55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
06-14-2009, 06:20 PM
#8221
those damn shock perches, i forgot bout those. thx a ton!!! the shocks are not stickin, they behave and well actually (i know the whole moan/groan over AE shocks). i will do those test to sort out where i am. but rememberin those unlowered perches is the key. goin on my next order for sure.
thx again, keep em up front cuz you know if AE wins the worlds, the b5 will sit on cliff's shelf for another 2yrs.
R
thx again, keep em up front cuz you know if AE wins the worlds, the b5 will sit on cliff's shelf for another 2yrs.
R
06-14-2009, 09:06 PM
#8223
06-14-2009, 09:41 PM
#8224
The difference between the good drivers and the slower drivers is going to be much greater in mod than in stock. Motoring up and having tons of power may gain you a tenth or so on the straight. That's not where the true driver uses the extra power. It's how they use that power in the infield and over the jumps that separates the men from the boys. That's where the second or more a lap that a good mod driver will gain over a stock racer who's running mod. Running a slower class, cutting lines does become more important, but throttle control goes out the window. And doing both is what makes a real driver. Anyone can run around the track at full throttle for most of the lap and cut corners. A real driver can handle twice the power, cut the same lines, and use the extra power coming out of and between corners and use that power to clear obstacles the slower cars can't to cut time off their laps. When you go to a track where the stock guys are running faster laps than the mod guys, those guys shouldn't be running mod. They obviously can't use that extra power and it's slowing them down. But put Pudge or Mayfield (real drivers) on that same track with a stock motor and then a mod motor, I guarantee they'll be faster with a mod.
06-15-2009, 07:29 AM
#8225
The difference between the good drivers and the slower drivers is going to be much greater in mod than in stock. Motoring up and having tons of power may gain you a tenth or so on the straight. That's not where the true driver uses the extra power. It's how they use that power in the infield and over the jumps that separates the men from the boys. That's where the second or more a lap that a good mod driver will gain over a stock racer who's running mod. Running a slower class, cutting lines does become more important, but throttle control goes out the window. And doing both is what makes a real driver. Anyone can run around the track at full throttle for most of the lap and cut corners. A real driver can handle twice the power, cut the same lines, and use the extra power coming out of and between corners and use that power to clear obstacles the slower cars can't to cut time off their laps. When you go to a track where the stock guys are running faster laps than the mod guys, those guys shouldn't be running mod. They obviously can't use that extra power and it's slowing them down. But put Pudge or Mayfield (real drivers) on that same track with a stock motor and then a mod motor, I guarantee they'll be faster with a mod.
Exactly what i was thinking, but i couldnt have said it better myself.
06-15-2009, 08:46 AM
#8227
Brents B-4 set-up
Dup
06-15-2009, 08:50 AM
#8228
Brents B-4 set-up
New subject !!!
I had the chance to test the new set-up posted on Rc10.com of Brents...
I found the set-up seems to be designed for very high traction conditions .
such as
wet clay .....
If you ever have to race where some are using Slicks but threads are also working ?
This set-up may be just the ticket as the Lite set-up those not perform all that well under those conditions...
At Trcr in Tacoma WA the set-up deliever a bit less traction & steering compared to the lite set-up....
Not the best for this time of the year to race with as it is dry now . In the winter when the track has a lot more moisture ?
I would think Brents set-up will perform really great ...
I had the chance to test the new set-up posted on Rc10.com of Brents...
I found the set-up seems to be designed for very high traction conditions .
such as
wet clay .....
If you ever have to race where some are using Slicks but threads are also working ?
This set-up may be just the ticket as the Lite set-up those not perform all that well under those conditions...
At Trcr in Tacoma WA the set-up deliever a bit less traction & steering compared to the lite set-up....
Not the best for this time of the year to race with as it is dry now . In the winter when the track has a lot more moisture ?
I would think Brents set-up will perform really great ...
06-15-2009, 09:09 AM
#8229
New subject !!!
I had the chance to test the new set-up posted on Rc10.com of Brents...
I found the set-up seems to be designed for very high traction conditions .
such as
wet clay .....
If you ever have to race where some are using Slicks but threads are also working ?
This set-up may be just the ticket as the Lite set-up those not perform all that well under those conditions...
At Trcr in Tacoma WA the set-up deliever a bit less traction & steering compared to the lite set-up....
Not the best for this time of the year to race with as it is dry now . In the winter when the track has a lot more moisture ?
I would think Brents set-up will perform really great ...
I had the chance to test the new set-up posted on Rc10.com of Brents...
I found the set-up seems to be designed for very high traction conditions .
such as
wet clay .....
If you ever have to race where some are using Slicks but threads are also working ?
This set-up may be just the ticket as the Lite set-up those not perform all that well under those conditions...
At Trcr in Tacoma WA the set-up deliever a bit less traction & steering compared to the lite set-up....
Not the best for this time of the year to race with as it is dry now . In the winter when the track has a lot more moisture ?
I would think Brents set-up will perform really great ...
06-16-2009, 09:07 AM
#8231
06-16-2009, 10:08 AM
#8232
That setup looks a lot more like the "old" setups for nimh battery weight with the added weight in front of the transmission, front shocks to the outside of the arm. Interesting piston selections, I wonder how much of a difference those made?
06-16-2009, 10:12 AM
#8233
I builted one 4 hole piston and compared it to the standard 2 hole side by side .
I found the 4 hole to be a bit softer in damping .....
I found the 4 hole to be a bit softer in damping .....
06-16-2009, 12:29 PM
#8235
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
this should settle your gearing problems. Select your car and motor then type in the spur and pinion your using and it will tell you how off you are on gearing>>>>> http://www.comeseethis.com/gearing/gearing.htm
Thanks but i have tried that and it didnt work for me, i have found a gearing that has worked for me now but it is aperently way undergeared but my system likes it so i like it
Email me (my address is on the page) with any suggestions or if you want me to add another vehicle.
Also, as the page states, I will be moving it soon to http://www.fastcats.ca as I won't be renewing my hosting package.
Thanks,
Craig