Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

i recently heard the opposite, someone care to confirm before misinformation gets spread.
I always thought losi was thicker but i heard ae is thicker lately and now i don't know what to believe anymore.

CraigV

iTrader: (1)

Where did you get these? I didn't know they were available yet.

speedsterblade

I've been told... losi 25wt is approximate to AE 27.5 wt(if they made it). So I guess losi wt is thicker.

CCristo

iTrader: (56)

According to this site the Losi oil is thinner. The comparison chart is 1/3 the page down.

If some one had Associated 25WT oil in their shocks, they would need to run 27.5WT losi oil for the same feel.

teambighead

Losi oils are about 2 - 2.5wt thicker...

Run them back to back sometime, it's noticable.

It also gives you a good option of half weights if you are not up for mixing oils.

Midnight

iTrader: (87)

Thanks, so if the setup calls for asc 35 that would be equal to losi 32.5. Also could you explain what effect does the 4th inner hole on the rear shock causes. I just purchased a new truck and was wanting to drill out the 4th hole before I start to put the truck together.

Limerick91

Hi, im having problems with the steering on my B4,
When im going quite fast and i turn about half way to the right or left the buggy just spins 180 degrees, the same with if i am going and push the trigger back and into reverse a bit. I know that this can cause the car to spin but surely it can turn in a decently small size space without just spinning?
Is there anything i would need to check?

Thanks.

d4man

iTrader: (5)

Maybe try changing to a less aggressive front tire. Check your servo saver and make sure it is tight.

got2havit

i had asked the ae guys before and they told me that losi is 2-2.5 wt lighter than ae oil.but then maybe i was informed.

on another topic which is better to run more toe in the rear for the light weight setup on the inside or just putting more toe at the hubs.

associatedrocks

iTrader: (9)

I had the same problem and switched to Ryan Cavaleri's set-up that he used in 2006 on a hard, smooth clay track. Brown front springs, green rear, 35 wt. front, 25 wt. rear. Losi pink's on both front and rear... stock losi foams in the front and trinity firm (not ultra firm) in rear.... made the b4 as low as possible.

Depending on what esc/motor combo you are using if your drag break is set too high every time you try to make that tight turn off of the straight you can run into similar problems that you are having. We have two Team Losi drivers at our track and one AE driver and I spoke with all three at once and they said to lower my drag brake to 20%.... 25% at the most....at times I have to touch the brake right before the corner off of the straight but my 180's are now a thing of the past.

Limerick91

I've got some brown springs, ill need some green springs though, i'll definately try what you said and as for reducing my drag brake it is set very high at the moment so i can see that being part of the problem.

Thanks for the help.

teambighead

The 4th hole basicly adds to your tuning choices. With all the cars getting lighter due to the lipo batteries this extra hole can be useful. Laying the shocks down on the shock tower will let the car roll around more side to side and squat more under accelleration. Normally with a heavier car, the weight would give you this on it's own, but this will help the suspension transfer the weight as if you had a heavy car.

As of yet, this is only used on the 2wd, not the truck.

What surface are you running on? With what tires?

Has this always been a problem with the car? Or is this something new? Is something possibly binding up on the car? Perhaps a seized bearing?

Also, as "associatedrocks" said, it could be a radio setting.


While changing the hub and pivot block to gain a higher amount of rear toe may look like they are doing the same thing, they are changing more than the just the toe.

When you change the hub, it only changes the toe of the axle, which on it's own can shorten the car up, but not much, maybe 0.010". To change the toe in at the hub carrier you are only making a change to the toe angle, and not effecting the rest of the cars geometry

However, changing the toe at the pivot block can change the wheelbase in amounts up to about 0.060", which is a huge amount if you think about it... This amount is even larger as the arm gets longer, such as on a truck.

Also, when changing the sweep of the arm from a higher degree pivot, you are changing the relationship angle of the CVD to the outdrive, which changes the bind factor and the plunge angle through out the whole travel of the shock, which has an effect on the traction of the car. Also the shock locations will be slightly skewed from the origional location, causing a change in your shock angle in relation to your shock tower.

Keep in mind, if you are running the Light Weight set up you should not be adding any weight to the car. The AE car with Reedy 5000 and LRP motor comes in right at 1500-1510 grams. We no longer need to add weight behind the tranny. If you are to add weight to compensate for a lighter battery, it should be placed under the battery with a weight plate.

Also, from my experience a plastic arm mount always provides more grip, along with absorbing ruts and bumps better.

rob martin

iTrader: (66)

Looking for some good advice on gearing since i've gone brushless. This is for a tight technical track/ Setup is Novak gtb's with a 6.5 in my truck and a 10.5 in my 2wd buggy

For my truck i plan on gearing a 6.5 at 18/87
For my buggy i plan on gearing a 10.5 at about 23/81

Sound about right??

CraigV

iTrader: (1)

Use this as a gearing guide.

rob martin

iTrader: (66)

link didnt work.