex,less weight =more steering
* more traction,rotation & balance & stability..
* more like a lite set-up designed for high traction conditions.....

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 03-10-2010 at 07:31 PM.
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