redman

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, perfect!

B-Main

iTrader: (3)

Exactly. The first couple of months that I was doing RC I was in the same boat. Slow down and learn how the car reacts, work on driving skills. After a couple weeks of doing this (1-2 race days per week) I would go several race days without breaking. Now (1 year later) I rarely break a part on my buggy and am still competative. As for aluminum. The only thing aluminum parts do is cause other more expensive parts to break. The amount of force you are putting on the buggy in a crash isn't changing, the aluminum just transfers the force to another part of the buggy. I would rather break a caster or arm than a chassis.

JR007

+1 on slow is fast too. I haven't been racing long, and I had a 19 turn in the car, now I have a 12 turn. It is a WORLD apart in terms of power. The 19 turn was good as I COULDN'T go too fast, the 12 turn doesn't have that problem!

In the first year I had my car, I only broke towers when I landed on the roof. I did learn to drive properly though, with less power. I only ever broke parts when I did something stupid.

Also, the wide bumper from RPM is fantastic. Protects the entire front end

Wes Briscoe

iTrader: (7)

Another thing that I did not see mentioned is buy the plastic replacement parts and not the carbon. The carbon parts will break much easier.

It's a lot like flying helicopters...there is a direct and somewhat proportional suckage to breakage ratio. The less you suck the less you break. As your skill improves the car feels more and more durable. My first day at the off road track cost me about $20 in parts...next few times less and less, I haven't broke anything in awhile.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Using GT2 parts where available works wonders for durability too. The C-hubs and steering knuckles drop right on and are much beefier.

+1 on using plastic over carbon parts. Use the cheaper and stronger plastic parts.

071crazy

iTrader: (8)

Try using the cavalieri truck setup on associated's website. Follow each part of the setup exactly, and you will have a truck that is pretty good on a lot of tracks. Make sure you have the 1.5 oz of weight that everyone installs in front of the gearbox and in the rr of the chassis. You'll also want about 3 oz of additional weight to account for the lighter battery.

midwestcajun

Could you tell me what your throttle curve would be like on a mm setup if you were running a tight high grip technical track? I let someone else try mine out last night and he mentioned that it definitely needed to have more power throughout the range. I currently had have it set low input until you get to about 50-60 percent. Would it be a good idea to have it almost a straight linear 45 degree increase? I have a smc 5000 28c lipo. Also you mentioned putting the timing on low...where would you have punch control set at as well? Thanks.

javacrazy

iTrader: (20)

Thanks to everybody for your advice. Thanks x 1000. I'll keep on practicing and drive slower. I drive so slow that I'd torpedo into the hill.... ha ha ha
I guess, that's part of learning, too.

Shortyt4

hello all, another new guy,
I just bought a T4 RTR,didn't know any better, queston is can I make this truck into a ft truck .....also will the setups off of the AE site work for this truck. any advice on this truck would be helpful as I am brand new to RC racing.

DirtyDog3375

iTrader: (37)

Just wanted to know if there are any new lipo setups that don't need to add all the weight back in?

I have tried the one already mentioned here a few pages back, and its ok, but on our rough and loose tracks its just not consistent enough and tends to bounce around over the ruts and rough sections.

I see at CRCRC that both Brent's T and Cav cars are both using the softest spring (black) in the rear and seems to have no weight added on the battery bar (leading me to think they are running them light). Can anyone help out?

I was thinking of adding a few weights (14 grams) to the front bulkhead, middle pods around servo and in rear behind battery.

What do you think?

d4man

iTrader: (5)

Edit: taken care of, thanks for the awesome support AE....

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

It'll be interesting to see what they publish for setups. AE guys have been working with a no-weight added setup to run the cars very light. There are differences in the front end with these as well as some difference in the rear shock positions from what I've seen.

Wild Cherry

ft
shock mount
#1 hole & inside on arm
1 degree camber
.060 under ball stud, #1 hole & A hole (camber link)

rear
shock mount
drill 4th hole on rear tower , inside on arm
#1 hole & .030 under stud, B hole on rear hub (camber link)

bump steer spacer = .060
steering knuckle = middle
wheel base= middle
2 degree anti squat

ft shock
#2 piston , 030 internal limiter, 25w, brown spring, thread bottom shock eyelet all the way

rear shock
#2 piston, 030 internal limiter,25w, black spring

Ft Tires
Jconcept bar code(Gold) rear insert , contour outside & inside edges
Rear Tires
JConcept bar code(Gold) standard insert , no contour

battery forward
Reedy 5000 Li-Po

ride height
rear arm dog bone level
ft arm level

remember , remove all added weight including 1.5oz behind rear tower



Super Fast Set-Up , must do

chewiefttc4

iTrader: (27)

Hell ae was adding weight even when they were running nimh.

Wild Cherry

The added weight was to help off-set the weight of a 4000 Nk Ml pack...