55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
03-30-2009, 03:24 PM
#7247
Tech Apprentice
Does the Novak Havoc speed control fit under the B4 body Ok?
03-30-2009, 04:26 PM
#7248
03-30-2009, 05:44 PM
#7249
Tech Initiate
If you are temping on an a silver part of the can, your reading will be extremely skewed (thus the high endbell temp and low can temp). The best thing to do is stick a patch of black electrical tape on the can or use a black center ring if you have a novak motor.
The sensor harness does not produce any heat. What you are trying to prevent is overheating the rotor which would demagnetize it and this usually happens when the can of the motor is over 200 degrees F.
The sensor harness does not produce any heat. What you are trying to prevent is overheating the rotor which would demagnetize it and this usually happens when the can of the motor is over 200 degrees F.
I appreciate your input, but I think I'll 'er on the side of caution and keep the endbell about 165.
I don't want to melt the sensor down; let alone the winds.thanks for the reply.
03-30-2009, 06:41 PM
#7250
I'm having a lot of problems with my T4. I live in the Netherlands and there are not
many people who know how to solve problems with Associated cars.
I'll try to give you as much as info so hopefully there is someone who can help me.
I drive a RC10T4 FT with a Mamba Max ESC with the 7700kv motor (87T spur and 15t pinion).
I also use a 7.4V 4000mAh LiPo.
The setup is right out of the box.
I use team Associated shock oil 40wt and blue springs at the rear and silver at the front.
The camber is set with a RPM camber gauge to 1 negative on the rear wheels, the front is neutral.
I'm only driving on asphalt (low grip) and i use Proline Speed Hawgs on Proline Holeshot rims.
The problem :
It's almost impossible to drive with this car!!!!
When i go to full throttle the car immediately makes a spin to the left.
When i give 20 or 30% of throttle and then after a few seconds go to full throttle the car makes a spin to the left.
When i gently build up speed till 50% and then go to full throttle the car accelarates perfectly and doesn't spin.
It always spins to the left, never to the right!!!
I tried to adjust the diff so that it operates smoothly but then it's only slipping.
So now it doesn't slip anymore but it is a bit grinding when i turn one of the wheels.
The slipper is slipping for 2 meters (6 or 7 feet), so that should be okay.
The LiPo is in the middle of the chassis (one foam block in the front and one at the rear).
I also used the anti- rollbar but that didn't work at all!!
Is there someone who can help me or can give me some tips, because the cars is not fun to drive with (only at topspeed) ??
Could it be a balance problem?? The ESC (Mamba Max 71 gram) is on the left and the reciever (Spektrum SR3000 11.3 gram) on the right.
So the left is 60 grams "heavier", could that be a major problem??
Thanks for your help!!
If you need some more info please ask!!
note : I hope my English is good enough for you to understand it!!
regards,
Nils
many people who know how to solve problems with Associated cars.
I'll try to give you as much as info so hopefully there is someone who can help me.
I drive a RC10T4 FT with a Mamba Max ESC with the 7700kv motor (87T spur and 15t pinion).
I also use a 7.4V 4000mAh LiPo.
The setup is right out of the box.
I use team Associated shock oil 40wt and blue springs at the rear and silver at the front.
The camber is set with a RPM camber gauge to 1 negative on the rear wheels, the front is neutral.
I'm only driving on asphalt (low grip) and i use Proline Speed Hawgs on Proline Holeshot rims.
The problem :
It's almost impossible to drive with this car!!!!
When i go to full throttle the car immediately makes a spin to the left.
When i give 20 or 30% of throttle and then after a few seconds go to full throttle the car makes a spin to the left.
When i gently build up speed till 50% and then go to full throttle the car accelarates perfectly and doesn't spin.
It always spins to the left, never to the right!!!
I tried to adjust the diff so that it operates smoothly but then it's only slipping.
So now it doesn't slip anymore but it is a bit grinding when i turn one of the wheels.
The slipper is slipping for 2 meters (6 or 7 feet), so that should be okay.
The LiPo is in the middle of the chassis (one foam block in the front and one at the rear).
I also used the anti- rollbar but that didn't work at all!!
Is there someone who can help me or can give me some tips, because the cars is not fun to drive with (only at topspeed) ??
Could it be a balance problem?? The ESC (Mamba Max 71 gram) is on the left and the reciever (Spektrum SR3000 11.3 gram) on the right.
So the left is 60 grams "heavier", could that be a major problem??
Thanks for your help!!
If you need some more info please ask!!
note : I hope my English is good enough for you to understand it!!
regards,
Nils
03-30-2009, 06:48 PM
#7251
Fantom 17.5 in a B4 and I'm running a 72/32 and it comes off about 140 on a small high traction track. Fantom has a great gearing chart for brushless on their website. Just go to products and look under brushless motors and then brushless motor parts. It's a great starting point if your not sure.
03-30-2009, 07:28 PM
#7252
Fantom 17.5 in a B4 and I'm running a 72/32 and it comes off about 140 on a small high traction track. Fantom has a great gearing chart for brushless on their website. Just go to products and look under brushless motors and then brushless motor parts. It's a great starting point if your not sure.
03-30-2009, 07:30 PM
#7253
BTW guys, if you are still running the AE shocks you are SERIOUSLY missing out. After numerous build issues, due to poor shock body tolerance in the seal pack area, I bit the bullet and put RB5 shocks on it. OMG, what a difference. I'm sold, thats for sure. My T4 and B44 will have a set on them ASAP, also.
03-30-2009, 07:56 PM
#7254
BTW guys, if you are still running the AE shocks you are SERIOUSLY missing out. After numerous build issues, due to poor shock body tolerance in the seal pack area, I bit the bullet and put RB5 shocks on it. OMG, what a difference. I'm sold, thats for sure. My T4 and B44 will have a set on them ASAP, also.
03-30-2009, 08:01 PM
#7255
03-30-2009, 08:17 PM
#7256
The silvers are too long but, they look like they just might work for the rears on my T4. Bonus!
Second, I used all the Kyosho parts except springs. I am still using the AE black/brown combination and AE shock oil's. All it took to get the lengths right was 1mm of internal(rear) and .5mm of external(front) limiting.
Other than that, bolt on and enjoy worry free shocks. It felt damn good to not have to rebuild shocks after this weeks race. Just got done checking them too. No seepage and they feel as good as they did when I built them. I used the regular silver bodies on the front but will build a set of velvet bodies asap.
03-30-2009, 08:19 PM
#7257
First off, ya gotta use the velvet rear shock bodies for the RB5 mid arm kit, in the rear.
The silvers are too long but, they look like they just might work for the rears on my T4. Bonus!
Second, I used all the Kyosho parts except springs. I am still using the AE black/brown combination and AE shock oil's. All it took to get the lengths right was 1mm of internal(rear) and .5mm of external(front) limiting.
Other than that, bolt on and enjoy worry free shocks. It felt damn good to not have to rebuild shocks after this weeks race. Just got done checking them too. No seepage and they feel as good as they did when I built them. I used the regular silver bodies on the front but will build a set of velvet bodies asap.
The silvers are too long but, they look like they just might work for the rears on my T4. Bonus!
Second, I used all the Kyosho parts except springs. I am still using the AE black/brown combination and AE shock oil's. All it took to get the lengths right was 1mm of internal(rear) and .5mm of external(front) limiting.
Other than that, bolt on and enjoy worry free shocks. It felt damn good to not have to rebuild shocks after this weeks race. Just got done checking them too. No seepage and they feel as good as they did when I built them. I used the regular silver bodies on the front but will build a set of velvet bodies asap.
03-31-2009, 04:25 AM
#7259
Shock boots?? I raced all day Saturday and just cleaned the car last night to find not one speck of dirt accumulated at the seal caps. I opened up the shocks and checked the fluid, you could still see the pistons through the fluid just the same as when I built them. Not sure how much better you'd want your shocks after a day of racing dirt, indoors.
03-31-2009, 05:17 AM
#7260
Shock boots?? I raced all day Saturday and just cleaned the car last night to find not one speck of dirt accumulated at the seal caps. I opened up the shocks and checked the fluid, you could still see the pistons through the fluid just the same as when I built them. Not sure how much better you'd want your shocks after a day of racing dirt, indoors.
DK