55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
10-20-2009, 07:54 AM
#9888
Medium to low bite clay. Gold bar codes are the fast tire if that tells ya anything.
10-20-2009, 08:09 AM
#9889
[QUOTE=wayboarder;6495051]Alright I couldnt find it.
Hope he doesnt get mad haha... and if Brent is reading this, You guys need to start paying that kid. He wanders to the track almost everyday that I can see and Steven and his pops helps EVERYONE, with almost anything RC.
This is for clay(on gold bar codes) but Ive used it at a few other tracks and its worked great
Front.
30wt, #1 Pistons, Brown Springs, screwed out 2 turns.
Shocks: middle on tower, outside on arm.
Camber link: inside on tower w/2 spacers under ball stud inside on Caster Block
30 Degree Caster Block, middle axle height.
2 bump steer spacers
Black ball studs on steering rack
24MM ride height
Rear:
25wt, #2 pistons, Green springs, 1 limiter inside shock.
#3 on tower(whatever the furthest inside is without using the Custom 4th hole), inside on arm.
Camber Link inside on carrier with 3 washers, Middle on B44 Hubs.
Hubs in middle
2* anti Squat
23mm ride height (I go for 23 and a 1/4 but thats nitpicking)
Weight: 1 Oz in front of Tranny, .5 Oz in rear packets (1/4 in each)
Add weight evenly on battery to take yourself just barely over 1500g's
[QUOTE]
This is almost exactly the old B4 World's setup (from Italy) except that setup called for 1* of antisquat. Higher bite conditions called for heavier rear oil. This setup is good with nimh weight, not so good down at 1500g. Most of the successful setups before lipo were close to this.
Hope he doesnt get mad haha... and if Brent is reading this, You guys need to start paying that kid. He wanders to the track almost everyday that I can see and Steven and his pops helps EVERYONE, with almost anything RC.
This is for clay(on gold bar codes) but Ive used it at a few other tracks and its worked great
Front.
30wt, #1 Pistons, Brown Springs, screwed out 2 turns.
Shocks: middle on tower, outside on arm.
Camber link: inside on tower w/2 spacers under ball stud inside on Caster Block
30 Degree Caster Block, middle axle height.
2 bump steer spacers
Black ball studs on steering rack
24MM ride height
Rear:
25wt, #2 pistons, Green springs, 1 limiter inside shock.
#3 on tower(whatever the furthest inside is without using the Custom 4th hole), inside on arm.
Camber Link inside on carrier with 3 washers, Middle on B44 Hubs.
Hubs in middle
2* anti Squat
23mm ride height (I go for 23 and a 1/4 but thats nitpicking)
Weight: 1 Oz in front of Tranny, .5 Oz in rear packets (1/4 in each)
Add weight evenly on battery to take yourself just barely over 1500g's
[QUOTE]
This is almost exactly the old B4 World's setup (from Italy) except that setup called for 1* of antisquat. Higher bite conditions called for heavier rear oil. This setup is good with nimh weight, not so good down at 1500g. Most of the successful setups before lipo were close to this.
10-20-2009, 08:29 AM
#9891
Take a look there these are very good carbide balls. it will tell you the size.
10-20-2009, 08:31 AM
#9892
I run a diff setup than every1 else. But today Im going to try those 2 setups you gave me and Put on the AE shocks to see how it drives. I just hate these Shocks as they are shit!!
My question to most Racers and People who have had the B4.... What makes the car want to spin after landing the Jump? And also when I am on the straight and hit the gas. It just wants to hook one way.
10-20-2009, 08:37 AM
#9893
Alright I couldnt find it.
Hope he doesnt get mad haha... and if Brent is reading this, You guys need to start paying that kid. He wanders to the track almost everyday that I can see and Steven and his pops helps EVERYONE, with almost anything RC.
This is for clay(on gold bar codes) but Ive used it at a few other tracks and its worked great
Front.
30wt, #1 Pistons, Brown Springs, screwed out 2 turns.
Shocks: middle on tower, outside on arm.
Camber link: inside on tower w/2 spacers under ball stud inside on Caster Block
30 Degree Caster Block, middle axle height.
2 bump steer spacers
Black ball studs on steering rack
24MM ride height
Rear:
25wt, #2 pistons, Green springs, 1 limiter inside shock.
#3 on tower(whatever the furthest inside is without using the Custom 4th hole), inside on arm.
Camber Link inside on carrier with 3 washers, Middle on B44 Hubs.
Hubs in middle
2* anti Squat
23mm ride height (I go for 23 and a 1/4 but thats nitpicking)
Weight: 1 Oz in front of Tranny, .5 Oz in rear packets (1/4 in each)
Add weight evenly on battery to take yourself just barely over 1500g's
Lets see... Plastic chassis, Battery forward. He uses heavy Checkpoint 4900/5400 batteries.
Where I derive from his is that I took the 1 oz out from in front of the tranny and put it on the battery hold down inline with the weight in the pockets. It seemed to get rid of my cars tendency to pendulum swing into turns and made a more consistant rotation IMO. Im running 72/30, to move the motor forward also. The wing cut also makes a difference as well on how much high speed steering is needed if your running the JC bodys. More high speed steering = B44 with about 1/2 inch lip on the back. Less steering, more stable rear(tends to push)= JC 6.5 inch wing with 1/2 inch lip.
Its a really neutral feeling car that isnt twitchy and rotates very consistantly without oversteering and the biggest thing is its very STABLE. If i missed anything let me know.
Hope he doesnt get mad haha... and if Brent is reading this, You guys need to start paying that kid. He wanders to the track almost everyday that I can see and Steven and his pops helps EVERYONE, with almost anything RC.
This is for clay(on gold bar codes) but Ive used it at a few other tracks and its worked great
Front.
30wt, #1 Pistons, Brown Springs, screwed out 2 turns.
Shocks: middle on tower, outside on arm.
Camber link: inside on tower w/2 spacers under ball stud inside on Caster Block
30 Degree Caster Block, middle axle height.
2 bump steer spacers
Black ball studs on steering rack
24MM ride height
Rear:
25wt, #2 pistons, Green springs, 1 limiter inside shock.
#3 on tower(whatever the furthest inside is without using the Custom 4th hole), inside on arm.
Camber Link inside on carrier with 3 washers, Middle on B44 Hubs.
Hubs in middle
2* anti Squat
23mm ride height (I go for 23 and a 1/4 but thats nitpicking)
Weight: 1 Oz in front of Tranny, .5 Oz in rear packets (1/4 in each)
Add weight evenly on battery to take yourself just barely over 1500g's
Lets see... Plastic chassis, Battery forward. He uses heavy Checkpoint 4900/5400 batteries.
Where I derive from his is that I took the 1 oz out from in front of the tranny and put it on the battery hold down inline with the weight in the pockets. It seemed to get rid of my cars tendency to pendulum swing into turns and made a more consistant rotation IMO. Im running 72/30, to move the motor forward also. The wing cut also makes a difference as well on how much high speed steering is needed if your running the JC bodys. More high speed steering = B44 with about 1/2 inch lip on the back. Less steering, more stable rear(tends to push)= JC 6.5 inch wing with 1/2 inch lip.
Its a really neutral feeling car that isnt twitchy and rotates very consistantly without oversteering and the biggest thing is its very STABLE. If i missed anything let me know.
10-20-2009, 08:38 AM
#9894
We run losi Pink tapers in the Rear and Front. But a few track locals have changed to ribbed.
I run a diff setup than every1 else. But today Im going to try those 2 setups you gave me and Put on the AE shocks to see how it drives. I just hate these Shocks as they are ****!!
My question to most Racers and People who have had the B4.... What makes the car want to spin after landing the Jump? And also when I am on the straight and hit the gas. It just wants to hook one way.
I run a diff setup than every1 else. But today Im going to try those 2 setups you gave me and Put on the AE shocks to see how it drives. I just hate these Shocks as they are ****!!
My question to most Racers and People who have had the B4.... What makes the car want to spin after landing the Jump? And also when I am on the straight and hit the gas. It just wants to hook one way.
You need to fix your language ..
The shocks are really good, if you are having trouble just ask ...
A tip for you
Try moving the rear hub back into the middle of the rear arm if you are already forward all the way ..This will help landings with a turn...
The reason the car is hooking going onto the straight can be many things . Look for more traction , a better tire , lighter rear oil or spring ...
10-20-2009, 09:10 AM
#9895
You will need 12 balls
Fred
10-20-2009, 09:25 AM
#9896
I'm sitting in class bored as all get out lookin around on my blackberry, anyways.
Check your rear hub bearings if its hooking on acceleration or landing. Its been the case everytime my car starts doing that. The bearing just disentegrates. And as wild cherry says, move the rear hubs to center.
Check your rear hub bearings if its hooking on acceleration or landing. Its been the case everytime my car starts doing that. The bearing just disentegrates. And as wild cherry says, move the rear hubs to center.
10-20-2009, 09:27 AM
#9897
AE Is Killer Of All......
We run losi Pink tapers in the Rear and Front. But a few track locals have changed to ribbed.
I run a diff setup than every1 else. But today Im going to try those 2 setups you gave me and Put on the AE shocks to see how it drives. I just hate these Shocks as they are shit!!
My question to most Racers and People who have had the B4.... What makes the car want to spin after landing the Jump? And also when I am on the straight and hit the gas. It just wants to hook one way.
I run a diff setup than every1 else. But today Im going to try those 2 setups you gave me and Put on the AE shocks to see how it drives. I just hate these Shocks as they are shit!!
My question to most Racers and People who have had the B4.... What makes the car want to spin after landing the Jump? And also when I am on the straight and hit the gas. It just wants to hook one way.
Shocks are very good if done right,also with the New shocks caps they will even be better! Happy Building! Take Your Time!
