dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

I was just wondering if other people had trouble breaking those blue titanium turnbuckles from the FT kit?

I bought some Lunsford Super Duty (3.5mm?) and hope they hold up. I have yet to get through an entire run w/o something breaking on the T4. Granted I am running 2S LiPo with a MM 7700. I do not try to abuse the truck but something always has to break. I have only ran through full charge a few times--only once through both batteries that I own.

I have had to replace everything with aluminum, titanium and carbon fiber. Believe it or not I have never broken the carbon shock towers. I usually just like to go fast in open areas. Took it on the golf course the other night and after a few passes the T4 would go no more. I picked up the T4 and had snapped, not bent, 2 turnbuckles--one front and one rear.

Am I supposed to just live with this frustration--is it just part of the hobby to break something nearly every run? I have never jumped the thing more than 1.5 feet!

My T4 is now a $1000 work of art but have a hard time enjoying it when things bend or snap constantly. I guess I could always slow down but that is lame--especially when I am not even wrecking or bashing hard.

Should I start investing in a 1/8th scale electric? Can those take a little speed without breaking every 5-minutes?

Thanks.

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

Trust me guys, all you need is Traxxas slipper pegs, a 72 tooth Kimbrough, and a front wheel bearing. You should be able to run at least a 72/33 combo i would think, possibly higher. I run 72/30 with no issues in my RB5 which has the same FDR.

Tubaboy

iTrader: (9)

Carbon isn't better for bashing. It is stiffer so it is more likely to break.

Best advice, I can give you is dump the aluminum. It adds weight, and just moves the stress to other parts of the t4. But when you hit stuff, yeah you're gonna break, especially if you are hitting stuff hard enough to snap titanium Turnbuckles on a regular basis. Granted, my T4 only sees the track, but on the track I have hit all sorts of things and never broke a turnbuckle.

I have seen plenty of the standard steel black ones bend/break though.

jkas10

iTrader: (123)

Or, if you want to get real close in gearing and buy only one part, buy the 76 spur for the Kyosho ZX5. You can use the associate slipper pads with just a bit of a trimming. You need to run a 3/16th drill bit, dremel or file through the metric size center shaft hole just a bit to slide freely over the slipper shaft. You can then run a 34 pinion (and maybe a 35 - I haven't tried. I have my motor out right now. I will see if the 35 fits and post my findings later.) without any other modifications. You can get to 5.6/5.8 final gear ratio using all the standard B4 parts with no other modifications. https://www.amainhobbies.com/advance...06-76&x=8&y=10

GMS_Racing

iTrader: (65)

Your gear is crazy..i run a 17/87 on my T4 with a mamba 6900 and its great. Its the gearing i got off the AE site and it pulls hard outa corners and never winds out.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

I would have to say that the aluminum is there b/c all else will not hold up! I hit the smallest rock and there goes the rear A-arm. Split. If I hit a hole small enough to upset the T4 and then there goes some titanium "strong stuff ."

I do not race and really, who cares about the weight of aluminum with brushless + LiPo? Probably helps to put some weight back in the thing!

I am not to crazy about the carbon stuff but that is what the FT kit came with. Kinda hard to find the regular plastic stuff unless you wait for it to pop up on ePay. I just replace it with the aluminum after I break a carbon piece twice.

Still have not broken the front carbon A-arms or shock towers so far! Maybe I am asking too much out of a 45 - 50mph R/C car. I just know that people are converting 1/8th scale to brushless and heard they are built like tanks!

Z-Fire

thanks guys I'll try to pick a combo that will fit but still give the lowest possible FDR

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

how exactly does this work? i mean, ive never heard of this so can you explain more?

also, whats the target FDR for 17.5 in a B4 and a T4?

if you want a bash-worthy stadium truck i suggest the e-firestorm then. It takes some tuning but it can be raced too but stock it has a gear diff which is perfect for high power brushless and i hear they are tough. If all else fails....theres alwaysa stampede or a rustler for bashing lol.

schmelme

iTrader: (13)

I think you are probably excpecting to much from your t4. It was never really designed to bash with. It does a great job getting around a groomed racing surface. Jumps arent an issue when on a race track. In the back yard might be another story. Get and e-revo or electric 1/8 for your bashing pleasure.

air8

iTrader: (7)

I have yet to see a truck stand up to the MM 7700. Losi, Traxxas, AE, HPI. That motor is simply too much power off-road. I watched a buddy blow 5 axles in his Losi XXXT-CR one right after the other cause of the 7700. He kept dialing down the power on the laptop till the truck would stay together through the straight away.

His truck would wheely so hard that when the truck came back down off the body dragging the tires would plant again and SNAP, another axle gone.

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

Good to know! The T4 is really my first off-road in over 10-years and of course I went straight for the brushless and LiPo. I can tune down my driving style a bit and just understand that parts will break. I finally went to a track yesterday and amazingly nothing broke!

Truly has been an experience with over heating and breakage. I probably have one of the meanest T4s out there--I even found some titanium universals that fit. I am simply moving around the weak link in all the suspension parts which is an interesting lesson. I had a similar situation with my on-road in which $1000 later everything can hold up to the power of bushless + LiPo--except for the tires. I might be there with the T4 finally!

Cheers!

carbon madness

iTrader: (2)

I never had any issues with the 7700 set-up in my T4 when I was using that ststem. The only reason I don't use it in there now is because it was hard to drive on the track with it when the traction is low. That, and I had the esc get too hot

jkas10

iTrader: (123)

FYI - The 35 pinion does fit nicely with the 76 kyosho spur mentioned above. In my truck and buggy, with the 17.5, I am aiming for a Tire/Gear ratio of about 1.9xx. With the buggy (smaller tires) that is a FGR of about 5.6; and truck (larger tires) FGR is about 6.4.

I am not a pro, just a sportsman guy. I have not won any races with this combo, but it's hard to win on your roof The vehicles are sure fast on the track and don't overheat.

I had read in the thread about the slipper elimator that many of the stock buggy guys in the A main were running FGR as low as 4.8. So I am pretty conservative compared to those guys.

astroboy403

iTrader: (1)

i have been wanting to get a 2WD for some time now. i was set on a B4 but now I'm 50/50 on a T4 or B4. which one do you guys think is better, and why. i already have a B44 and love it. i also have driven both T4 and B4, some what like the T4 because it soaks up the bumps and easy to drive(also fun), but i have a bunch of B4 rear tires and like how it is challenging to drive. please help me!!

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

B4 dude.