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Old 01-24-2010, 07:54 PM
  #11116  
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Originally Posted by spierski0313
Also another question, what do you guys use for limiters on the inside of the shock? O-rings? Plastic bushings? And another thing, are the bleeder caps really that beneficial? Is there any kind of bladder you can get for t4/b4 shocks like 1/8 scale?
Definitely pick up some of the bleeder caps. They are actually better than the bladders because the bladder can tear and cause poor handling. The bleeder caps allow you to get the shocks exactly the same every time you rebuild them. Consistency is never overrated!
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:14 PM
  #11117  
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Thank you guys for the quick replies One last question, where do you get the different size shock pistons?
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:23 PM
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AE sells the pistons as a set (4 of each size, 3 sizes) for a few bucks. Any racing oriented shop should have them.

For limiters, AE also sells plastic .030" spacers. These are what you want to use. They won't mark up your shock shafts.
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:32 PM
  #11119  
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Originally Posted by spierski0313
Thank you guys for the quick replies One last question, where do you get the different size shock pistons?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX2602&P=OW
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Old 01-25-2010, 05:28 AM
  #11120  
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Default my factory team t4

this is my t4 10.5 novak ex with sintered rotor,xbr sport speed control,6500 hard case max amps lipo,dx3s radio. t4's really kick butt
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-rc10t4-039.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-rc10t4-026.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-rc10t4-032.jpg  
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:32 AM
  #11121  
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Hello all, well after 10 years of no electric racing I am looking at getting back into it. I am down to either a b4 or losi xxx cr buggy. Can anyone give me an honest comparison between the two ? A lot of the locals at the track I will be running at say the losi is the car to beat. I always had an AE back in the days and had great luck with them, especially in the durability department. This is why I would like to go AE again but the B4 is claimed to be very twitchy and edgy. Any input? Ps, I will be racing stock buggy class with 2s lipos.
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:36 AM
  #11122  
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B4 is generally faster on high-grip tracks where it's steering and corner speed are an advantage. The Losi is usually more stable at the expense of corner speed. The car will steer but loses momentum mid-turn (I don't know if the latest CR setups are better). If you're on a rougher or lower bite track the Losi can be easier to drive and faster because of it. While I drive a B4, I've always said that I wished Losi would make it. The XXX seems to wear better and is easier to service (fewer bolts to get the tranny out, much better/simpler shocks).

My opinion..
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:53 AM
  #11123  
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as some1 who has 2 of each right now. they both have their tradeoffs agreed. granted i like b4's lack of eclips. honestly i find that i get both cars down to around the same laptimes regardless. losi is easier to drive but slower, b4 is reverse. i'm down around the pt where i know i can go quicker but its more in what i'm doin/not doin that is decisive factor right now.

R
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Old 01-25-2010, 12:33 PM
  #11124  
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hey guys my t4 is on the way and i was wondering what is the height and width of the battery box? im trying looking to get some yeah racing 5200 30c bullet connector packs but i want to be certain that they will fit.
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Old 01-25-2010, 01:36 PM
  #11125  
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Originally Posted by not home
5.5?! holy crap!
DID I SAY 5..... I meant 7.5 but what should i do haha
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:37 PM
  #11126  
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Looking for some help on front camber link settings.

1-A seems to be the typical setup. Add washers for more corner entry steering and less corner exit steering. Remove washers for opposite effect. You can also shorten or lengthen the camber link on the tower or on the caster block to have a much bigger impact on the steering compared to changing washers.

But what about moving the link to 2-B instead of 1-A? The link would be the same length but moved closer to the wheel both on the tower and the caster block. How would the car react to this change?


I guess I would be interested in learning what would happen if a similar change is made to the rear link. 1-B is standard but what about 2-B or 2-C or 1-A?
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Old 01-25-2010, 03:46 PM
  #11127  
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? the stock ball cups are finally starting to wear out on my t4 and should be replaced. will the rpm ones be a good replacement/upgrade or is there some others better??
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Old 01-25-2010, 03:50 PM
  #11128  
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Has anyone tried the new T4.1 and B4.1 yet?
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Old 01-25-2010, 03:53 PM
  #11129  
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Originally Posted by offtraxx
? the stock ball cups are finally starting to wear out on my t4 and should be replaced. will the rpm ones be a good replacement/upgrade or is there some others better??
JConcepts are great quality!
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:07 PM
  #11130  
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Default Removing quick change hubs

I feel like I must be missing something obvious, but how do you get the pin out of the quick change rear hubs on the T4 to take them off? Maybe mine got bent a little bit, but I can't get them out...
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