55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
02-24-2009, 09:09 AM
#6976
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
My experience with most factory drivers setups (especially in off road) is that they're usually too hard to drive and/or too much steering. They have the skills to control that much steering where as 99% of the drivers out there can't. Plus if you really want to make sure you're running the exact setup, you need to follow the sheet to a T. But even then there are differences you won't find on a setup sheet.
One thing I've noticed is that is very important to the way the car handles and can be very different between the factory guys setups and pretty much everyone else that you'll never find on a setup sheet is the amount of pack in the shocks. They don't tend to build their shocks with as much pack as a regular racer does. If you have a lot of pack in the car, the car won't bounce or chassis slap as bad when you flat bottom a jump and miss the down side. It'll hit the ground and kind of stick. (because the shocks can't rebound as fast) But it does make the car bounce around in the rough stuff because the suspension can't work as fast. The factory guys are down siding pretty much every jump out there so they can build their shocks with less pack so their suspension can work properly over the rough. I was amazed when I felt Pudge's B44 at OCRC one day. There was almost no pack in the shocks at all. But that thing went through the rough sections of that track like nothing I'd ever seen.
One thing I've noticed is that is very important to the way the car handles and can be very different between the factory guys setups and pretty much everyone else that you'll never find on a setup sheet is the amount of pack in the shocks. They don't tend to build their shocks with as much pack as a regular racer does. If you have a lot of pack in the car, the car won't bounce or chassis slap as bad when you flat bottom a jump and miss the down side. It'll hit the ground and kind of stick. (because the shocks can't rebound as fast) But it does make the car bounce around in the rough stuff because the suspension can't work as fast. The factory guys are down siding pretty much every jump out there so they can build their shocks with less pack so their suspension can work properly over the rough. I was amazed when I felt Pudge's B44 at OCRC one day. There was almost no pack in the shocks at all. But that thing went through the rough sections of that track like nothing I'd ever seen.
Originally Posted by VVRC
So my question is, since I am a newbie (relatively) and I have a new FT T4 all set to the "Cavalieri 2007 Midwest Offroad Championships" specs. Should I worry about changing anything from this setup, until I have learned to consistently drive this one setup.
In other words, drive this setup until I am comfortable with it......???
In other words, drive this setup until I am comfortable with it......???
02-24-2009, 11:06 AM
#6977
the best advise I can give to new guys on driving and setups... just find a setup you can drive consisteny, that is the key. Stock setup, pros, it don't matter just find one that is easy to drive/balanced. THEN forget about setup and practice as much has you can until you can do full runs w/ little to no mitakes consistently. the hot setup is useless if you are still tapping pipes/flippin on your lid. get consistent. ...then and only then should you care about setup.
so get a consistent setup that is eary to drive. learn to drive well, then start learning setups & what setup changes do what...
my 2¢
so get a consistent setup that is eary to drive. learn to drive well, then start learning setups & what setup changes do what...
my 2¢
02-24-2009, 01:35 PM
#6978
the best advise I can give to new guys on driving and setups... just find a setup you can drive consisteny, that is the key. Stock setup, pros, it don't matter just find one that is easy to drive/balanced. THEN forget about setup and practice as much has you can until you can do full runs w/ little to no mitakes consistently. the hot setup is useless if you are still tapping pipes/flippin on your lid. get consistent. ...then and only then should you care about setup.
so get a consistent setup that is eary to drive. learn to drive well, then start learning setups & what setup changes do what...
my 2¢
so get a consistent setup that is eary to drive. learn to drive well, then start learning setups & what setup changes do what...
my 2¢
Good advice^^^
I drove my B4 and T4 for 3 months on the stock set ups. Racing with them twice a week and practicing getting consistently smoother and faster on the track. This has allowed me to begin to learn what I need from the buggy and truck to keep me improving. The most important thing for me continues to be track time.
02-24-2009, 06:28 PM
#6979
Great Advice, thanks for the replies......#1 Lesson: Consistency first, Setups second.
#2 Lesson: The Cav setup is good, but so may be the stock setup.....Drive them both and see which is better for me, than stick with it for a while until #1 Lesson falls into place.
And I may or may not want to get stiffer springs in front or thicker shock oil for less steering.
Sound right?
#2 Lesson: The Cav setup is good, but so may be the stock setup.....Drive them both and see which is better for me, than stick with it for a while until #1 Lesson falls into place.
And I may or may not want to get stiffer springs in front or thicker shock oil for less steering.
Sound right?
02-25-2009, 06:43 AM
#6980
uh, I get in a hurry sometimes... EASY, not eary! 
While you're focusing on learning consistency...lines and smooth inputs on the radio should be a key area to focus on, as well as learning how different inputs effect the handling in various types of corners.
02-25-2009, 11:11 AM
#6981
the best advise I can give to new guys on driving and setups... just find a setup you can drive consisteny, that is the key. Stock setup, pros, it don't matter just find one that is easy to drive/balanced. THEN forget about setup and practice as much has you can until you can do full runs w/ little to no mitakes consistently. the hot setup is useless if you are still tapping pipes/flippin on your lid. get consistent. ...then and only then should you care about setup.
so get a consistent setup that is eary to drive. learn to drive well, then start learning setups & what setup changes do what...
my 2¢
so get a consistent setup that is eary to drive. learn to drive well, then start learning setups & what setup changes do what...
my 2¢
02-25-2009, 11:18 PM
#6982
T4 shocks
I have a quick question:
I was talking with a local "old timer" who has been racing a while and he said he was surprised associated still uses 2 hole pistons in their shocks. He said the associated guys "used" to use the Losi 3 hole pistons in their associated shocks. Ok, just wandering, what losi pistons and where? I got a set of 55's and 56's for a starting point. Would I set them up like a losi? Such as 56's up front and 55's in the rear, or vise a versa?
Thanks!
PS: To the "newbie" questions, I say learn to drive it first, then worry about the setups. Cause you can get a headache very fast worrying about setups! Have fun and learn to drive it at first with a VERY basic setup to start off with!
I was talking with a local "old timer" who has been racing a while and he said he was surprised associated still uses 2 hole pistons in their shocks. He said the associated guys "used" to use the Losi 3 hole pistons in their associated shocks. Ok, just wandering, what losi pistons and where? I got a set of 55's and 56's for a starting point. Would I set them up like a losi? Such as 56's up front and 55's in the rear, or vise a versa?
Thanks!
PS: To the "newbie" questions, I say learn to drive it first, then worry about the setups. Cause you can get a headache very fast worrying about setups! Have fun and learn to drive it at first with a VERY basic setup to start off with!
02-26-2009, 04:39 PM
#6983
When i was testing my b4 in a parking lot with dirt hawgs on the rear, i mangled the shit out of my light weight diff outdrives. Does anyone make a stronger diff outdrive for the b4?
i am running a mamba max 5700 with a yeah racing 5000 25c lipo.
any ideas?
i am running a mamba max 5700 with a yeah racing 5000 25c lipo.
any ideas?
02-26-2009, 07:03 PM
#6986
I have a quick question:
I was talking with a local "old timer" who has been racing a while and he said he was surprised associated still uses 2 hole pistons in their shocks. He said the associated guys "used" to use the Losi 3 hole pistons in their associated shocks. Ok, just wandering, what losi pistons and where? I got a set of 55's and 56's for a starting point. Would I set them up like a losi? Such as 56's up front and 55's in the rear, or vise a versa?
Thanks!
PS: To the "newbie" questions, I say learn to drive it first, then worry about the setups. Cause you can get a headache very fast worrying about setups! Have fun and learn to drive it at first with a VERY basic setup to start off with!
I was talking with a local "old timer" who has been racing a while and he said he was surprised associated still uses 2 hole pistons in their shocks. He said the associated guys "used" to use the Losi 3 hole pistons in their associated shocks. Ok, just wandering, what losi pistons and where? I got a set of 55's and 56's for a starting point. Would I set them up like a losi? Such as 56's up front and 55's in the rear, or vise a versa?
Thanks!
PS: To the "newbie" questions, I say learn to drive it first, then worry about the setups. Cause you can get a headache very fast worrying about setups! Have fun and learn to drive it at first with a VERY basic setup to start off with!
02-26-2009, 08:43 PM
#6987
steering slop
i have a bit of steering slop due to the bushing in my b4 can i replace them with bearings if so what size will i need thanks 
02-27-2009, 03:43 AM
#6990
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
T3 gearing
Sorry guys, I cant find a T3 thread. Now for my question.
New to offroad, what fdr should be used for a T3 with 6.5 novak. I am guessing it should be the same as the t4.
Track one... long straights (up to about 150 ft) with some tight infield corners.
Track two...120ft straight, verytight infield
Thanks in advance
Terry
New to offroad, what fdr should be used for a T3 with 6.5 novak. I am guessing it should be the same as the t4.
Track one... long straights (up to about 150 ft) with some tight infield corners.
Track two...120ft straight, verytight infield
Thanks in advance
Terry
Last edited by Team Ash; 02-27-2009 at 04:03 AM.