55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
08-30-2008, 04:13 AM
#5237
I've ran on-road and off-road. The biggest transition: DIRT! Your car will get dirty so you'll have to take it apart and clean it more often. No more spray with the air hose and you're done. You gotta take it apart and clean it after every visit to your local dirt track...
08-30-2008, 04:34 AM
#5238
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The Apocalypse suburb of Robina
Posts: 1,738
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
08-30-2008, 11:10 AM
#5239
I have run both on road and off. In my experience, Off road is FAR less expensive! Since often your off road tires can be reused for more then one weekends worth of racing, sometimes several weekends. There is also the batteries, which are less critical in off road, although still important, they don't have to be the absolute top shelf to compete.
LiPos have leveled this a little, but on road cars are melting them or the speed control now that they don't dump!
I think on road for me was more fun....at first. Then it got ridiculous to try and compete, consuming all your free time and making your credit cards hurt, to compete for a trophy! It just stopped being fun at that point. Gas racing is just about at the same peak now as well, so we'll see what happens there.
The B4 FT will be a great car, since it is 2wd, easy to work on and inexpensive parts. It can be made for high speed with a hairy high end brushless setup, using a normal set up like an LRP 9.5, great for it's obvious intention...racing!
Very Good all around first electric car!
Good luck!
Here is a pic of just completed B44 and B4 bodies!
...Jim
W.E.D.
LiPos have leveled this a little, but on road cars are melting them or the speed control now that they don't dump!
I think on road for me was more fun....at first. Then it got ridiculous to try and compete, consuming all your free time and making your credit cards hurt, to compete for a trophy! It just stopped being fun at that point. Gas racing is just about at the same peak now as well, so we'll see what happens there.
The B4 FT will be a great car, since it is 2wd, easy to work on and inexpensive parts. It can be made for high speed with a hairy high end brushless setup, using a normal set up like an LRP 9.5, great for it's obvious intention...racing!
Very Good all around first electric car!
Good luck!
Here is a pic of just completed B44 and B4 bodies!
...Jim
W.E.D.
08-30-2008, 07:27 PM
#5241
The rear chassis plates seem to be weak, as I was driving smoothly, and I was landing right in the sweet spot on the down side of a jump, and the thing just gave way 
. Also the car wasn't bottoming out.
The gears are 48p (64 is used mostly in on-road, and 32 is used in nitro off-road).
FDR is important, but at the same time it is more of a feel as to what you want down the stright, and to clear the jumps with accel, or speed (like with any gear ratio you should be toping out at the breaking point on the stright).
. Also the car wasn't bottoming out.
Originally Posted by hanzo3
how about spur gears? Do u use 64 pitch spur gears or 48? Is FDR more or less important?
FDR is important, but at the same time it is more of a feel as to what you want down the stright, and to clear the jumps with accel, or speed (like with any gear ratio you should be toping out at the breaking point on the stright).
08-31-2008, 03:53 AM
#5242
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
I recently bought 2 T4's used. One is a RTR version and one is a FT. I am keeping the RTR one as its in better shape but what upgrades do I need to pull from the FT before selling it? Other than shocks and turnbuckles. It will be used for a once in awhile races.
08-31-2008, 09:49 AM
#5244
Tech Adept
Don't forget the lightweight outdrives, heatsink motor plate, some more of the alloy (there's a part, forgot the name), and the battery bar.
09-01-2008, 06:50 AM
#5246
THe shocks are a big one too. I would keep the FT car and freshen it up. Nobody is going to want to buy a "down graded" T4.
09-01-2008, 10:30 AM
#5247
Tech Adept
He said "other than the shocks and turnbuckles"...
09-01-2008, 10:57 AM
#5248
I would leave the carbon parts on it, im running a complete plastic car and it works better, less breaking and more traction with the added flex.
09-01-2008, 11:01 AM
#5249
09-01-2008, 09:14 PM
#5250
Here's a question for all the handling experts....
I just recently went LiPO with my B4. Pre-LiPO, the car turned on a dime, and I was very pleased with the setup. However, with the LiPO, and the added weight to compensate for the lighter pack, it has a nasty on-power push. As soon as I let off the throttle/tap the brakes, the nose bites in nicely and turns well. But, if i'm on power at all, the thing pushes something fierce. Any thoughts as to how to correct that?
It might help for a few specifics on my setup:
-1 camber front/rear
30deg. caster
0 to -1deg toe
Trailing front axles
springs: Brown/Silver
Oils: 35/30 I believe...but I'm not 100% sure
Front shocks mounted middle on the tower, and outer on the arm
I'm not sure as to the other mount points without digging a bit. Let me know if I need to get more info.
I just recently went LiPO with my B4. Pre-LiPO, the car turned on a dime, and I was very pleased with the setup. However, with the LiPO, and the added weight to compensate for the lighter pack, it has a nasty on-power push. As soon as I let off the throttle/tap the brakes, the nose bites in nicely and turns well. But, if i'm on power at all, the thing pushes something fierce. Any thoughts as to how to correct that?
It might help for a few specifics on my setup:
-1 camber front/rear
30deg. caster
0 to -1deg toe
Trailing front axles
springs: Brown/Silver
Oils: 35/30 I believe...but I'm not 100% sure
Front shocks mounted middle on the tower, and outer on the arm
I'm not sure as to the other mount points without digging a bit. Let me know if I need to get more info.